1.4 SS

[p.mole1]

I've finally got one after 25 years, I had a few problems with poor tick over and stalling.

Turns out the Lambda sensor was loose and I changed the recommended plugs for resistor ones to eliminate ecu radio interference, runs fine now.

Does anyone have a photo of what the end of the dipstick looks like mine has had the end hammered flat looks like a right bodge and I have no idea where the oil level is supposed to be.

It has the six speed box and you can't use second when its cold and its not the best when hot , still a bit notchy is this normal or is it a knackered syncro.

Has anyone modified one of these engines, I was thinking of dropping the throttle body size down from 56mm to 48mm porting the head timing the cams and replacing the Rover ECU with an Emerald unit but I don't know if my ECU connectors will be compatible as my car is an early version 1995 with the single plug 

[Fyldeflier]

Hi P mole

my car has a yellow plastic dipstick I take it yours must be metal?

my gearbox was difficult from first to second and after seeking advice from club members years ago I changed the gearbox fluid to Redline  Mtl . The difference was amazing . Try it! I think you will notice the change.

I am afraid I can't help with the ecu question but with regard to engine mods I do know that some of the early 1.4 engines have a head that is not worth porting due to its design .

i would direct you to Dave Andrews web site as all the info you need is on there (look for Dva power)

He posts on here as oilyhands and is the go to guru for K series .

Hope some of this helps.

John.

 

 

 

 

[oilyhands]

The emerald will plug straight in, you just need to set the correct crank pickup pattern and it will work happily with an EU1 engine. You may have trouble fitting a 48mm TB as it uses an IACV rather than a stepper motor on the throttle, you may also find the throttle cable bridle is on the other side..

If you look on the inlet flange of the head above cylinders one and two you will see a number embossed in the top of the flange, it will begin 'LDF', if you post the full number here I can tell you if it is an early low port head, or a later and much better high port head.

Oily

[Wrightpayne]

When i took my 6 speed to SPC he advised 2nd had too fine a tolerance and recommended (for all 6 speed boxes) honing out a bit.

Ian

[p.mole1]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies, my dipstick has the yellow handle but it looks like it may have had a yellow plastic end at some time,the wire was hammered flat as a bodge.I'm assuming its a specific Caterham part due to the shallow sump. I will need to find someone with a 1.4 and compare it so I can modify mine into something useable.

I'm hopefully doing the track day at Cadwell so I need to get it sorted out!

Will get some Redline oil.

I have checked the head it's a high port and wet liner block so that scuppered my plan of getting 1.6 pistons and liners.

I was quite surprised how quick the car is,but it's flat below 4000rpm so I thought with careful mods I could gain some extra power and gain a little more low down torque.I can't believe the size of the throttle body its massive for such a small engine.

 

[Fyldeflier]

Has it got verniers on it? My cars timing was miles out when I first had it .Dva supplied me with some vernier pulleys and with the help of some good friends from LADS they were fitted.They transformed the low down performance and acceleration.

Just a thought.

 

 

 

 

[p.mole1]

Hi Thanks,

It hasn't got vernier pulleys on, after I bought I checked the condition of the belts even though it has a full service history, I never trust garages no matter who they are.

Found quite a few issues on mine with a full Caterham dealer SH!

I'm going to order a set although my car runs really well at low speed and will happly trundle along at 1200rpm with no transmission shunt.

Had a look at the DVA site and it seems a strange way to time the cams at TDC.Years ago when I used to mess about with Mini's you used a 360 degree protractor and dial gauge and the crank measurment was taken at full lift, no doubt thing have moved on since then.

[oilyhands]

Setting lift at TDC is the most accurate and repeatable method, you only need to find one position on the cranks rotation and the lift can be set within 1 thou (around 1/8 to 1/4 of a degree). 

Trying to set at peak lift is fraught with problems, the first is accurately finding the full lift point point on the cranks rotation using a stick on gauge where you will always have a degree of parallax to cope with and if it is not accurately placed on the centre of the pulley or not accurately set at the correct TDC point you will have an inbuilt error. You then need to find the peak lift point on the cam which won't be easy as most cams have a fair period of dwell at peak lift. Add to this the complication of having two cams to time at different lobe centres and you have a recipe for disaster.

Oily

[p.mole1]

Hi Oily thanks, its been many years since I've had and engine in pieces and an A series engine is about as simple as they come, no fancy electrics or new fangled aluminium.looks like a steep learning curve.

At least I own one dial gauge so that's a start.