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New build - top wishbone ball joint


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Looking for some reassurance! Started my build today. Trying to torque the top wishbone ball joint. Used the M14 plain nut to tighten the ball joint into the vertical link. Then removed it and added the nyloc. Trying to torque it to 40lb as stated in the manual but keep tightening and not getting a 'click' to indicate I have succeeded. The 3/8" 22mm socket in my Halfords kit is now no good as too much bolt protruding to get a good bite on the nut. Can't use the longer 1/2" socket as no room when I add the adaptor! Does this 'sound' right. Worried I am going wrong somewhere!!
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Is the joint still turning when the nylock is used ? Try retightening with the plain nut to make sure the joint is not turning (tap with a hammer to make sure its seated ). A new nylock of that size can be very stiff to turn. If you still have trouble try tightening onto a plain bolt before using on the ball joint (this puts a thread in the nylon).

If all else fails tighten with a torque wrench onto a bolt held in a vice and gauge the force required. Reproduce this feel on the ball joint and you won't be far out.


Usualy its easier to finaly tighten when the engine is in and the car is on the floor (putting weight onto the joint)


FWIW I always "feel" this joint

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I seem to recall having the same problem getting the torque wrench in with the long reach socket and it the end just made sure it was tight.

I thought that for most of the front suspension fixings you waited until the suspension was loaded with the engine and the wheels on the ground before you did the final torqueing

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Waiting until the weight of the car is on the front suspension only applies to those where there is a degree of movement required during normal use and you don't want to pre-load the bushes i.e. the upper & lower wishbones as they bolt to the chassis.


For the top and bottom ball joints as they sit on taper shafts they can be torqued up at this stage if you want or left to the later stage (when the wheel in on the ground) and a size 11 boot can apply a bit more pressure to stop the ball joint turning 😬






Now the Orange HPC - A 2.0 VX - 😬

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You can get a thing called a crowfoot spannerhere which lets you have an open ended spanner on the end of a torque wrench won't get them at halfauds but a decent tool store will carry them. They do introduce a small error into the torque settings unless you get the hyper expensive facom ones which replace the ratchet section on the facom torque wrenchs


The happy handle made me do it

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