Miker7 Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 (edited) I'm about to put the sump back together this weekend on the k series. Realised the nuts that hold the ali baffle plate are on at what seems to be a very low torque. I've not seen mention of using threadlock (and would threadlock be safe in the sump oil?). I've searched the archives and can't find any mention of anyone asking the question which surprised me. What do people normally do? just Torque them up to (i need to double check) 8nm or add thread lock? Whilst I'm asking what about the oil pickup, thats a lot higher torque, does anyone add thread lock to that? (hopefully the cam belt, water pump and thermostat being done next will not result in any questions) Cheers Mike Edited February 9 by Miker7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted February 9 Area Representative Share Posted February 9 (edited) I published a guide in LF some years ago with all the info a copy of which can be found here: Rover K Series Sump Foam Baffle Change - Maintenance - Caterham and Lotus Seven Club (caterhamlotus7.club) I would not advocate using thread lock for the simple reason that the attachments were not thread locked in the first place. After some research I recommended the following torque values: Baffle Plate M10 nuts - 27-34 Nm (20-25 ft/lbs) I would suggest the lower torque figure due to the plate being made of aluminium. This would avoid damage around the stud holes. Oil Strainer pick up - 16-20 Nm (12-15 ft/lbs). The trouble is one of the strainer bolts is usually obstructed so care should be taken tweaking the bolt with a spanner. I used these values on my own 1.6K three times during the time that I owned it, with no problems. The other thing is please check that the O ring is still situated in the end of the strainer/pick up pipe. It has been known to go astray ! Edited February 9 by Geoff Brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Brilliant, that works for me, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 I would use blue medium strength thread lock on any fastening in the sump.Belt and Braces perhaps but the consequences of a fastening coming loose in the sump will probably be grave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanRo Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 When I removed mine to check the foam, which was absent, and drill gasket holes, I used Loctite when replacing them. Didn’t know if it was correct but intuition suggested it might be sensible. The only thing I wondered was whether it would bond, given the oil which, despite my cleaning efforts, was in all of the threads. It was irrelevant in the end because both were subsequently removed by Dave Andrews for bottom end work and I’m sure he would have done whatever is best when re- fixing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 Foam removed and gallery modified...... However......slight to major issue. The head of one baffle thread is stripped. I've read on here that newer engines use a bolt. I've cut a M6 8.8 down to size. Now trying to decide what torque to use. Now I'm threading into the depths of the engine im worried if I get this wrong and strip the thread I've got a world of pain. I'm used to old xflow iron not Ali. Also worrying the torque listed above is too high and that's why I've stripped the thread on the stud (can't promise it's wasn't me cross threading it but I'm sure i did it finger tight earlier in the week) Ho hummm it's no fun when it's all just works ☺️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 9 Author Share Posted February 9 This is the site that had me worried about the torque settings above https://caterhamsuperlight106.wordpress.com/tag/torque-settings/ I've got all bolts / nuts at 15 to 17nm and chickened out going further as it doesn't feel right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) 12Nm is about the max torque limit for an unlubricated M6x1.00 8.8 bolt, Mike, you would need a 10.9 bolt to get to about 16Nm and 12.9 for 20Nm. The thread in aluminum should also be a minimum of 2d (12mm) engagement depth at max torque, a bit higher if using more than an 8.8 bolt. Edited February 10 by aerobod - near CYYC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 Guess who can't sleep? Their is oil in the threads so hopefully that will save me. Wish I'd stick with 10nm now. Ho hum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 6 minutes ago, Miker7 said: Guess who can't sleep? Their is oil in the threads so hopefully that will save me. Wish I'd stick with 10nm now. Ho hum. I’m the annoying bugger that keeps people awake, Mike. Helps that I’m 10 time zones behind the UK at the moment. I think 10Nm should be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 Unfortunately the bolts / nuts are already a lot past 10nm. I'm debating leaving them as they are, tightening up the sump and crossing my fingers for a few thousand miles. Not sure what the alternative is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 3 minutes ago, Miker7 said: Unfortunately the bolts / nuts are already a lot past 10nm. I'm debating leaving them as they are, tightening up the sump and crossing my fingers for a few thousand miles. Not sure what the alternative is. I think someone who has experience with that particular sump may chime in, as my knowledge is not specific. The oil should help the threads not pull out, especially if you have 12mm or more of thread engagement. I would inspect the thread and replace the bolt if it is taken out. Brake cleaner sprayed up to the top of the blind hole, followed by the tip of a rag or cotton bud will clean oil out of the thread if inspection is required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miker7 Posted February 10 Author Share Posted February 10 20 hours ago, Geoff Brown said: I published a guide in LF some years ago with all the info a copy of which can be found here: Rover K Series Sump Foam Baffle Change - Maintenance - Caterham and Lotus Seven Club (caterhamlotus7.club) I would not advocate using thread lock for the simple reason that the attachments were not thread locked in the first place. After some research I recommended the following torque values: Baffle Plate M10 nuts - 27-34 Nm (20-25 ft/lbs) I would suggest the lower torque figure due to the plate being made of aluminium. This would avoid damage around the stud holes. Oil Strainer pick up - 16-20 Nm (12-15 ft/lbs). The trouble is one of the strainer bolts is usually obstructed so care should be taken tweaking the bolt with a spanner. I used these values on my own 1.6K three times during the time that I owned it, with no problems. The other thing is please check that the O ring is still situated in the end of the strainer/pick up pipe. It has been known to go astray ! How do we get your guides updated. The screen shot is from a rover service manual listing much lower (and currently seems more likely torque settings) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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