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Life with a CSR (so far...)


David.Ashley.Poole

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Hello L7Cers,

My name is David Poole and I am the new owner of a 2005 CSR 260.  Well, six months owner.  

Recently my thoughts kept drifting back to the Lotus 6 (1498 Laystall-Ford) that I owned when I joined the RN.  It had a hood, but no side-screens or heater, and I loved it dearly.  I drove it from the Britannia Royal Naval College, with my kit stuffed into the passenger seat, to my next posting, where I crashed it.  But I had another Lotus 6 (1466 XPEG Laystall-MG) some years later, and then a Seven (1500 Crossflow) – all road cars.

I live in Weymouth, work from home and in London, so it was not much of a stretch to get the train to Caterham at Gatwick.  They had a lot of nice cars, and let me drive a somewhat ratty 420R demonstrator.  But I was not totally sold, and so I arranged a drive in a new 420R and new-ish 420S at Williams in Bristol.  Now this was interesting, since the 420R had a six speed gearbox.  But although I liked the R – and the six-speed - quite a lot (but did not like the S much) somehow I was still not bonded to either car.  And then I saw that Chapman Cars in Kent had a 2005 CSR for sale.  Now I have always thought that the CSR was the pinnacle of Caterham engineering, and had been looking for one for some time.  How CC managed to produce such a sophisticated car was a mystery to me, and why they stopped making if after a few years was an equal mystery.  But I could not resist… so I put down a deposit, arranged the train tickets, was collected at the station by Anthony Paine, and had a test drive.  In the rain… and that, as they say, was that.  And this blog is an attempt to document my progress, and also solicit advice from you chaps who are clearly more experienced with these cars than I.

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And this is it… a 2005 CSR 260.  Many owners, 20,000 Miles, built as a knockdown CSR 200 (kit) car, converted to a 260 by Caterham in 2007 with a 260 engine and six speed gearbox, and a Quaife ATB in 2008 when it had its first MOT.  It has a very comprehensive service history and is in wonderful – almost like new - condition, but although the paint was great it was jolly dirty in the cockpit despite Chapman’s best efforts.  When I test drove it the diff whined a bit, but it was nothing to complain about.  After the high speed run down the M3 to Weymouth it was a different story, and it was howling like a banshee and had a lot of freeplay by the time I arrived.  I initially thought that this was going to be a case of caveat emptor, since I could not imagine anyone being sympathetic to a Caterham owner complaining about a noisy diff (!).  I was considering pulling it out and getting it rebuilt myself, but I thought that some advice from Anthony and Damien at Chapman would be useful… and the response was quite outstanding.  They insisted that I brought the car back to them and let them have it rebuilt by Road and Race – and I then called Philip at R&R and after a chat he found a 3.14 CWP that he had in stock and he fitted that, new bearings and seals, and rebuilt it.  He said that many of the original 3.48s had been manufactured by Hewland for racing and they were not too concerned about noise.  It also had no preload…. But the rebuilt unit is totally quiet, the freeplay has gone, the ratio is ideal, and you can only hear a whisper from the ATB on corners when you have the sidescreens off.  Philip clearly knows what he is doing.

I put this table together in Excel to see what the ratios look like in practice – and this is with the standard CR500 245/40R15 rear tires at 896 revolutions/mile.  Max power is at 7500 and max rpm is 7800, and you can see what a beautiful set of ratios these are for this car.

Speed in gears    RPM    Final    Tyre R/Mile    1    2    3    4    5    6
    1000    3.14    896    8    11    13    16    19    21
    2000            16    21    27    32    38    43
    3000            24    32    40    48    57    64
    4000            32    42    54    65    75    85
    5000            40    53    67    81    94    107
    6000            48    64    80    97    113    128
    7000            55    74    94    113    132    149
    7500            59    80    101    121    142    160
    7800            62    83    105    126    147    166
                                    
Ratios                2.69    2.01    1.59    1.32    1.13    1.00
Percentage change                    -34    -26    -20    -17    -13
                                    
Next gear RPM at 7500 change                5604    5933    6226    6420    6637    
Next gear RPM at 7800 change                5828    6170    6475    6677    6903    


Sine then I have rebuilt the front suspension – I thought one of the Heim joints was rattling, but after I replaced them all it turned out to be the lower steering column hitting one of the exhaust primaries.  But I did discover that one of the steering rack gaiters was torn and the rack slightly rusted, so I replaced it with the high ratio “race” rack, which turned out to be the same 2.0 turns lock to lock as the original.  I thought it was going to be around 1.6, but a chat with Darren at CC parts cleared up that misapprehension.  I also replaced the lower column, which was getting a bit ratty, and had not realized that the lower column sets the end-play in the upper column, which was grinding against the horn button slip ring.  So this turned out to be the proverbial “n birds with one stone” deal.  At the same time I swapped the original Momo 300 mm Team steering wheel for a 320 mm Jet, since the 300 mm wheel made the indicator and light stalks (I have the integrated cockpit) stick out like Ross Perot’s ears.  As they say…

And over the summer – when I was grounded since the builders were in – I pulled the exhaust off and had it media (Aluminium oxide and the glass bead) blasted, and insulated the primaries with titanium wrap; replaced the windscreen, which had some dings; fitted a set of weather equipment from Thundersports (the car had never had any); and compounded and polished it with my random orbital polisher.  

