Robster Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 About 2 years back I bought, fitted and ran a Lucas competition distributor, ignition amplifier and coil from Roger King. The car has run fine until today. Suddenly, out of the blue, no spark at all. I have voltage to the coil, 12v on both wires running from the amplifier unit to the distributor, the amplifier has just been tested and works, as does the coil. So, has the Hall effect sensor broken in the dizy? (This is the widget that senses the dizy turning), all of the symptoms look like points that are jammed open. I don't know how to test it, spinning the dizy by hand with it all connected up doesn't spark either. One clue is that I noticed this morning, when the car started fine, that the rev counter didn't work, I have voltage to it and all the wires seem to be in place. I am really stumped by this now...any ideas?? To make things even harder, Lucas are no longer in business, so I don't know how/if or where I could get another sensor. Pushrod power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Robster, My Xflow ignition system had a similar failure and It might be just the rotor arm. with the Lucas ignition pack you need a special one. Its quite big and has a funny shape and a diode thingy soldered into it. If you are using the stand small rotor arm it can look fine and work for a while but still give up the ghost for no apparent reason. I will try and get the Lucas code for type right type and post tomorrow. I fitted the correct rotor and it started immediately, hard to come by though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Interesting one this( are you sure about Lucas?). I have a contact number for the guy who makes them. He is an ex Lucas employee who set up on his own. I'll try the number tomorrow, and let you know. If he's still making them he should be able to help. Cheers J&J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Found it!!! Hi, I've just spoke to him, 20:30 hrs. His name is Lional Lawrence,at: LMP Engineering 75 Fabian Cresc. Shirley Solihull, W. Midlands, B90 2AD 0121 745 4305 He's still making them although there is a shortage of parts at the moment. He said he's happy to discuss any problems over the phone, and it would be ok to return it to him for repair if the problem can't be solved by you. Cheers J&J Never throw anything away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robster Posted May 18, 2005 Author Share Posted May 18, 2005 Thanks! I'll phone him tommorow. Not sure about the rotor arm..it doesn't have anything soldered onto it but that isn't the problem as I have no spark at all from the coil! Robin Pushrod power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Keep us informed. Cheers J&J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 Robster, Good luck with sorting this out. Lionel Lawrtence is the man to talk to. Just in case you do need a rotor arm the Lucas code is DRB192C and the part number cast onto the arm is 54400173. and as far as I know my local Lucas outlet 9Chelmsford) is still going strong as of a month ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robster Posted May 19, 2005 Author Share Posted May 19, 2005 I can't get hold of Lionel until Monday. But, after much tea drinkingk, general tyre kicking and though, here's an update.. The Hall sensor IS working, I can get it to open and shut the circuit. There are 12 volts going to it and coming back, this voltage being cut four times per rotation, so that is OK. This send the voltage back to the ignition amplifier via the two wires (blue and red), which in turn has two wires running to the coil, white to coil +, black to coil -. Both of these show 12 volts permanently...this voltage NOT being cut despite the voltage being cut by the hall sensor. I cannot for the life of me work out how the coil goes to earth..as there are no points to earth the current, it must earth through the amplifier..but there is no lead. So, to summarize, the Hall sensor (points) are opening and closing, the coil does not seem to earth. Any ideas...Roger King, if you are reading this, can you remember how the system works??? Car is now moved to the disgrace corner (back of garage, behind MG until I can work this out!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Robster, the coil gets its earth from the module. Cheers J&J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 I did have a Lucas ignition amplifier kicking around in the garage. If you would be interested mail me and I'll see if it is a) still kicking around and b)the right one It was definitely of a type which used hall effect trigger in a Lucas kit. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now