Rear hub studs...help!

[Kevsta]

Need to put longer studs on the caterham next week before a trackday (they need to be longer for the track day wheels) and wanted a run down of everything I will need (both tools and new parts)before I do it and also a step by step guide if possible. Anyone had anything go wrong and how long will it take me (I'm ok with a spanner...I'd say inetrmediate, just never done this job before and wanted advice from those that have).

 

Cheers

 

Kev

[timbo]

 

 

Here goes:

 

17mm/19mm socket for wheels (Doh!)

 

41mm socket for hub nuts and a rather long ext bar to remove (220 NM). Watch, the nut threads are handed). You'll need to lock the driveshafts from rotating to acheive this.

 

Remove the calipers (17mm socket/ring spanner) off the ears (don't undo the brake pipes into the caliper, just raise the caliper above the disc and support... there'll be enough flex in the pipe)

 

Slide the disc assembly off the drive shaft spline (may need a puller if your unlucki)

 

Next brute force: essentially a press makes removing the studs quite easy.. they are a tolerance fit with grip splines so will be extremely tight. Otherwise put an old wheel nut fully threaded onto the stud and hammer the bejesus out of it.

 

Once you've sweated buckets refitting.

 

To fit new studs, push them through disc as far as possible. Then get a suitable sized open nut and washer at base tighten the nut onto the stud. When you ratchet up the nut it will pull the stud through the disc. If the stud isn't fully threaded you may have to use a spacer below the tightening nut where the non-threaded part portrudes through the discs face.

 

Refit as dismantled.

 

Good luck

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Emerald Isle's 1st SV 148lbft @ 6091rpm/182bhp @ 6690rpm engineered for low revs

[timbo]

 

That was for the rears:

 

Front is much easier.

 

Remove the lock/split pin from the front hub-nut (pliers)

 

Undo the hub nut and washer (28mm if I'm right? could be wrong)

 

Undo the caliper mounting bolts into the frt upright (17mm) torqued @ 60nm

 

Slide the claiper off the disc and let the caliper support on the braided hose

 

Slide the complete hub assembly/disc off the stub axle (catch the bearings)

 

Undo the disc bolts (8mm allen head, i think torqued to 60nm for ali hub)

 

Remove the disc from the hub assembly

 

Next follow the same principals as before for the rears for stud replacement.

 

Reattach the disc to the hub... make SURE YOU USE LOCKTITE on the 4 allen bolts

 

Then refit the hub assembly to the stub axle. Take care that the bearings are sealed correctly in the hub (you could regrease them while there out)

 

Refit the hub nut & washer. Tighten carefully!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! orthewise you'll overpressurise the bearings or alterantivley the hub will run loose. Generally strong finger tight is the rule, but you can tighten up to the nut to the point the bearings 'lock' then back off the nut 1/2 turn, making sure the hub is running freely.

 

Fit NEW!!!! split pin.

 

Rebolt the caliper (60NM)

 

Done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Emerald Isle's 1st SV 148lbft @ 6091rpm/182bhp @ 6690rpm engineered for low revs

[Graham Perry]

Care with the rears. I have just done mine and discovered that the new studs even though supplied by Caterham did not grip on the splines when we changed them and we had to have a tiny dab of weld applied to the back (head) of each one so they would grip. This isn't common but not completely unknown though, so you might want to keep this at the back of your mind.

[Kevsta]

Excellent...cheers guys!!!!

 

I'll look forward to the 220 nm of torque!

 

Lets hope I don't get too many hickups....though I don't doubt I will!

 

Kev 😬

[MorganMan]

Check the torque stated for rear hub nut, from memory its 200ftlbs considerably more than 220Nm

[Kevsta]

Sorry yes, 200 lb/ft...Basically it FT! My Torque wrench doesn't go that tight so i will have to tighten it to the max on there and then start adding weight to get it to around 200 lb/ft.

 

Kev