R400D not firing on cylinder 1

[simon-c]

Assuming cylinder 1 is at the nose end!

 

Car developed a misfire during a blat last weekend. Constant nad independent of revs. Cylinder 1 cold on spit test to primaries.

Thought it might be the coil pack for the cylinder, changed and no difference. Plugs look ok, changed over plugs with adjacent cylinder...no change

The wires all look intact with no chafed or burnt spots.

Car is an s3 k1.4 rebuilt be a member on here as an R400 spec with emerald, checking the injector may be a stretch as I'm a mechanical numptie....any suggestions, cheers. Simon

[Mark Durrant]

Did you check for a spark on No.1 and was the plug wet? If you have a spark then it could be either an injector or the wiring to the injector. It is possible to swap injectors however, given you describle yourself as a mechanical numptie it might be better to seek the assistance of a more competent local club member.

[simon-c]

Cheers Mark

I may have a go at swapping the injectors

Simon

[John Vine]

Hi Simon,

 

"Car is an s3 k1.4 rebuilt be a member on here as an R400 spec"

 

Your heading says R400D but your comment above suggests R400K.  Are we definitely talking here about a Duratec?

 

I've suffered a number of misfire problems with my R400D.  The main ones were caused by:

 

Fractured coil wiring (where the two wires enter the coil-on-plug (COP) connector

Fractured throttle position sensor (TPS) wiring

Faulty COP (on #1 cylinder)

 

So far, I've had no problems with injectors or their wiring.

 

I suggest you start by checking for a spark (as Mark says), but do wear insulation as it's v high voltage.  If there's no spark, examine very thoroughly the wiring where it enters the COP connector.  My fracture was inside the connector plug itself and difficult to spot.  It's also possible that the loom is damaged where it enters under the coil cover (mine had no grommet at that point, and the cover was slowly cutting into the wiring).

 

What year is your car, and is it fitted with the coil flexi-loom (http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=4669)?  (You can tell by the thick, silicone-covered wires.)  More pics here: http://s405.photobucket.com/user/trog65/library/Coil%20loom?sort=3&page=1.

 

JV

[simon-c]

Hi John

 

 

 

It is indeed a duratec r400, orig a c-max engine, upgraded with caterham parts to current spec, last RR session bgave just over 220hp on a plenum.

It look like it has an emerald loom

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/full-ford-duratec-wiring-harness-loom-for-emerald-ecu.html

I've tried a new coil, and swapped the plugs, a fracture inside the plug is certainly worth a look, thanks.

The loom looks intact, no holes or cracks in the wire or cover

I assume you can check spark by taking off the coil and putting a spare plug in it? Simon

 

[John Vine]

Yes, that should work. Good luck! You'll need to earth the plug body (but you knew that!).

 

JV

[John Vine]

Hi Simon, how did you get on?

JV

[simon-c]

Hi John

No spark, the loom looks ok with no holes / chafing etc

I should probably take apart the coil connector to check the wire hasn't fractured inside, not sure how to do this without breaking the connector

Its one of these

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/connectors/ford-duratec-coil-on-plug-2-pin-connector.html

If that doesn't work I may have to look for help locally, the car has no cat so it should be ok to drive on 3 cylinders for a few miles

Thanks for the help and interest in my mechanical ineptitude

Simon

 

[John Vine]

That's a standard Ford COP connector (as fitted to petrol-powered Focus, Mondeo etc).  You can dismantle it with care. You'll need a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver.

1. Prise out the red plastc insert. You should see two shiny metal terminal sockets (the pins on the COP fit into these)
2. Insert the screwdriver under one of the sockets to lift the plastic locating tab at the back, and at the same time pull the wire to remove the socket from the housing
3. Repeat for the other socket

Of course, if you do find a broken wire, you'll then need a new terminal socket and a crimping tool to effect a repair.

Your best bet may be to take the car to a Ford dealer and get them to examine the COP connector.  At least you'll then have eliminated one variable.

JV