And then I tackled the on/off throttle transition problem that had plagued me – more or less – since I bought the car.  It was always easy to promote a kangaroo hiccup if I was not extremely smooth in applying throttle, and I managed to compensate somewhat by pressing my foot against the side of the cockpit.  In the past I had improved idle quality by changing to Iridium plugs, so I decided to try them in my CSR.  And the results were pretty amusing – they irritated the car immensely, and it became almost undriveable.  So I swapped them back to the originals and thought about it for a couple of days.  Now the plugs were pretty black, but Damien said that the Cosworth engines typically run rich.  But there is rich and rich, and I came to the conclusion that the ECU was running open loop and that probably the Lamba sensor was not – well – sensing.  So I replaced it with a Bosch equivalent, and after 100 miles or so I presumed that the trim maps had been updated and the engine settled down to a very civilized behavior.  So I put in the Iridium (TR7IX) plugs again, and it became even better, and now the transition problems have gone and it is a delight to drive.
Next year I plan to refinish the wheels since they are losing the paint on the inner tears 9but I am not sure about the color – originall or body colour, that is the Question), and replace the tires. I think I will stick to CR500s since they were designed for the car and I am not enthusiastic about modifying the front mudguards to take the larger section ZZS.  And I am going to get the gearbox rebuilt when I investigate the rattle in reverse, which I think is the clutch.  And that is about it, apart from bonnet stripes and a shift light – but I am unsure about the seats, which are not (quite) a pair, and I have been thinking about the Thundersports GT seats and would welcome comments on the choice.

So my conclusions?  Chapman cars are a truly excellent company, and I have no hesitation in recommending them without hesitation.  And the CSR?  Pure magic.  Great ride, wonderful feedback, more power than you (usually) need, best engine and gearbox ever, outstanding brakes and roadholding.  I am bonded.

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Life with a CSR – 2

I did not realize that my table of gear ratio/speed calculations was going to become so Horlicksed up when I posted them, so here is another shot.  If anyone would like the spreadsheet just shout… the blue cells are inputs and can be changed to suit various ratios.

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And I forgot to mention the headlamp re-location.  CC have new, lower, headlamp mounts for the CSR that fit onto the top front wishbone mounting, and I decided to fit these.  Here is the before shot…

CC0A0500-F9C6-4B20-9B8A-A53D9C97FB2E.jpeg.1b296134e8ebb18e5fb06c8977493437.jpeg

This made me build new headlamp sub-looms, since the cable routing is entirely different (it has to go from the rear of the front wishbone, along the space frame diagonal bars at the top, to the front of the wishbone).  So I ordered the correct color-coded wires, six-way Encoseal connectors, pins, seals and a crimping tool.  I made the sub-harnesses 1.5 meters long, and left the headlamp-ends clean so I could thread them through the mounts and headlamp bases.  The Econseal connectors and crimping tool I found a definite challenge – fortunately I had ordered about twice as many pins as I needed – and getting the core cable, seal and insulation (the seal is crimped with the insulation) all correctly crimped was a definite challenge.  I should have made a U-Tube video – how not to crimp Econseal connector pins… LOL.  

And while I was at it I replaced the front indicators, rear lamps, rear fog and reversing lamps since they were all rusty to some degree.  And I finished off with LED bulbs all round and a new digital indicator flasher unit.

This left the original tubular headlamp mount clamps free, so I am making up some Daytime Running Lights mounts as a trial.  I bought motorcycle DRLs and plan to wire them so that they are permanently on with the engine running (there is an ignition bus running down the chassis next to the lights that is not presently used), but use a relay to turn them off with when the sidelights are on, and back on again when the main beams are on.  So we shall see… or not.

The LED headlamps came with the car and I have not used it enough at night to really form an opinion.  It gets dark so late in summer that it was difficult to evaluate them properly, but the dip cutoff was very sharp indeed and they were very white.  I have not been able to track the make down yet… 

And while I am collecting sundry missing thoughts, here is a photo of the primaries with the insulation tape.  

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I have used Thermotec wrap in the past - it starts out looking fairly smart but gets ratty in a hurry, and steams so much in the wet, even if you use their spray, that it quite alarms pedestrians.  I bought the wrap from DT – made by Design Engineering – and it seems excellent so far.  But I realize that I should have wrapped the primaries from the collector end back to the manifold stubs, so that the outer ends were neater, instead of the other way round.  The last time I wrapped primaries they were a four into one integrated design, and wrapping them in the direction of flow was the only option.  Ah well, next time… I had considered getting them Zircotec coated but I thought that two weeks without the car seemed a long time.  In the event the builders parked a skiff in the drive for a few days that turned into nearly a month, and I was marooned the whole time.  Hindsight is a wonderful thing.  

