Lotus Boy Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Hi All, For my sins I haven't touched the Seven over winter, it's just stayed tucked up in the garage, but doing some checking last Sunday I discovered a minor oil leak. There were a few spots of oil on the floor. I have had a good look around the engine and it only seems to be wet from the sump gaskets downwards and the whole sump has an oily film all the way round. Some photos here here here here Stating the obvious but I am guessing the leak is coming from the sump gaskets but just thought I would check to see if anyone has experienced similar and knows what might be causing it in particular?? The foam baffle was replaced two years ago and will be changed again when a full service is done on the car, just as soon as the weather bucks its ideas up, so hoping it will be cured then Also... Is this my OPRV? here I have noticed, since fitting a mech OPG, that my oil pressure sometimes flicks up to 75psi when the engine is under load (in first and second gear more than anything) and then drops back down to 55-60. I am thinking the OPRV is a bit sticky? Can you buy a replacement from Vauxhall and is it just a case of unscrew and re-fit with a new one (save for some swearing I understand 😬) Thanks for any advice and pointers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Dave that does look like leaking sump gaskets. Have you tried tightening the bolts as the gaskets do soften allowing oil out, even thought the metal spacers in the gaskets should limit how tight you can go. The only thing to remember when replacing the gaskets is to be sure to put a bit of anaerobic sealant where the rear main bearing cap and oil pump casting mate with the block as oil can find its way out through these four very small gaps. That looks like the OPRV and the symptoms sound like it may be sticking shut, which is probably better than it sticking open 😳. You can remove the nut and the spring and plunger will come out, maybe with a bit of help. SBD do a plastic plunger which, they claim, is less likely to stick as any bits of metal will dig into the plastic and prevent it causing a problem. The most important thing is to ensure that the hole where the plunger goes and the plunger itself are scrupulously clean. Replacing the assembly is a beggar to do as the spring is quite strong and you have to press the nut with your thumb whilst turning it with the other hand. Its okay once the thread has started but a ratchet ring spanner makes it a lot easier as you can press and turn continuously without removing the spanner. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 Thanks Paul. With my excuse of pipecleaners for hands and arms I may enlist the help of a friend to sort the OPRV then 😬 Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Dave, The OPRV was a deleted GM part 10 years ago when I tried to get one ☹️. I coulddn't get on with the SBD kit myself. Give it (the piston) a good clean and polish with metal polish. It its scored you may have to source one from a scrappy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 I had an SRE one but the spring was very firm and kept the pressure very high. The SBD one suited my engine better. As AVES says though, just cleaning up the valve with a bit of wet and dry may be all it needs. As Paul says, you'll swear alot trying to get the bugger back in with the engine in the car but it'll go back with a bit of perseverance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 Thanks guys for all your help. I'll try cleaning it up first then but not before moving the swear jar fully out of arms reach and ear shot. I presume I can change the OPRV without draining the oil first. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 I presume I can change the OPRV without draining the oil first. Yup. You'll should get a little oil leaking out but not much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 Perfect. Cheers Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted April 26, 2011 Author Share Posted April 26, 2011 Sorry to drag this thread back up but I have only just got round to sorting the problem. Due to one thing or another I hardly used the car last year. anyway, having removed the OPRV the piston seems quite scored. See http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5103/5659219182_a877a660ab.jpg and http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5658644759_80c2846d92.jpg I will try and flat it down with some 1500 grade wet and dry and maybe some polish too but do you think this is too heavily scored to be retained? Cheers David Edited by - Lotus Boy on 26 Apr 2011 22:28:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 That's quite marked but should clean up ok. The sealing area is on the top face. The main concern is the condition of the bore in the alloy oil pump housing. It's going to be a bit difficult to see whilst on the car and with residual oil coating it. I glued wet and dry to an appropriate diameter wooden dowell rod to make a bore cleaner. Just make sure that the piston is a nice sliding fit in the bore. I turned up an alloy bung to fit inside the socket to allow use of said socket to reassemble (it allows you to push and turn). A bit of wood would do ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny. Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Dave tried calling you the other day re. our meet up which Pat and I are looking forward to this year . As for the PRV, I'd just clean it up making sure there's no high spots on the scoring whatsover. I say that because I'd the same issue on another HPC I had. It was scored like yours and I decided to change it. The dealers never had a replacement so I bought one of the aftermarket Fibre ones..............it cocked my pressure up completely...........gauge would swing from 0-6 bar constantly. Cleaned old one up as you suggest and all was well...........I take it you'd no odd readings before you removed it? All the best, Speak soon, Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 Kenny's experience of the after market one mirrors mine. There are still plenty of red-tops around so a scrap sourced good item may be an easier option than trying to restore your piston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Boy Posted April 27, 2011 Author Share Posted April 27, 2011 Roger, Kenny, Thanks for the quick replies. Ive got some 1500 wet and dry so will flat it and see how I go. I had not heard great things about the plastic pistons so was going to swerve those. I wasn't looking forward to the refit but packing out the socket sounds like a good approach Cheers David Ps Kenny I take it you got the voicemail then. I too will try calling again this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted April 27, 2011 Share Posted April 27, 2011 I had the same difficulties with the Swindon "plastic" relief valve..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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