Emerald K6./ K-series and immobiliser

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

Morning all.

 

A quick question for the folks who know thier way around ECU's. I've an Emerald with a custom written map. Threads here on blatchat are thin on the ground but from what I can see there is just a tick box in the Emerald software that says use immobiliser yes/no. Is that correct? And if so, if the Emerald is set to not use the immobiliser, does the immobiliser need to be removed or can it just be left under the dash and wired into the loom?

(background is I think the immobiliser is stuffed and is the root cause of the issues I have when turning the FIA key on and some recent refusals to start)

[DanRo]

I can't answer your specific question but when they mapped my car, I asked Northampton Motorsport to remove my old Rover immobiliser and wire in a key switch one for the Emerald under the dash. I'm sure it would cause a proper thief only a brief delay but I was worried the Rover one might cause issues if it started malfunctioning due to age. 

[Grandmaster Flatcap]

I'm convinced my immobiliser is stuffed and would happy bin it,but don't know how messed up the ECU would be. 

I've posted on a thread on usa7s.net that is sharing a "how to remove an immobiliser" doc, but they're reluctant as my account on there is new. 

[oilyhands]

The immobiliser is off by default when you have an Emerald installed. It can be turned on in the software if you require it.If you dont use it then it can just be left. Some immobilisers work by disabling the starter, these dont involve the ECU.

If you remove the immobiliser and you have a stock ECU the engine will not start. On later ECUs (mems3) the immobilisor can be coded out.

Oily

[raw]

As others have said, if the tick box is left unticked, the Emerald won't use the immobiliser. I eventually removed the immobiliser completely as it was causing all sorts of weird effects on gauges , particularly when the hazards were switched on. Good riddance, I rely on a properly wired FIA battery master switch that kills both high and low current feeds to the car, and has a knee panel covering it that makes it difficult to bridge out the contacts.

Andrew