1.4 K to 1.6 K engine swap

[David Lynch]

Edited to be readable !!

I am a little concerned now this task has many mismatches and pitfalls.

EU1 1.4K SS coming out and EU2 1.6K SS going in. Will be big learning event and as long as can prep well and have things to hand, big lump should at least be swappable in a day with several pairs of hands. (Gearbox out/in with engine)?

Had enough frustrations with the car so looking to remove most elements of surprise ! SORN since small person took over our lives :) He knows it as the broken racing car.

Potentially...and please add to the list:-

Lifting points, eyes to buy ?

List and source all ancillary gaskets, bolts et al, lubricants, sealants.

1.6 has stood a long time. New Belt, Manual Tensioner, plugs, other checks?

Sump bolts on 1.4 smaller (have a later spare pan) Input Shaft may need cutting 13-15mm Input Shaft may be wrong diameter? (Or is that only an early Six Speed issue?)

Clutch to flywheel bolts potential mismatch M7 vs M8? Aim is to reuse cover and I have a good AP plate. I have a EU2 loom, but have yet to bell it all out (unwrapped, incomplete?). Anyone got a good one lying around to photograph and/or one for sale?

Cam Cover same ? Ideally swap as 1.4 already drilled and tapped for Apollo. Already have converted to later, better Alternator config. Jobs to do while big hole in the middle?

(Will get into building up a spare 1.6 with some salvaged 1.4 parts well after this swap done)

Aim will be to document here for all to see how inept someone with an Engineering degree can be ;)

Ta in advance all.

David

[David Lynch]

Hope it's just on the phone that formatting on the above looks awful.... ?

[Tony Whitley]

If you’re using MEMS (the Rover ECU) the MEMS goes with the flywheel as the flywheel has a different sensor pattern.  So when I fitted a 1.8 I used the flywheel from my 1.4.

Isn't the 1.4 EU2 (distributor) and the 1.6 EU3 (coil pack, cam sensor)?  There isn’t an EU1 K Series.

I always lift the engine with ropes or webbing, never bothered with lifting eyes.  I’ve always taken engine and box out together but last time I fitted the gearbox first and that made getting the engine in much easier, though that’s my Duratec lump which is a much tighter fit.

The cam cover fits but I the EU3 one I had had coil pack mounts (and I think a cam sensor mount) so you’ll need to drill it for the Apollo.

Caveat: it’s about 5 years since I sold my K!

[David Lynch]

Hi Tony

I have the correct 36/4 flywheel on the 1.6 and it's matched (MEMS2 ?) ECU.

1.4 EU1 (or let's call it pre EU2) has a giant stepper motor acting on the throttle butterfly for idle and cold starting control (Yuk!) along with a slightly dodgy externally linked to butterfly spindle position JZX2963 TPS. Having just sourced a (new old stock 28 year old) one it did not cure the 1.4

Cheers

David

[Tony Whitley]

OK, mine had the stepper motor too.  The cam cover will not be a problem then.

I didn't have to change anything when putting the 1.4 sump on the 1.8 but I did grind down the end of the input shaft of my 5 speed gearbox (a good reason to take the gearbox out as well).

[Englishmaninwales]

My 1400 SS EU1 (I believe you are correct) had the smaller sump to engine fittings and I had to drill out the sump holes. If you have a later sump with M8 drillings it is just a matter of sourcing the correct length M8 caphead bolts. Make sure the two rear fixings are the correct length. (The 2 horizontal sump to bellhousing are unaffected).

I fitted the complete 1400 SS induction system with stepper motor TB, engine loom and ECU to my 1800. The only change was increased capacity injectors (cream) and the system works fine. I pretty sure there are differences/problems if you try to fit an EU2 engine loom to the earlier Caterham loom.

The gearbox first motion shaft requires careful measurement and cutting.

Correct flywheel needed to suit ECU as above.

Difficult running/idle in a 1400 ss is usually caused by a worn TPS, sticking stepper motor gears (needs clean and lubrication) or faults in the TB engine loom extension (check the multi connector plug, TPS and stepper connectors).

If you have no further use for the new TPS (JZX) I would be interested in buying it!

Malcolm 

[David Lynch]

Hello Malcolm

Yes, I might give the 1.4 one last go with a thorough wiring check, though the amount of coking in the cylinder head is horrible....and.... starter motor rebuild or swap as accidentally drove it into the still spinning flywheel...oops.

You'll be first to know Malcolm if JZX's going spare. I think I now have two good 'uns. Also keep an eye out or contact EBay seller "mark32parts". I bought a (28 year new old stock) Full Throttle Body assembly very similar to the Caterham install (Rover 820 T series MHB100046 with same base construct, JZX2963 and Stepper assembly but would have/will need modification for cam cover breather and some hose port blanking etc.). In removing the TPS the cheap screws that had nipped over time into the body snapped. 

The 1.6KSS (with full induction system, what looks like a full unwrapped loom and MEMS2 ECU) was scarily bought 10 years ago when Tonycaterham's L7EVL got power hungry) with view that the 1.4 would expire given car was an ex racer and I never spared the red line.  Not many parts needed to recommission and could be built up in preparation as have a sump and bellhousing. Need to work out a parts list for clutch install but hopefully that is just bolts and a cover (which one?) as have a good AP plate,new CRB and wet sump release arm (not wonky unlike the one I've always lived with).

So many parts so little time (and experience )

David

[oilyhands]

Most 1400 and 1600 cranks are the same so you may not need to shorten the gearbox first motion shaft, this is normally only necessary when going to an 1800 engine as the spigot hole in the 1800 crank is shallower.

Oily

[David Lynch]

Hope so... thanks Oily