DOD7 Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Most of the fellow owners that I know say that the right temp for the 1.6K engine is 80°C. Mine gets stabilized between 100 and 110. It never goes into the red zone but I am really worried of the possible consequences. I went to see a mechanic who told me everything was normal. He even said the engine makers recently realized it was running better over 100°C and as I bought my 7 brand new one month ago, it is normal. Should I trust him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Assuming we are talking about road driving at this time of year then it doesn't sound right to me. Is this coolant temp or oil temp? Is it a standard 115bhp 1.6 with wet sump? If so then possible causes included overfilling with oil and a bad temp sender. Wet sump oil level should be checked with engine wamr and running. With the shallow sump pan, overfilling can result in excess windage (crank splashing in the oil) which results in high temps. Certainly not heard the advice of the mechanic before. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sue Dinnim Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 When my 1.6K started running at that sort of temperature it turned out to be the dreaded head gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 First of all - check the temp sender... The ones used with the standard gauges are notoriously unreliable - an indicated 100-110 could easily be an actual 80-90 deg C - and this is what I'd expect to see on my 1.6k (I've never got the coolant temp up to more than about 90 - even on a hot track-day) You might as well just order a new temp-sender from CC - I can guarantee that if it hasn't failed already, it will at some point in the future - so it'll save you some hassle to get one now. I've been through three or four over the last year and a half - this is entirely unexceptional (although YMMV). I can't wait to ditch the coolant gauge for another SPA gauge (I've run with one of their oil temp/pressure gauges for over a year) - these are ultra-reliable and accurate (at least when compared to the standard instruments) Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOD7 Posted January 2, 2005 Author Share Posted January 2, 2005 It is the the coolant T° and I have a wet sump. The car is less than one month old so I would think that Myles is right. But I don't know how to check the sender. Instead of ordering a new one, I might as well buy a reliable one. What is SPA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/design/index.htm Steve SE7EN-UP! (It'S NOT Green!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 There *should* be a resurrected SPA BB launched soon - might not complete until after the Autosport show though. Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 DOD7, To test it, remove the sensor from the water rail (beware coolant is likely to come out ot the hole so either drain it first or have something to plug the hole temporarily) and place it in a kettle of boiling water. Should register 100C on your guage. Or simply buy and fit a replacement as previously suggested. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Steve, If the temp sensors in the water rail. What's the sensor that's in the top of my Rad (1600K)? I thought this was the sender. Still Shaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CageyH Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 That's the fan switch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Cagey is correct. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Replacement sender is about £10. I'm really *really* serious about you needing one in the future - they are pants.... ☹️ Project Scope-Creep is underway... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Woods Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Another way to test the sender is to use a thermocouple - Maplin sell a multimeter for £13 that includes one and is accurate enough to tell you if the sender is accurate or not. The details are here Nick Red and Black 1.6K supersport visit Carrotland.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom White Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Hi DOD7, If you do have access to a digital multimeter, you can check the sender against typical values listed here Good luck Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom White Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Sorry I just had another thought If your engine is really running at between 100 and 110 deg C then the cooling fan will be cutting in and out (on mine the hysteresis is on at 101.5 and off at 91.5). If its not then you almost certainly have a metering problem. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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