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Calling AnthonyM - JFDI (Warning: K-series content)


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Like I said...

Just do it:

Started with an empty engine block:IMG_20190401_131953.thumb.jpg.de387a392fae0533946ef8c164795d4b.jpg IMG_20190401_132525.thumb.jpg.366c335437b151cb71d9e00fc60218ab.jpg

And some bare pistons that had no groove for the circlip to lock the pin




Suddenly they did


Then on conrods


Now in "tool" to feed them into the liners:


Then in block (with a brand new crankshaft - unfortunately no picture)


Ordered a new VVC head


Stripped itIMG_20190409_093323.thumb.jpg.69fcee8f956abf931f5bafa4f8bca3d0.jpg IMG_20190409_095127.thumb.jpg.2dc62957c3b6b8e23397718d3374f57e.jpg IMG_20190409_093525.thumb.jpg.2fcea8f1ca232fb8c4a8f4724d7d5271.jpg

Move over springs and valve caps from old head


Fitted Piper Cams


Realised that the drilling at the end for the spigot bearing was not cylindrical, so had to take the block with the crank to the milling machineIMG_20190410_155817.thumb.jpg.c1a9b9b28bf2a8a239ba1379ce165bb7.jpg

And to find a way to catch the swarf

IMG_20190410_170451.thumb.jpg.1860aa0bdec896314c1fd354e3fa893e.jpg IMG_20190410_165953.thumb.jpg.7d927ee6c46b343c5077fdbb469492c6.jpg IMG_20190410_184522.thumb.jpg.86373fe72d570126582d931885b549f7.jpg Milled out a "bore" of 25mm

Then turned a bushingIMG_20190410_173107.thumb.jpg.1fbc3bd40df1f6ce7959a213dca3cb39.jpg

Outside diameter 25.005mm, at this point the internal diameter was 16mm


Cut it, knocked it in and milled out the center to 21.02mmIMG_20190410_170451_0.thumb.jpg.f23f2e2ffd27ac5367259c39ded026d4.jpg to, at last knock the bearing in


Then back to the garage to lay on the cylinder head - paying attention to the cam orientation as, otherwise there can be an issue with inserting the head bolts. The "notch" for the cam position sensor can get in the way...IMG_20190414_125226_0.thumb.jpg.ae2f8e0dd53bec4ad47b30a95a306605.jpg

Whilst at the workbench I did up the bolts to 20Nm

Laid down the engine and strapped it to the workbench to do up the bolts further 2x180 degrees-ish

IMG_20190414_130655.thumb.jpg.cd1a3e5cf301df0da4f83bd666737682.jpg IMG_20190414_130703.thumb.jpg.7415690be3df102ba1b2ed55bd934273.jpg


Wanted to fit the dry sump pan, but there was an issue with the uprated oil ladder

IMG_20190414_132238.thumb.jpg.bf1c9482c0a05291114a6b88994137ba.jpg IMG_20190414_132808.thumb.jpg.de5125fa7cab5488ff52413a7edee8bc.jpg

although I hate to admit it, I used a Dremel to remove a little material from the sump pan

Then flywheel and clutch


And now it looks like this:



Still havent fitted verniers and cambelt, but this will be done either tomorrow AM or Tuesday depending on how time allows.

- That's not difficult, is it?


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It's not a case of "making the wrong choice" Anthony.

The coice you made has given you the oportunity to own a couple of Sevens, so it can't be all bad.

Regardles what you do in your daytime does not make it impossible to have - and develop - a passion for something completely different. My own background has nothing to do with cars and cars, including Caterhams, is money out of my pocket. It's just a passion. Sometimes, if you do something for passion rather than life, you're able to take it much further than "a professional" could.

You just have to accept that you take a leap out in something unknown. If you want to build an engine just keep everything very very clean, do things systematically, lubicate well and do everything up with a torque wrench.


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  • 4 weeks later...

old petrol, dirty plugs and weak battery is why :-) 

However, this time I just used a fully charged booster and waited while the plugs decided to play with the petrol.

the existing battery is so completely dead there isn't even a click or a dim light - so a new one with fresh acid awaits us being road ready. 

before anyone asks I keep empty (no acid) Banner batteries in stock because a battery's shelf life is two years (I gather, forgotten how), starting from when it is filled with battery acid - and I disconnect for Winter and just leave it with a full charge. It's usually ok next Summer. The current ( ;-) . ) one was dead and unchargeable when Winter started, so no surprise it is still dead.


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Thanks Andrew.

I'm always feeling a little humble first time I fire up a new build/installation or whatever. I had a very small water leak at the TBs (I have a banjo and a banjo bolt there) but I just had to tighten it in anger (and bend one of my vintage Bahco spanners) then that was cured. There also seem to be a very small oil leak where the oil exits the sump. This will be addressed when I'm changing oil from the runing in oil to something decent. Other than that everything seems OK. Not bad for an amateur.

I've had to invent a few solutions as there has been quite a few conflict of interests with regards to all the hoses. I may end up having made up a couple of hoses if I also go the kidney tank with the next car. It would have been so much easier and tidyer if the overflow and cam venting tubes went forwards/backwards rather than to the drivers side. It would also have been better to have the inlet of the tank on the passenger side rather than having to cut the tank to fit an elbow entry rather than the straight it came with. The expansion tank has been movet to over the battery, where I just riveted on an angle bracket that'll also host an Anderson connector for powering the water pump in the pit. I hate drilling un-authorised holes in my panels which is why I just removed a couple of rivets to be able to fit the bracket.

I also had to remove more material for the starter motor to fit. Fortunately I discovered before dropping in the engine.


But... I just did it... like I said...


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