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Bent Dry Sump Clutch Arm


Richard Price

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BOSS did the same. I ordered a new one when Fishy bought the car but was sent the wrong arm so brazed the splits.

 

It broke again sometime after.

 

 

Which reminds me, has anyone seen or heard from Steve (BOSS)

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven toThe French Blatting Company Limited

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Richard, on my SLR the arm bent forwards which meant the arm hit the front of the slot in the bellhousing running out of travel.

I think this happened gradually as thinking back i'd been moving the Tillet forwards over a few months to operate the clutch!

After fitting a new arm and clutch i also fitted a clutch pedal stop.

The clutch is still very heavy!

Mark

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  • 4 weeks later...

Anthony, IMHO yes the engine needs to come out as I don't think splitting engine/g'box there's enough room to move the engine forwards enough to get access. Not aware of a stronger item but I would suggest fitting a clutch pedal stop if you don't already have one. This will prevent excessive pressure being applied to the cable and arm.

 

Steve.

Sussex (West) AR

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends

Puddle Pet Care

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Think CC do them. Essentially you need a piece of threaded rod with a flat plate on the end or a long bolt. Add two nuts. Rod goes through a hole that needs to be drilled in the upper rear of the pedal box. The nuts are then used on the rod/bolt either side of the pedal box to lock it in place. Infinitely adjustable using the nuts.

 

Think I may have what you need in the garage. Let me go and see......

 

Steve.

Sussex (West) AR

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends

Puddle Pet Care

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Yep. Threaded rod with a black plastic flange on the end plus nuts and washers. Yours if you blatmail me your address. As used on my own car and someone else I gave my last one to. Only thing you need is to be able to drill the hole in the pedal box and a couple of spanners.

 

Steve.

Sussex (West) AR

Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends

Puddle Pet Care

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the clutch arm will bend before it reaches the end of the slot in the bellhousing. The plate over the slot in the belhousing was to prevent excessive movement along the length of the gearbox nose rather than to prevent the arm bending.

 

If your going to fit a clutch stop you are better off fitting one at the pedal box end where the short lever of the arm moves towards the rear of the pedal box. The clutch stop fitted in the ally pedal box near your feet will easily distort and bend the pedal box *thumbdown*

 

the arm was uprated about 6 years ago or so to a TIG welded laser cut hefty affair. But these still bend and crack *rolleyes*

 

One good upgrade is to remove the engine and gearbox and then fit a duratec 2L as this comes with a very handy hydraulic clutch 😬 *wink* *tongue*

 

 

 

here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP

Taffia joint AO with Al

 

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do we know why or how they bend and crack?

 

The pedal stop idea suggests it's no more than excessive force applied via the pedal - so tuning that "out" would also be an option. In any event we still need to know where to place the "stop". Presumably at that point where the clutch is disengaged..

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do we know why or how they bend and crack?

 

no

 

The pedal stop idea suggests it's no more than excessive force applied via the pedal - so tuning that "out" would also be an option.


 

how are you going to do that when its *your* foot on the pedal applying a constant load ?

 

In any event we still need to know where to place the "stop". Presumably at that point where the clutch is disengaged..


 

obviously *smile*

 

here is my Duratec R .... C7 TOP

Taffia joint AO with Al

 

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ok, I'll put my assumptions away

 

I was thinking that at full pedal depression, make that the point were excessive force is not put on the clutch release arm.

 

And since you have concurred that "point where disengaged" is for pedal stop, ... ok forget all that, I'm just suggesting using the floor as the pedal stop. *cool*

 

we really don't know why they bend? *confused* ah, heat... does it get how hot down there?

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ok so if I never use the clutch I won't bend the clutch release arm 😬

 

begs the question whether mere normal pressure sufficient to release the clutch, over time, leads to a bent release arm, in which case it's not fit etc.

 

or whether it is in cases where the cable has been tightened beyond what is necessary only for clutch release (facilitating pressure in excess of release pressure) so again over time, and under the greater pressure, it bends. Same question is begged as regards "cables that break".

 

Seems to me the parts are (may be) designed with strengths suitable for dealing with "clutch release pressure" but possibly not brute force beyond what is needed. edit" so "clutch cable tuning" may be a skill to acquire.

 

 

 

Edited by - anthonym on 9 Sep 2009 17:24:56

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