Subaru Blue SV Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 My temp gauge was reading low, then was working normal. now has stopped working. Without getting too techie (it is still under warranty) what colour are the wires i need to check and wherabouts are they on the K series engine. (wheres the sender). Is it more likely to be the sender. With regards the bottom ball joint on the front suspension. I noticed the upper part of the ball that is visible looks dry. Does this need to be lubricated ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Almost certain to be the sensor. The sensor is on the water rail above the exhaust manifold. Remove the connector and short to earth (body) with igntition on. The gauge should then read full hot. If so, it's the sensor. Mine failed at about 1500 miles. Replacement came next day and took about 5 minutes to fit. Use some PTFE tape round the thread and don't overtighten. I didn't lose any coolant when I changed it. Loads about this in the archives - use the search Guy See some pictures of the build here. First 2000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 I agree it's the sensor too. Mine failed too within 3 months of having the car new. Identical symptoms. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Chris Any idea why they fail - what is inside them? Mine failed at about 1000-1500 miles, and the probe tip (inside the water rail) looked like new Guy See some pictures of the build here. First 2000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 It's a great question Guy, but one to which I don't know the answer. Basically inside the thing is a temperature sensitive resistor which should run and run. Most failures in electronics usually turn out to be something mechanical so I just wonder whether the bond between the resistor and the outside world is failing due to heat cycling and vibration. It should hardly be a surprise to the designer but it's a crazy world! A good question to ask CC, as it's such a common fault. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Yep, strange isn't it! They are a passive part, so not really sure why they fail so early into their life. The failed one doesn't rattle, so no major mechanical failure - I'm very tempted to cut it open and have a look inside... Guy See some pictures of the build here. First 2000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 To answer the lower wishbone spherical joint question. They are dry / self lube anticorrosion and last pretty well in all conditions. Expect about 10000 miles out of them or perhaps more. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 I think that would be a great idea. 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Blue SV Posted May 25, 2004 Author Share Posted May 25, 2004 Looks like the sensor then. I'll get a new one under the warranty. With regards the bottom suspension Joint, cars done 23K miles. it was the caterham press SV seen mostly in top gear so i guess if it was worn it was changed at the factory. Thanks for all your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 you can feel if the bearing is worn , jack the front of the car up so the wheel is off the ground , remove your wheel , and then lift the lower wishbone , if there is play in the bearing you will feel it . Bearing is chap from caterham and easy to change .... Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADMALC Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 Dave you say the spherical joint is easy to replace but mine has a blind circlip. ie no holes for the pliers. I have tried everything to get it out but no joy. Any ideas? I have tried drilling. I have welded the bearing to stop the circlip rotating and filed down an 'o' ring remover to hook under it. Still not managet to get it out. S7MAD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Rogers Posted May 25, 2004 Share Posted May 25, 2004 S7MAD Weld small tab to circlip, drill, and remove. James F. Rogers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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