Ben Fung Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Is there any benefit in applying something like POR15 to the chassis rails and underfloor of a new car? I've already used Dinitrol in the grot traps and between the side skins and was wondering if I should go the whole nine yards and POR15 the rails and floor. I realise I could just leave the powdercoat to do its job and then apply POR15 at another stage but was thjinking I may as well just prep the powdercoat then apply por15 over it during the build while everything is easy to access. Is this overkill or am I just being thorough? Think I also saw that some people have even sprayed pretty much all bare ally as well! Just trying to gauge where to draw the line in the sand, which I know is going to be different from persont to person, but I'm definitely interested in others opinions/experiences with the products they used and level of application to help me make up my own mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I suspect that coating the powdercoat won't be of great benefit, as if the powdercoat gets damaged, then the external coating will come off with it. I have coated all exposed aluminium in the engine bay and under the car with an underbody protection - it doesn't look pretty, but hey - who's looking ? Also applied a thick layer of underseal to the underside of the cycle wings and rear arches to hopefully help absorb the energy from any flying stones, and reduce the risk of star cracks from underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 apply good quality satin black insulation tape to all leading edges of chassis tubes stops loads of stone chips and hence corrosion 3 years down the road .... here is C7 TOP Taffia joint AO with Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 - what he says. Without spot-on prep work, POR15 can sometimes come un-stuck and peel off - I would have thought that factory fresh powder coat would not be a very good keying surface, and if you roughened up the powder coating, you would decrease the protection that was giving anyway...and when the POR15 starts to peel, it will look crap - even if it is pretty hidden. After our rebuild, I also used Dinitrol in the grot traps. www.mycaterham.com here Videos here 102,000 miles car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Fung Posted December 2, 2008 Author Share Posted December 2, 2008 Well that seems pretty conclusive, tape it is then. An easy, tidier and simple solution, we like those 😬 Cheers all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I used plenty of waxoyl on the inside of my chassis just after the post-paint part of my build back in 93, both in the usual grot traps and actually sprayed the stuff on the inside of many of the tubes through various rivet holes and the long flexible pressure tube they give you in the kit. Of course as its waxy it has picked up road dust and debris over the years and in the do some work or to re-apply more waxoyl the steel and alloy both look as good as new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Guys, Some very usefull ideas for the next winter months. Jack Flash j.jackflash@hotmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Ben look at RIF's carbon site he does grott trap covers I wished they had been around when I'd built mine Nick h Fuel your Addiction here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 satin black insulation tape Wossat? Where do you get this stuff? Is it fabric based? I'm engine out shortly, and going to do the chassis, and the idea of tape seems like a good one. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Its simply electrical insulation tape made from plastic type tape material that is satin black in colour I use 3M brand and buy it from the local hardware store. here is C7 TOP Taffia joint AO with Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 B&Q do a variety too but I found theirs wasnt as sticky. Just lay it along the leading edges of the wishbones and front lower chassis tubes, A frame and tubes under the fuel tanks etc and I normally replace it each winter. You cant see it when its done neatly as its exactly the same colour as the powder coating. The stones just bounce off instead of damaging the powder coat here is C7 TOP Taffia joint AO with Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 Following the original mention of this above, stuck black insulation tape to all the visible leading edges of tubes - virtually invisible. Top tip chaps *thumbup* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alextangent Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 O, cool, cos I must have a couple hundred yards of this. Alex McDonald Loud, louder, loudest... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Fung Posted December 31, 2008 Author Share Posted December 31, 2008 Yup good advice here guys - Did the Dinitrol and insulation tape. I was about to order the grot traps RiF did and they looked looked pretty good but since I had some spare ali lying around I ended up marking out a template and shaped out a couple of blanking plates riveted to the footwells (after spraying with the Dinitrol of course). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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