strongy Posted November 28, 2002 Share Posted November 28, 2002 My brake lights work, but only when you push the pedal quite hard. The problem I have is that by the time cars behind me realise that I am braking I have almost stopped and they are almost on top of me! Is there any way of making the lights come on sooner, some sort of swith adjustment? and if so where would I fint it? Cheers Strongy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Posted November 28, 2002 Share Posted November 28, 2002 remove the brake pedal box cover you will see the switch you can adjust it now very easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted November 28, 2002 Author Share Posted November 28, 2002 Thanks Fred much appreciated, should be safer now through town, on open roads I don't seem to get many cars behind me 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted November 29, 2002 Author Share Posted November 29, 2002 Mines is a 1989 x flow, so no switch in pedal box. It looks like there is a pressure switch? on the brake line. Is this easy to replace and does it leak brake fluid when undone? Cheers Strongy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Morgan Posted November 29, 2002 Share Posted November 29, 2002 Search back through Tech Talk - there have been several threads on this in the past year or so, including one with the Lucas part number for a replacement hydraulic pressure switch. As another '89 Live Axle owner, I have the same problem with the brake lights - must get round to changing the switch sometime! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 Strongy, the hydraulic actuated brake light switch is no real problem to replace as, if like mine it's mounted on the pedalbox side, just get organised, spanner to remove original, and new one readily to hand, remove wires, undo, quickly install new switch, (don't try to repair it), tighten as required, and there should be minimal fluid loss, bleed brake system, the nipple on the distribution block where the switch is fitted, may be the only one that flows any air, as all the rest of the down stream lines are lower from here, and fluid will run from the supply side as the switch is removed. Hope this has helped, Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-B Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 instead of messing about with the hydralic one, why not just convert to one for the pedal box and save yourself a lot of bother and hassle 🤔 or am i being too simple here 🤔 Steve Metalic Black SV-VHPD click here to see our 7 and rallye pictures.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Brother Posted November 30, 2002 Share Posted November 30, 2002 To replace the hydraulic switch you would need to either replace all the brake lines leaving the M/Cylinder or make up some short sections of brake line to fill the gap the switch takes up. Oh, then you would need to fit the new bracket to the chassis/pedalbox and fit the new switch. Or you can just replace the switch - cost of around £10.00 Part number (from Blatchat post) is LUCAS SWITCH 2SH SPB401 900 15 02 Give Redline a call and ask for Mick. 01883 346515 Steve Se7en-Up! Less is more! Edited by - steve motts on 30 Nov 2002 16:57:58 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strongy Posted November 30, 2002 Author Share Posted November 30, 2002 Thanks I've already ordered a new hydraulic switch from Caterham for about £7.00. I'll let you know how i get on, Cheers Strongy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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