Paddle clutch - do I want one?

[Grubbster]

For my impending clutch replacement Helix offer a standard plate or a paddle type that can withstand more torque (I have a high powered K).  So wondering whether to go for the paddle type - will I notice anything different in use? Anything else I should be aware of?

[Pendennis]

Material and construction is more important than the type. So what difference is there? You won't be developing enough torque or shock to warrant it in my opinion. However if you went that route and retained the same construction doubt you'd notice any difference at all.

[Grubbster]

This is what they've emailed me -

Helix do a road organic clutch that will take 130 lbs feet of torque and also a race paddle kit that takes 160 lbs feet

Bassd on the torque I should go for the race one really, just wondered if it feels any different to drive. 

[Pendennis]

Yep it's the organic part of the plate which is weak, the material on the paddle is probably metallic which is stronger, I recommend you still retain it as a sprung type though.

You won't notice any difference, I didn't. However if the new plate is not sprung it will behave a bit grabby.

[Shaun_E]

For a road and track K series I would stick with the Caterham AP clutch. I used and abused one for many years on my high powered Ks (226bhp/167lbft and 234bhp/159lbft) on road, track and hillclimb and never had a problem with it. This assumes you have the standard clutch cover.

My Duratec on the other hand destroyed the AP clutch last year and, on Pendennis advice, I fitted a cerametallic paddle clutch plate with a sprung centre. It's a bit fierce compared with the organic AP but you quickly get used to it - you can take a look this evening when you collect your diff as the engine is out :-)

One broken AP clutch plate:

[andy_h]

I've a paddle clutch plate. Makes for a digital clutch.