craigyb Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Are there any guides on changing the oil on an R400D with dry sump?Any help/advice welcomed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I don't have a guide, but some tips:1. Change the oil after just shutting off a warm (not too hot) engine, it will drain quicker and contaminants are more likely to be flushed with the warm oil, than settling to the bottom of the dry sump.2. Don't over tighten the oil tank drain plug (I use 15Nm torque) and use a new copper crush washer on it. My 2012 R400D has an M10 bolt with a fine thread and uses either a 10mm or 3/8" crush washer.3. Remove the finger filter cover on the left side of the dry sump, it is the black cover held on by a single Allen bolt. This will drain an additional litre or so of oil.4. Use a cap style oil filter tool, as opposed to a strap type. I use the plastic Delrin style ones and torque the oil filter to 15Nm after lubricating the 'O' ring.5. Pour 1 litre of oil into the engine fill cap and 4 litres into the oil tank, then start the engine and bring up to temperature until the cooling fan comes on. While the engine is running top up the tank to 5mm below the top of the middle baffle (should take an additional 1.5 litres or so). It helps if the car is in the shade and you use a torch to see where the oil level is relative to the baffle.6. Make sure the oil catch container is emptied, if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregs79 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Aerobod - Nice tips that I shall be using. Thanks. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigyb Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Liek wise, thanks for taking the time to post that - great guide, and probably should be posted sticky to the main site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slap_ed Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Is this the black cover you talk about Aerobod?It doesn't look substantial enough to be regularly removed at every oil service. The tiny Allen key bolt looks a bit delicate as well, especially into alloy.I'm guessing there's a rubber o ring behind the plate and do you fit a new one fitted each time.Do you remove any of the dry sump hoses to get that little bit more of the old oil out?/sites/default/files/images/users/3729/medium_image.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerobod - near CYYC Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 That is the cover, it is a cup on the other side that fits into a hole behind. An 'o' ring on the cup seals against the hole bore. The Allen bolt is only tightened lightly (a few Nm) and really only stops the cover rotating, as the 'o' ring provides enough resistance to stop it coming out as the oil pressure is low with it being in the return path to the tank. As long as your lubricate the 'o' ring, it shouldn't leak after being refitted a number of times, so far I have reused mine 5 times without issue, but will replace soon. Use a thin bladed screwdriver to carefully lever the cover out while working around it's diameter, after the screw is removed.i used to remove the hoses, but found that I can get more out by removing the finger filter cover instead, with no more than a few extra thimbles full when also taking the hoses off. I found it was hard to get the hoses to re-seal without dripping afterwards. I also lift the car on the right side using the lower wishbone jacking point to get any additional oil in the dry sump out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griffchris Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Please excuse the numpty question (and slight O ring thread hijack), but what does one use to lubricate the 'O' ring - silicone grease??On a vaguely related matter, reading the build manual in preparation for my build, in the section regarding fitment of the gearbox to the engine (Duratec 6sp), the manual advises you to smear silicone sealant over the O ring that goes around the selector shaft - is this correct, as silicone grease and silicone sealant are quite different products, aren't they?Thanks (and apologies again)Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigyb Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 I was given some advice lately to turn the engine over without firing it, to avoid oil starvation. Does anyone know how todo this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hardcastle Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 You could do it by removing the leads from the plugs, but.... the engine is still starved of oil and turning over. Can't see any benefit to doing this. One thing you can do is fill the new oil filter with oil before fitting it.Hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigyb Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 There's no combustion - so less chance of seizing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mucus72 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Disconnect the Inertia cut out switch CraigyB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now