Immobiliser failing to disengage on 2016 310R

[PaulH]

Been away for a few weeks but decided today was the day to get out in the sunshine again . Discovered the battery was flat - again - they don't seem to stay charged for very long?

Replaced with a spare new fully charged identical Banner battery whilst first battery goes on the reconditioner. The power comes on fine and the fuel pump primes no problem.

The (sterling) immobiliser flashes normal steady red pulse until I turn the key to stage 2 to disengage the immobiliser. It then flashes red very rapidly but fails to disengage. Repeated efforts (like about 20!) all yield the same result. Tried removing and reinserting the keys several times  - no difference, and disconnecting and reconnecting the battery after about 30 seconds - also no difference.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Paul

[Jonathan Kay]

Is that the contactless type, and is it the same problem as BigCol's described here?

What's the battery voltage with the ignition on?

Jonathan

[Jonathan Kay]

Discovered the battery was flat - again - they don't seem to stay charged for very long?

Lives off a charger, and doesn't have a battery master switch?

It seems to be variable, but Andrew has done some interesting calculations of what's going on with K engines.

Jonathan

[Jim 123]

You may have to re pair your imobiliser fob to the ECU.  From memory the process is described in your handbook. Before you do that, try "wiggling" the fob around the ignition barrel when the red light starts flashing quickly.  There is an antennae on the ignition barrel casing that picks up the fob signal.

[Gnockoff]

You may be asking the impossible of the battery if you are leaving the car for several weeks without driving and no other charging source. The standard Banner is quite a small battery compared to those fitted to a 'normal' car which may be able to cope with long periods of inactivity. I should add that Banners also don't fare well if they are flattened on a regular basis inasmuch as they don't hold a charge.

 

[PaulH]

Thanks for all the comments, both on the battery life and the immobiliser. I will try the spare key with the other immobiliser fob as the next step and see if that makes any difference, and also check the displayed voltage. It sounds like BigCol's issue was very similar, so I may end-up needing to reprogamme both fobs and/or switch to the other type of immobiliser. 

Given this sounds like a fairly regular occurrence for others as well, is there any advice on a) is there a "recommended" battery if Banners aren't very resilient, and b) can anybody let me have the details of the other 'contact'(?) immobiliser with a view to replacing the sterling one for something more user friendly? 

Thanks,

Paul

 

[Jonathan Kay]

 b) can anybody let me have the details of the other 'contact'(?) immobiliser with a view to replacing the sterling one for something more user friendly?

It might be worth individually contacting the Members who had problems in the thread linked in post #2.

Jonathan

 

[Jonathan Kay]

is there any advice on a) is there a "recommended" battery if Banners aren't very resilient

The lead acid battery I recommend is the current Powervamp, but I've no reason to think that it lasts longer unused than the Banner.

But a bigger (and heavier) battery will probably last longer... look for the rating in ampere hours (Ah).

Then there are the options of fitting a battery master switch or keeping it on a conditioning charger.

Which leaves the Great Lithium Question.

Jonathan

[Drumster]

Whilst they may not be the best there's nothing really wrong with Banner batteries if they are looked after i.e kept on a trickle charger, my last 2 lasted 5/6 years each. Also I've not had problems since fitting  a Sterling immobiliser 10 years ago.

I now use a sealed gel battery (lighter, smaller and maintenance free) and have re-wired by immobiliser through a battery master switch. This means that when the immobiliser has set itself to an 'alarmed' state I can remove the battery master key ensuring there is no battery drain at all. 

[Jonathan Kay]

Paul: have you got the appropriate Handbook and Assembly Guide already? Let me know if not.

Jonathan

[John Vine]

Whilst they may not be the best there's nothing really wrong with Banner batteries if they are looked after...

I agree.  The trick is to hook it up permanently to a conditioning charger when the car is not being used.  I use this Accumate, but CTEKs do the same job.

JV

 

[PaulH]

Thanks for all the advice, particularly on the batteries.

Tried to start the car this morning with the replacement Banner battery. Immobiliser light was flashing with the usual steady red pulse. Held the fob next to the steering column and immobiliser appeared to disengage but on pressing the starter just got a very rapid clicking noise and nothing else. Took the keys out, in again, immobiliser disengaged fine but still rapid clicking. 

Plan B: Removed the replacement Banner and re-attached original Banner, having been on the CTEK conditioner all week. Immobiliser disengaged when held right next to the steering column (seems to be very sensitive to where exactly you hold it) and the car started first time! Yee hah!! 

Still leaves the problem with the replacement Banner, also now plugged in to the CTEK - wonder if it's a dud? New Voltmeter arriving today so I can answer Jonathan's question - last one appears to have suffered an untimely demise.

Thanks for all the help,

Paul 

 

 

 

[Jonathan Kay]

:-)

Can you face doing the three voltage tests on both batteries: rest, minimum during cranking and 3.000 rpm?

Jonathan