Gridgway Posted June 12, 2023 Share Posted June 12, 2023 This is the first bodgery I've come across in my LA 7. What you can see is the wiring connector block and hazard switch. Those two green and white wires are for the rh indicators and should be in a female terminal in the connector block. For some reason that must have broken so they have been connected to two extending wires and then connected to one wire (using those ghastly pre-insulated crimp connectors). The wire was threaded through the connector block and soldered to the pin on the switch. Who would do that nonsense?And to the questions, what are those wiring connector blocks called? How are they used? Is it likely that I can get a new female end, connect it to the green and white wires and mount it securely in the connector block? If I need a new block are the female ends easy to get out of the old one?And yes it worked for the MoT and I was replacing the fog light switch that worked but didn't have a tell tale (the MoT didn;t pick that up!). I took out the hazard switch and the soldered wire broke off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 12, 2023 Member Share Posted June 12, 2023 Can you remove the block from the switch and add some photos of both ends of the block.ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 They are the same switches as many British Leyland cars of the 80s including the classic Mini, so I expect they are a Lucas Elliott part.Edited to say googling Lucas Rists seems to bring up the connectors you need.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 I think you have some top quality bodgery here, someone has gone to a lot of trouble to fashion this arrangement, but as you say, it is not as desired.I think you will find the female part is located in position with a small "tang" which pops out from the terminal as it is placed in the housing, these are generally removed by a tubular tool pushed into the housing from the male end, if you follow, this moves the tang back into the female terminal and the wire can be extracted from the rear.The tricky part might be sourcing the connector, and do you have a suitable crimping tool to fix the new terminals to the wires? And of course this not easily done when upside down under the dash, I don't envy you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted June 13, 2023 Author Share Posted June 13, 2023 Thanks all, I'll research what's needed. I doubt that the wires are long enough now to comfortably be crimped in. So I can see still having to extend them. But I can do it in a much neater way and without soldering to the pin of the switch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted June 13, 2023 Author Share Posted June 13, 2023 Thanks again, I have bought some spares off ebay (there seems to be one uk supplier - something like Three Way Electrical) plus a connector removal tool. The connectors just crimp on using the ratchet crimp tool. There might be enough length on the two broken wires to crimp a new connector on, but I expect they'll need extending. I'll probably solder one extension wire to the two rather than try and crimp two wires into one connector. I also ordered a new connector block in case the one on there is damaged and won't hold the connector in. Then I'll have to get all the connectors back in the right holes!Interestingly, when I was working on the fog light switch problem (the one next to the hazards which is how I found the broken wire) I was checking fuses. I noted then that the indicator fuse had a label sellotaped to it and wondered why. Now I know! Interestingly the fuse positions are different from the manual. Most are ok, but two are swapped over - the indicator fuse being one of them.I'm rambling now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 13, 2023 Member Share Posted June 13, 2023 Please could you post the actual fuse layout and date and model... it will help someone someday!ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 Was it 3 Way Components? It would be really useful if you could post a link - or at least some text that would help us find the connector from that page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 I've used that company before for VW connectors. Always been good service Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted June 13, 2023 Author Share Posted June 13, 2023 #8Yes I bought this pack from their ebay shop 5 pin connectorTheir main website is here Thee Way Components#7Will take a photo later and show Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted June 14, 2023 Share Posted June 14, 2023 Book marked this company for future adventures in wiring, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted June 18, 2023 Author Share Posted June 18, 2023 Right I thought I had this nailed, but it seems not.I've tried to put a new connector into the connector socket, but it looks like somehow the whole soldering escapade has damaged the socket in some way and it won't go in.Then in my haste I bought a new 5 pin socket, when it's actually an 8 pin one. And the 8 pin ones are NLA.Armed with this info I will have another go at getting the connector into the socket block with renewed gusto. But if that fails I am a bit stuck.There are quite a few variants on the Caterham parts website. 1981-2010 which uses 6 pins of 8 available (which is what I have). 2010 on which uses the 5 pin arrangement. This makes sense with one +ve in to switch to 4 corners, although I don;t think the switch works quite that way.Soldering the wire back on the switch is an increasingly attractive idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted June 18, 2023 Share Posted June 18, 2023 Bad luck Graham.Am I right in thinking the pin on the switch is in serviceable condition? If so, I think, if this was my car, I would cut the plastic socket holder away from the main part of the connector body where the damaged socket is, so you end up with a slot from the side, then attach the new female connector to the wire and fit this to the pin on the switch, and then refit the connector block to the switch, I know this is bodgery, but a better class of bodgery than the original solder to the pin style. I hope I have described the procedure clearly, it's one thing to have the plan in the head and then try to convey this to someone else in words, bash on, you'll get it sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 Or take note of the wire colour positions in the plug, remove all the connectors and have a close look at the plug on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted June 19, 2023 Member Share Posted June 19, 2023 Please can you post some photos of the disconnected switch and the connector.ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 A member has messaged me (thanks!) with what looks like the right connector block here https://europaspares.com/delta_terminal_block_pins_for_hazard_switch_only_dstbhI'll have a look further as well as trying the current connector block again.#13 I did think of that approach or somehow bodge two 5 pin connector blocks. Hopefully obe of the above 2 will work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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