Pendennis Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 no it will fall out Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Circlip - then if they're as they were in my wishbones, you'll need a press... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 I'm gonna be impressed if you are using aluminium wishbones . . . and can therefore anodise them . . . Bri (ah - note to self- read page one first . . .) Edited by - Bricol on 21 Sep 2010 11:28:25 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 A metal finisher I used for stripping and crack testing MB hubs, anodises steel parts for Mclaren as well as other very well known motorsport manufacturers and from memory Cateham . They say anodising the wishbones is not a problem, I have seen their end products, maybe I am missing something here. If they cannot be done, them I am charlie 😬 😳 Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Maybe passivating? You can get some interesting colours with zinc passivating, as well as corrosion protection, with finishes not disimilar to an anodised lump of ali. Thereotically you can anodise steel - it's simply an oxide layer - but unlike aluminium, or titanium , on steel it simply falls off and doesn't become a penetrating finish. Rule of thumb for aluminium anodising is half the coating thickness into the metal, half out - so you have to make suitable allownaces for tolerance mating parts. And then they go an leave it in a bath too long, and your toleranced fit goes to pot . . . Passivating is a little less controlled and a bit more difficult to tolerance parts for a fit - so I've given up on using it as a finish for precision parts, and have gone back to a simple blackodised finish for parts I want to fit together without the phone call from shop-floor fitters . . . (These are parts used on machines inside - I wouldn't use blackodising on something likely to get wet.) Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 Ian what sort of colour and finish are you aiming for? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 Mike, the colour I have seen him produce is like satin black, so basically a smoother version of the CC power coat. Maybe it is blackodising, but sounded like anodise to me 😬 Powder coat doesn't seem to last that long (well it doesn't racing) and is a pain to strip if you were to go another route, not my intention this winter that's for sure Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacP Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 I would be interested in more details of your supplier as I will be looking to tidy up wishbones as part of winter refresh. Also would be good to get more info on the process as an internet search suggests that Bricol is right and "anodised steel" is in fact "rust" - of which I can create a plentiful supply without expert help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 I will ask Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Full set of PowerFlex bushes ordered today from DemonTweaks - £177.34+delivery Going to attempt to cut the bushes out tonight and then get them over to the powder coaters on Saturday, see if I can get it back together by Christmas 😳 Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Be prepared for some parts missing, I had quite a lot 😬 Did you find the circlip spring under the gold collar Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Ok I've spent 3 very frustrating hours trying to get the two bushes out of one upper wishbone. I've managed to cut the inner sleeve and rubber out and then cut through the outer sleeve in two places in the hope it would be easier to get out. I've taken a screwdriver and hammer to them but they still won't shift I don't want to cut them any further as I'm concern I'll put a cut in the wishbone itself - really wish I'd left them in there now 😳 any suggestions?? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 It is not that difficult, I pulled them out with rod, nuts and socket. Took minutes to get the rubber and centre steel sleeve out Then cut with a hacksaw blade through the outer steel sleeve, that was not difficult either. Not sure what your doing wrong 😳 If your struggling why not find a workshop to do them, or post them to someone to do, I know someone Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Ian they're an absolute nightmare!! Maybe I have different bushes to you (from a 2004 build) but I've followed your instructions and it just doesn't work. Who do you know who could get them out? Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 I have a friend located off junction 6 M25 who would do them for you. If you want I can mail you his contact details. My car is a 97 SLR and I did the rear as well, not an issue Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 YHM Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishy Dave Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 I found you have to carry on cutting to the point you can almost see the wishbone, leave too much metal and they will not come out. They are tough little blighters. David Smitheram, Wiltshire (South) Joint AR, 07718 368173. Used to be a 1400, now 1600 supersport race car www.racelife.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 You need the proper tools - screwdriver and ahammer once aren't the right tools. Small cold chisel, a lump hammer and a well secured metal working vice and a willingness to use them are required. Cut the out sleeve of the bush and collapse it inwards - then try to drive it out. If you have a blow torch and all the neighbours/wife have their washing out, the easiest way to get the inner and rubber out is to burn them. But take care afterwards - they'll be hot. Of course, real proper tool would be a press and suitable tooling to simply push them out. Bri Edited by - Bricol on 25 Sep 2010 16:07:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 in work I have a 15 t press and an old bush if you want to bring them over Edited by - Dave J on 25 Sep 2010 17:50:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Thanks for the offer Dave but im 10 miles from Raceline in Hampshire and you're in Wales? actually I seem to have found the technique now, the first two took 4 hours and lots of swearing, the next two took 40 minutes! So the technique is....saw one cut all the way through the inner sleave, rubber bush and outer sleave and do it towards the wishbone where's there's plenty of meat if you cut a little too far. If you do this and make sure you cut all the way through to the wishbone then you just drive it out with a socket and lump hammer - easy so two wishbones done in a day, lets see if I can do the other two in a couple of hours tomorrow. Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeE Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 All done, now for the powder coat this week and the powerflex bushes arrive this week too. Thanks for everyones advice Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Your all correct steel cannot be anodised But my contact suggests stove enamel instead of powder coat, anyone got any views on this Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 protect your powder coat by laying strips of electrical insulation tape along their length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pendennis Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Will it protect kitty litter damage 😬 Want to rent an 18th century Farmhouse in Rural Somerset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 no but driving tuition may prevent you getting there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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