K Series EU3 Engine Loom Wiring Diagram - Updated/Corrected

[revilla]

I have gone through the original post, imported from the old site, fixing the links and reapplying the formatting that was lost. All links in the first post of this thread should now be usable.

[Angus]

Andrew

What fantastic work !  Really impressive.  

A couple of small points I noticed:

You give the connector housing partnumbers, what about the pin partnumbers, or are they defined by the housing ?

ECU plug 1 pin 44 is labelled 'Inlet Air Temperature', but goes to the Inlet Manifold Pressure sensor C33 pin PB.  Is that correct ?  Seems confusing connecting temperature to pressure.

 You havent done one of these for a Duratec have you ?

Where do you go for your loom supplies ?

 

Angus

[revilla]

Angus,

Thanks

The various pins, wire seals and cavity plugs are generally defined by the connectors, although there are often multiple alternatives (e.g. gold plated, tin plated, for various wire thicknesses etc.). I've pulled together a list of all the individual connector components I used when building my VVC 160 loom. This list includes suppliers and part numbers for each individual component including the back shells, pins, seals and plugs. You can download it from my Google Drive here.

ECU Pin 44 is indeed 'Inlet Air Temperature' - If you look in my original post above, in Note 4 on the PDN file "Separate IAT (Pre-2004 ZR)" and "IAT on MAP (All Other)" I explained that some engines have a separate IAT sensor (which is covered by one layer of the PDN file) and others have it integrated into the MAP sensor in a combined TMAP sensor (which is covered by another layer of the PDN file). If you just download one of then flat JPG or PNG image files, you will see all of the options so there are actually two wires shown for ECU Pin 44 (C19 Pin 2 and C5 Pin 9 / C35 Pin B), of which your engine will only have one or the other. So in answer to your questions, yes it is correct and there is no confusion between temperature and pressure just a combined sensor that reads out both (on some engines!). If you take one of the later MAP sensors off the manifold and look into the end of it, there is a little exposed thermistor across the port of the pressure sensor which performs the temperature sensor function.

And unfortunately no, I haven't done one for a Duratec - the diagram arose from my need to build a loom for the spare engine I have running on a test bed. The loom is identical to the one on the car, so will do as a spare. I'm afraid I've only got a K Series, no shiny new Duratec for me to research in my garage, the bank manager wouldn't let me! What I can say though is I've built another couple of looms for other engines wit different configurations since (non-VVC, different cam sensors etc.) and they all worked, so I'm at least fairly confident that what I have got is pretty much right .

Andrew

[Angus]

Andrew

Thanks - all clear now.  I should have read properly your first post !  

BTW, the link to Google drive doesnt seem to work for me - I get a '403' error.

I didnt expect you to have one for a Duratec - my comment was a bit tongue in cheek!

How did you draw the connectors ?  Are there pre-drawn shapes in paint.net ?

I am intrigued by your engine test bed that you refer to - have you got any pics ?

 

(Sorry for all the questions) - Angus

[revilla]

Angus,

Think I've fixed the link - does it work for you now?

No pre-drawn connector templates. To be honest, if I knew at the start what a monster project it was going to be, I wouldn't have used Paint.NET at all - I thought I was just going to be correcting a few minor errors so I started with the Caterham diagram in Paint.NET and worked from there. Everything by hand. It sort of grew ...

As for the testbed, I have , more and

!

Planning to keep the car for the long term I was collecting a lot of spare parts and people at work started joking that I could build a whole new engine. Well it seemed like a good way of keeping my spares in good working order! Pretty much the whole thing was made from bits picked up on eBay, a few bits begged or bought on BlatChat, and all delivered piece by piece to the office, much to the annoyance of the postman. Not long after finishing it I discovered a major problem with the engine in the car (when grinding out the webbing to fit the starter motor the original builder had put a large hole in the side of the block about 5cm x 5mm with an angle grinder, covered it with epoxy and sprayed it with silver engine enamel, the epoxy eventually detached and leaked oil everwhere!) so the spare engine went into the car and is now the one I'm driving around and I rebuilt the original engine from the ground up on a replacement bare block from DVA and that is now the spare on the trolley. The two engines are absolutely identical twins, so I can swap them in a day without having to change anything else.

It's got full electrical, fuel and cooling systems so I can warm it up to temperature every couple of weeks to keep it happy (by the way before anyone points it out I do know the water flows the wrong way through my radiator, it was much easier to plumb it in that way and it still provides plenty of cooling as I can't run it under any real load). The control panel has switches for ignition, starter and auxiliary fuel pump, lights for ignition and alternator charge warning, a switchable oil/water temperature gauge, a mechanical oil pressure gauge and an OBDII port for diagnostics. Pretty much everything is usable as a spare for the car. Although the layout is a little different to in the car, I managed to make the wiring loom dimensionally identical to the real one, so even that could be used on the car at some point in the future if needed.

It was only through building this that I found some of the gross errors in the original wiring diagram. For example the LT wires to the coil packs are drawn the wrong way around which left the timing so far out it fired explosions and balls of flame from the exhaust across the garage when I first tried to start it. The wires to the VVC cam sensor were also reversed, turning negative feedback into positive feedback and causing the VVC system to lock at min or max duration, so it would either idle smoothly or lumpily like it had wild race cams at random each time after I revved it. Tracking all these things down taught me a lot about how the thing works and the whole project was very satisfying.

Andrew

[Angus]

Hi Andrew

Yes your parts list link now works OK - thanks.  A big list of parts, but very comprehensive.  Administering the sourcing process for that list must have been a big part of the project !

With hindsight what would you have used in place of paint.net ?

I love your test bed - now that is a great project.  Given I have a Duratec it has got me thinking .......  Although I think I would start with a complete engine in need of a rebuild rather than assemble one from parts.

[tangomikeromeo]

Thread resurrection courtesy of the Google search c/o JK. 

Revilla the links all get me error 403 or 404 (but you published years ago so not surprising). Are these still available please?

[revilla]

Yes all still available and updated. I'll take a look at why the links are broken and get back to you shortly.

[revilla]

I was using Google Drive to share files, and the links were originally linked to files on my Google Drive account.

I've now got my own website here: https://andrewrevill.co.uk/ with all my various technical bits and bobs on it.

There's a lot of stuff on both the EU2 and EU3 engine looms here: https://andrewrevill.co.uk/EngineWiringIndex.htm.

There are also updated main vehicle wiring diagrams and related bits here: https://andrewrevill.co.uk/VehicleWiringIndex.htm.

Lots of other stuff on there for those of a technical inclination too!

I've updated all of the links in the original post to point to the new site. I think everything works again.

[tangomikeromeo]

 Many thanks