Paul Mason Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Thanks EEK, that'll be my next port of call them. I look like if replaced bits and simply repeated the previous problem again. At least this time I can see there is and issue and hopefully do something about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted August 13, 2018 Member Share Posted August 13, 2018 Some can be assembled with the bits rotated.......the first instruction in the fitting guide for a Powerspeed exhaust to a K series engine is that the rear of the alternator may need rotating to allow clearance....Discussed here.JonathanPS: Did you eventually remove it without having to move any of the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 No exhaust had to be off JK, but made replacing the plugs feasible too. Thanks for the link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 EEK, or indeed anyone, do you have the fitting instructions for a powerspeed on a K series so I can get the rotation right on the alternator (seen a 135 regress and a 7 o'clock mentioned). About to start stripping and rebuilding again now I know I need to tweak the alternator and want to get it right. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 EEK, or indeed anyone, do you have the fitting instructions for a powerspeed on a K series so I can get the rotation right on the alternator (seen a 135 regress and a 7 o'clock mentioned). About to start stripping and rebuilding again now I know I need to tweak the alternator and want to get it right. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 phone powerspeed? 01233 662225 info@powerspeed.co.uk p.s. I am curious how much clearance you have between the side skin and the alternator?edit (made after post #40) to correct my error, my above p.s. should read:p.s. I am curious how much clearance you have between the chassis frame (NOT side skin) and the alternator?(Paul's answers remain apt regardless of this change.) Assuming an S3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 Have mailed powerspeed but no response as yet so was hoping POBC may have sped up my progress. The front of the alternator has about 2 inches clearance from sideskin and about an inch both up and away from the bottom rail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 two inches?! I have 1.5 mm . On a good day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 30, 2018 Author Share Posted August 30, 2018 Took a pic tonight as it happens as I was dismantling, not the best pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 is this an SV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 No, S3 with a K and a Bosch alternator. There is very little movement to tighten the belt (grooved type stretch belt) so that may be the difference? The belt is a pig to get on and off even with the tensioner bracket off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Nah, there’s something very different to mine. 1.5mm versus 2 inches. That’s huge. Min’s now Brise, before that something else, but device size differences can’t explain this. I have 1.8 engine.. I’m just amazed; I have always struggled to achieve even my 1.5 millimeters. I like Brise kit by the way, and they are very approachable and ever helpful when one calls by: down in Kent not far from Dartford iirc. They showed me my choices before building what I needed, and easier to fit because design includes allowing for mounting adjustments (starter). But I have interminable heat challenges. Edit: being at risk of hijacking your thread I’ve reread your op. 1.8 too and Brise. Yes, back to mother is best for sure. And that creamy stuff is battery acid, I use boiling water to wash it off. I had a badly fitting breather in to my Banner battery. 14.1 volts is good alternator charging afaik. I see this often as I have voltage display. I have never seen 18 volts.Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 Is this as simple as needing a shorter belt Anthony ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 I wish! I was just about to suggest a longer belt for Paul, with the luxury of all that space. and some of this thread sounds like cod (click of death), may just be worth a voktage check - or even just a grope for stiff wires to the starter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 I have a Bosch alternator Anthony, was confused, it's a Brise starter motor I have. Looked at Brise for a new alternator, but didn't have enough spare fundage so got the original repaired with a new regulator etc for a very reasonable £68 (though I am now getting re-repaired having broken the new plug with the exhaust clearance problem, but lesson now learned and backplate and plug getting moved). Aside from the original broken plug the alternator was pretty goosed, but worked spot on when rebuilt the first time with correct charge and after a couple of days on the conditioner, battery was also OK so once I've moved the plug/backplate, good to go out blatting again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 edited my post #31 because I was in error. I should have said chassis frame NOT side skin. This is mine. Zoomed in (which blatchat blocks in IOS/iPhone) one can see where it has previously worn in to the frame tube. @jk to stop this pivoting on upload, after upload pivot, I then first edited it to "90 degrees right" ready for blatchat 90 degrees left, so it then did not pivot. So I edited it back to "normal" way up and this time BC did not interfere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Mine is a lot closer to the frame, but if you zoom into my pic, probably still 10mm gap or so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthonym Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 yes seen, I suspect it's my Apollo connections are in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted August 31, 2018 Author Share Posted August 31, 2018 Looking at that view, definitely think yours is swung outward more than mine (my oil line goes a different way and not through the belt like yours) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Batty Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 Sounds like time to send your letter to Santa for a new car Paul Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 Nah, never get rid Derek, just a little frustrating whilst I learn all of the idiosyncrasies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Batty Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 By the time you get to learn them all Paul the Kids will be grown up left home And you will be able to afford a nice new one poss by then will have electric motor. Hate the thought. Enjoy the runs out derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Mason Posted September 1, 2018 Author Share Posted September 1, 2018 Certain things I will accept with an electric motor Derek.....a company car for the tax benefit, the electric motor in my coffee machine that grinds the beans, the one that is in a Maccie P1 or 918 Porker or similar, the one in the hoover (cleanliness and godliness and all that), the toothbrush one. However, and no matter even if it was faster or better, never one in a 7! The heart of a 7 is surely the mechanical bashing together of fuel and air and sparks to make noise and speed and smells and sensation! And perhaps, as this thread is indicating, me and electrickery, aren't working out to well at the moment! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now