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How adjust brake lights sensitivity?


anthonym

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I seem to recall that on mr car (2001 Roadsport) the brake light switch is in the pedal box. I think it can be adjusted slightly by moving the lock nuts along the threaded section of the switch body relative to the part of the pedal that pushes onto it. Not a very good explanation, but I'm sure that if you take the top of the pedal box to have a look inside all will become apparent.

 

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the later ones certainly have it in the pedal box which may help anthonym. its a fairly obvious thing about an inche long with a psring loaded sensor touching the back of the pedal. easy to adjust the plastic (ithink) lock nuts to move it to suit.

 

Marc - is it a presure switch or an inertia switch 🤔 I've heard tell of both in sevens but never seen or known one. just curious...

 

HOOPY R706KGU CYCLE WINGS *thumbup* AEROSCREEN *thumbup* K SERIES *thumbup* CUCUMBER *thumbdown*

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Mark

 

You can get brake light switches for motorcycles which consist of a body with a spring sticking out which is the actuator. You could attach this somewhere inside your pedal box with the spring linked to the pedal and wire it into the existing loom. The only reason the actuator is a spring is to allow for over-travel of the pedal. Hope I've explained this OK.

 

I've heard that the in line hydraulic switch is prone to getting tired. A local Seven owner says he changes his quite often. I've also been told by people following me that my brake lights hardly ever come on. I might go down the motorcycle switch route. If anyone interested I can a few in. I don't think they are that expensive, only a few quid.

 

AMMO

 

Edited by - Ammo on 12 Sep 2002 07:02:55

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Hello.

 

On my 1990 1600BDR, the brake lights switch is a pressure sensitive one. And I understand it can be more or less sensitive, getting more and more tired with time passing by (like each of us *smile*)

Can't see any adjusting device.

The mechanical motorcycle switch seems to be clever: simple and adjustable.

 

 

Jeff

Cosworth 1600 BDR

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thanks everyone, including Nigel from New Zealand (that was a surprise!) it seems I have the hydraulic number which LOOKS easy to replace. Questions is this: will removal of the existing switch allow brake fluid to escape and will I have to bleed the brakes if this happens?

 

I am wondering if this is a five minute job or something longer, in which case the motorcycle switch idea becomes attrractive.

 

Also: how do I identify the part to parts suppliers?

 

Keep your distance if you are behind me!

 

Anthony

 

1987 Cosworth 1700 BDR

Live axle body - dedion back end.

Apparently.

 

 

Edited by - anthonym on 12 Sep 2002 13:12:19

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OK, I fixed it with a switch that when released by the brake pedal, activates the brake lights - so avoiding question of switch travel having to at least match brake pedal travel.

 

I'll replace the pressure switch at next brak bleed time to maintain originality - and then keep this new switch in situ for next time.

 

Anthony

 

1987 Cosworth 1700 BDR

Live axle body - dedion back end.

Apparently.

 

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  • 7 months later...

Hi Anthonym, I seem to have a similar to yours. Searching I found this post. I to have a 1700BDR with the brake light sensor as part of the braking circuit. I cleaned up the connections to the sensor and the brake light worked better but I do need to put what I would call firm pressure on the brake peddle for the lights to come on.

 

Did you get round to replacing the sensor. I was assuming the system would need to be beld to do this so would be interested how you got on. Also was it easy to source the part?

 

Alan and his Yellow and Green BDR.

 

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Alan,

 

The pressure brake switch used in the older layout where it is part of the in-line system is a Lucas part (sorry, I can't recall the number) and is generally available - certainly from Caterham, but I also suspect that you'd pick one up at most motor factors, even Halfords. You might perhaps want to try someone like James Whiting whom I'm sure will have one.

 

It can be replaced without bleeding the brakes, but you have to be quick swopping the old and the new units - it is threaded and simply screws in. I've done it successfully once and cocked it up totally on another occasion... As a precaution, I'd suggest doing it properly and bleeding the brakes anyway - not worth the risk IMHO.

 

They don't seem to 'last' very long, their efficacy deteriorates over time - but it's a cheap part and easy to change.

 

Good luck,

Pierson

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Hi, i do believe that old mini's used to have a similar system and after bleeding the brakes you sometimes didn't get any brake lights. This was due to a small pocket of air resting under the switch. The cure was: remove the switch, replace quickly and bob's your uncle - air gone - brake lights work. Maybe worth a try.
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gosh, this thread still alive! well it is now nearly May 2003 and my Sept 2002 "fix" is still working perfectly, brake lights are either on or off (which I like). At the moment my feeling is stuff the hydraulic switch. I don't like my on/off electrics being mixed in with my variable pressure hydraulics. So my bodge is now official and no messing with brake fluid. THANK YOU to the original suggestion person - I think it was a motorbike idea, but I just picked a suitable looking switch from the catalogue at a motor factors shop (In S Ireland) as it happens. Off a VW or something.

 

Anthony

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  • 3 months later...

Its great to have the search back on!!

 

Just experienced the same problem. The brake lights have stopped working. Have traced it back to the pressure sensor switch. (Multimeter over switch while pumping brake pedal)

 

I have just changed the rear pads, and wondered if this might have affected the switch.

 

So I will get a new one, and see what happens. My question (car is at home, I am at work) are all the switched the same, or does anybody have a part number?

 

Thanks

 

Chris

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