madmaninshed Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Hi, After nearly 12 months of fun and games , we are getting close to cranking over a 2.0 duratec conversion. Does anyone know approximately how many litres of engine oil it will need with no oil cooler, and a Raceline wet sump please? Thanks, Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 5 litres without cooler, Keep an eye on the oil pressure on the first run out as it can be the case that the oil pressure flutters above circa 4500RPM.- BM me if you need more detail on this Hopefully you have a mechanical guage and not the over damped slow to responsed CC OE version. Edited by - 7 wonders of the world on 4 Sep 2012 12:11:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmaninshed Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Thanks 7 Wonders - thats brilliant, I've got a new 5 litre bottle. Sadly the oil pressure gauge is the CC one ☹️. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Mechanical gauge with tube and adaptor to fit in place of existing electrical sender can be bought for around £40-ish ..... available from a local Sevener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 .......meant to add if it's a fresh build better to use mineral for the first 400 ish miles to aid break in, and run in according to your chosen regime. and dont forget to bed the cams in too if there new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmaninshed Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 Thanks for the kind advice. It is an engine that has done 2000 miles in an automatic Ford C-Max before the rear of the car suffered from fire/smoke damage. The whole front was untouched - and no impact. It has new R400 valve springs and new cam shafts. I am so lucky to have a friend who is a former race mechanic. He did the work, and applied some sort of lubricating paste to help with initial fire-up. Hopefully the engine should be run in except for cams etc. The valve springs were changed with the head on using an American tool called Valvemaster, which worked superbly if anyone needs to do this. After a very long time working on this car, that was supposed to have been totally rebuilt by "experts" in the kit car industry, we ended up virtually re-doing everything. We found countless dangerous incorrect fasteners, wrong size washers, wiring problems, completely shot (supposedly reconditioned) shocks, trapped bolts under the fuel tank straps (an explosion waiting to happen!!), even the 4 point harnesses were fitted incorrectly. The steering column top bush was a roll of insulating tape . Several well documented features were also not on the car. After 12 months of head scratching, plus nearly double the budget, it is almost there... ...well nearly almost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 even with the lube paste its worth removing the plugs and spinning the engine on the starter to get some oil pressure before starting it. This ensures that oil has reached everywhere it should before loading up the journals. Also, if you have hydraulic valve lifters (not sure about Duratecs), they won't clatter so much initially. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now