carpmart Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 Hello everyone.... I have a bit of a numpty question here! I am fitting a MK2 escort quick rack to replace an existing 'standard' steering rack in a fisher fury. I have never played with steering racks before and as I start to take this apart I assume that I need a ball joint seperator to remove the track rod end from the steering arm? What about refitting......does the tightening of the bolt where the track rod end goes through the steering arm linkage pop the end back in or do I need a tool for this? Any tips from anyone would be appreciated? Thanks in advance for your help. Harvey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 You need a BJ splitter (Sykes Pickavant, Halfords, about £15/20) or to know the 2 hammer trick. When you put it back together the nut *should* pull it into the taper. However it's a Nyloc nut so you may find that stops turning before the taper goes in far enough to lock up. In this case you won't succeed and the cure is (a) load the suspension to get the taper to lock enough to turn the nut or (b) tighten it up with a plain nut, then remove it and put the Nyloc on. It's an easy enough job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 i discovered a cheap and easy way to remove ball joints, without risking damage by hitting them, and without requiring a splitter. [in most cases] this method worked when i changed my upper wishbones. not sure if it will work with track rod ends, but should. 1) find a decently hefty bolt. 2) cut it down to 'just' the right length to fit between the bottom of your ball-joint [where the lock nut is] and the Hub, or the floor, or whatever is solid and strong directly under the ball joint. 3) fit a nut to the end of your bolt and thread it on until just a few threads are showing through. 4) sit your bolt vertically between your solid object and the bottom of ball joint. 5) start unscrewing the nut from the bolt. 6) the nut will effectively lengthen the bolt... 7) the pressure on the ball joint will cause it to pop out [with a bang!] 8) fall backwards onto the garage floor as all the resistance dissapears from the spanner youve been pulling on... 9) smile at having saved £15 on a splitter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carpmart Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 Granteuk Just you description has had me chuckling away to myself let alone saving £15! I am obviously thick (distinct possibility of being very thick! ) as your instructions just don't make sense to me! Have you a lay person version or have I already had that! 😬 What is the two hammer trick? Thanks Harvey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 glad i made you 😬 harvey... but my idea really does work. i spent AGES hitting my ball joints with a hammer, from all directions in an effort to break them free from the upright tapers. i tried levering them out with big metal poles. i tried hitting the levers with the hammer.... [repeat to fade] after giving up hope, i came up with the bright idea as described above. it really did work, first time, no hassle. except for the big bang and the fall on the floor. go take a look at the front of the car. notice the nut that holds the ball joint in place. see if there is something solid directly underneath - in my case, the hub was under the wishbone ball joint. picture a big bolt wedged vertically between solid object and base of ball joint. when the nut on the bolt is unscrewed, it puts pressure onto the balljoint, forcing it upwards out of the taper. it might take a bit of pressure with a decent spanner on the nut, but it 'should' work. unless the ball joints are knackered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 a couple of decent 'taps' on the upright might help loosen it off first. if anything, track rod ends on a steering rack should be easier than a wishbone ball-joint, due to being much smaller in size, and with less pressure on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owjay Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 fisher fury eh? I helped a mate build one! Whats your spec? His is 1300 xflow (weak) with Escort MkII bits, no doors, faired in headlamps in Gelcoat blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 If you're just changing the rack, leave the track rod ends where they are by unscrewing the steering rods from the rod ends.... Getting there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owelly Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 To employ the 'two hammer method', you need two hammers. One in each hand. Sit cross legged with your feet under the hub. (make sure the vehicle is propped on a rickerty old breeze block/sturdy axle stands), and swing both hammers at the offending item. This is usually the cast that incorporates the taper/tapier/elk. After the first swing you will need to stop and pull the bits of displaced skin from you knuckles due to the fact that it is quite tricky to watch two hammers at once and a wheel arch is full of hard things. The apprentice way is to hold a lump hammer behind one side of the target and thrapse the other side with the non-static hammer. I often use this method due to the simple fact that once I get onto the ground it takes several minute huffing and puffing to get up again to go and find the various splitters that I have. its only a game......... http://daftlardycars.