Difference in flow VVC Trophy 160 head vs non Trophy

[rj]

Does anyone know the difference in flow / expected max power output for a Trophy vs a non Trophy head?

Reason for asking is that I've purchased one of the brand new heads off eBay and it turns out to be the non 160 version.

I understand these are flowing slightly less than the Trophy heads (but are better for proting) but how bad is it?

Thanks

Regin

[revilla]

I don't know any numbers but I do know I replaced a standard VVC 160 head with a non-160 EU2 head that I had very lightly ported (in fact just blended the valve seats around the throats and chambers) and the power increase was quite noticeable. I think the only difference of any significance was the extra machining around the valves on the 160 that wasn't done the best way anyway.

[revilla]

Actually as I made that comment it reminded me of a conversation with Roger Fabry at Sabre heads. He wasn't impressed by the 160 head.

All the figures are here: http://www.sabre-heads.co.uk/flow-figures-for-rovers-k-amp-t-series/

Later 160hp spec VVC. 31.5mm valves. All std parts, barely improved flow over 145hp version.

[rj]

Thank you Andrew.

I'm wondering if I should in the attics to strip the 160 engine I have there and use that head for the mild engine I'm building at the moment or if I should just use the new non 160 head that fell off a lorry in front of my drive today.

I already had one of those in good condition :-/

Not easy making up yor mind when you have (too) many K-engines

[CageyH]

Out of interest, what is a decent crank to make up a strong bottom end?

I am thinking it is about time I modified my spare 1.6 engine to liberate a few more ponies from it.

[rj]

The standard crank will survive up to at least 8k - probably even 8,500,

Unless you're doing something daft, then you'll be fine with that. Brown and Gammons sell them at £325 plus VAT but beware that the drilling for the spigot bearing is not cylindrical so you need to machine it to accept the sleeve and bearing. I was supposed to do this today but the milling machine was busy when I thought I had an appointment...

I am doing it with the crank in the block as it's easier than alligning it in a lathe.

 

[revilla]

If I was going to build (yet another) K with a VVC head, after having played with both I would now choose a good 143bhp head over a 160bhp head every time. If you do want to do light headwork, you can make a much neater job of smoothly blending from the valve seats into the chambers if you're not having to work around the big rut that Rover ploughed around each valve as a cheap, cheerful and fairly hopeless way of doing the same. In my experience metal quality and casting shift were generally better on the earlier heads too, although how that applies to late 143 heads I don't know.

[CageyH]

I’ll be using a MS2 head. 

Unless someone offers me a stupid amount of money for it....

[rj]

I'll kiiiiiil ya!

[rj]