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 the one hammer trick - remove wheel remove or loosen a few turns, the nut holding the taper of the joint into the upright. turn steering wheel until end of arm the track end is bolts to is visible and at the best point to give a heafty crack with a lump hammer - hit the piece the track rod is bolted to - carefully so not to hit the rubber boot on the track rod the shock will normally loosen the taper in one or two hits - it's got to be a decent hit! Some will not like this method - all it will do is damage the coating on the end of the arm - a spot of touch up or laquer will sort that. whereas a splitter will be forcing metal to slide against metal - and probably knacker the boot if it's a fork type . . I guess the two hammer trick is to hit it from both sides simultaneously? Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owelly Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 Thats the plan with the two hammer trick. In reality, you end up flailing wildly, hitting everything within striking distance ❗ its only a game......... http://daftlardycars.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carpmart Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 Guys Thanks to you all for your advice I will be in my garage later tackling the removal of the track rod ends and I intent starting with one the one hammer 'trick' and progressing through the desperation stakes of the two hammer 'trick' until I either end up in A&E after hitting a part of my anatomy that I shouldn't have or I will be taking a trip down my local motor factors to spend money on more tools! If all else fails then Adams suggestion will definately work.....leave the ends in place DOH! Harvey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 no mention of trying my method harvey...... im hurt ☹️ another way. put your trolley jack under the bottom of the trackrod. jack it up to press it out of the taper. all this hitting things with hammers... very primitive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carpmart Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 Granteuk You are just embarrasing me now! 😳 What can i do but offer my sincerest appologies for not mentioning your method specifically! Please can everyone note that I will be using Granteuk's method before I kill myself hammering parts that I shouldn't! Thanks Harvey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coose Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Even easier - take off the ball joint nut, loosen the wheel nuts on that side and drive flat out down a bumpy road. The vibration should dislodge the taper..... We will mend it We will fix it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carpmart Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 Coose Thank you for your post which has made me smile! 😬 However, this really isn't a helpfull post! Funny ........but not helpfull! 😬 I am, cough, 'working from home' today so I have this lunchtime, with a little brute force (lup hammers) and a couple of metal wedges, sucessfully removed the track rod ends. Yipee! Harvey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 I hope you were at least standing on one leg or dancing a jig or something to get into the spirit of things... Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete east Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 The two hammer method will work, but the pain is that you have to take the wheel hubs/brake disk/brake caliper off to get the best clear whack at both sides of the track rod arm. The point is you dont even need big hammers if you get the timing right. The old boy who showed me how to do it used a pair of tiny ball peine hammers not much bigger than the ones people use for making picture frames and hardly used any force either, but the stub axle he used it on came out of the upright so fast it fired iteslf across the workshop (and this after another garage had destroyed the end of the stub axle by trying to push it out on their hydraulic press) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owelly Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Mental wenches 🤔 its only a game......... http://daftlardycars.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=owelly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owelly Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Menthol wrenches 🤔 its only a game......... http://daftlardycars.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=owelly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 well done harvey hope the rest of the job goes smoothly for ya.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renny Posted April 8, 2005 Share Posted April 8, 2005 I always have used the "One Hammer" technique. OK sometmes it is a 2Kg lump hammer rather than a 2lb ball pein, but it works veryy effectively and without damage (as long as you leave the nut on by a couple of threads). Hit towards some resistance, usually towards the hub centre, and don't be frightened to hit sharply. I remember many years ago seeing Mick Collard (of Spedworth Hot Rods era) struggling to remove a ball joint in the pits at Cowdenbeath. My dad removed it with one blow with a hammer, earning much gratitude from Mick. Renny Thomson MSA Scrutineer (Nat A) My Website Edited by - Renny on 8 Apr 2005 10:40:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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