I was also not sure to do about the exhaust finish – polishing did not seem quite the thing, so I was trying to get them media blasted with walnut shells to get a satin finish.  The only local source used Aluminium Oxide and then glass beads, so I went with that option.  It came out looking jolly nice however, in an industrial sort of way, and it was sympathetic to the rest of the car.  But I will probably replace the silencer in the Spring with a Raceco, since it is presently a bit noisy.  And since my last post I have decided to replace the seats with a pair of GT from Thunder Sports.  The present seats are not – puzzlingly – a pair, and although they look very similar the passenger seat is clearly the newer and has a back that is about 20mm taller.  So I think that CC must have changed the design - probably around 2008 – and if anyone has more information I would be interested.

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Interesting writeup on your CSR. I sold mine a while back and replaced it with a 620R.

I had mine re-mapped by the Two Steves and although improved, it never really got rid of the low speed kangarooing.

Do you have the additional diff support brackets fitted? I don't think they were installed as standard.

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David, thanks for taking the time to write up your thoughts, much appreciated.

you appear to enjoy tinkering as much as me and have great taste when it comes to colour choice!

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Hello Jim,

i am not sure (yet) what my map looks like, or if it has ever been updated.  I wrote to SBD to see if they could shed some light on what might be possible, and to buy an interface, but they have not replied so I will have to give them a call.  The ECU is a closed book to me at the moment, but I intend to get to grips with it in the Spring.  The kangaroo-ing was not bad after I replaced the Lambda sensor, but the Iridium Plugs made the final difference.  I also indexed them when I fitted them. It is not as easy indexing conical seated plugs as the flat washer variety, but I did it by buying 16 (!) and swapping them around until I got all the electrodes pointed in (more or less) the right direction.  I assume that I will need lots since the manual says that they should be replaced every 3000 miles, but this seems to be a bit OTT.  But if you have any insight into the ECU and engine I would be very glad to hear it.  It may be interesting that I wanted to buy a 620S, but I could not find one for sale anywhere in the Spring last year.  I only use my car on the road (it is actually my only car, since my wife is – sensibly -  unenthusiastic about me driving her car), and the CSR is probably better suited to that than a 620 would be...  but I do admire them.

i plan to pull the engine and gearbox out (or get Chapman to pull it out - I do not have a garage large enough to do it myself) in the Spring since the gearbox, although it changes nicely and the synchros are good, has a worrying attribute in that the gear lever moves forward and back slightly during power on/off transitions.  And I am sure that this means that the main shaft has picked up some endplay, which, together with the whine in third and fourth, is not conducive to peace of mind.  I talked to Philip at R&R at some length about this, and I have it booked in for April.  He said that fourth whines because of the gear design, which CC decided not to change for cost reasons.  He also said that the lightweight countershaft from Tracsport is not really worthwhile, and that he would replace the shifters if there were not of the latest standard.  No doubt this will all become clear in time… but comments are welcome.


I am also unsure about getting the engine sharpened up while it is out.  It only has 21k miles, but it is 10 years or so old.  So some advice on new bearing shells, rings, valves, oil seals etc. and whether they are worthwhile would be appreciated.


All the best,
David Poole.

I

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Hello David,

Thanks for your kind comments.  Actually, I was not totally sold on the color until I saw the CSR.  And then, as you may have read, it was love at first sight.  LOL.

I was reading your blog, and I have to say that in my experience spray cans work just as well as any other paint, as long as you do the prep properly.  The great thing about them is that the quality is really under your control,- and you can do small areas instead of the whole car when things get complicated – and expensive.

I would have been very happy with 153 bhp in any of my sixes and sevens – that was pretty good for an early BDA – and would have seemed quite electrifying to me at the time.  We have become a little more jaded since…

I actually live in the USA, and only have a holiday home with a tiny garage in the UK through Unplanned Events.  But I really like being back – I was a teenager in Weymouth before I joined the Royal Navy and finally wound up in the America.  I have a 2002 Morgan Plus 8 here as my daily driver, and I have changed the engine and just about everything else.  It came with a really wimpy and somewhat obnoxious 4.0 Aluminium V8, but I changed it to a Stage III 4.5 that makes only a little more  power than my CSR (!).  And the combination of working from home in Weymouth, meetings with the company in London, wind and kite surfing at Portland (something of a work in progress, I must admit), running on the beach and driving my CSR  has me captivated.  

Here in the USA they have the Constitution, which has Amendments.  The Fifth amendment means you can refuse to reply if the answer will incriminate or embarrass you.  So I believe that all Morgan and CSR related expenses are protected by the Fifth.  Just saying...

Good hearing from you. And do you have a picture of your car?  Here is my Morgan… but it is almost the complete opposite of a Caterham in engineering.

xlarge_65AE9DBD-A01E-40D5-B92D-E6A7EED35503.jpeg.d7620271e6cac76747ec48e3a81a7707.jpeg

All the best,

David Poole

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Hi David,

   I fitted DRL's on my motorcycle and the legislation requires that they are not in use after dark/when headlights are required. So the simple solution is a switch for the DRL's or you can use a light sensor. Either way it would be an MOT fail if continuously on when running. 

     Regards

    Pete C

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Hello Pete,

Thanks for the info on DRLs.  I read the relevant regulations, and although they seem to be a hit vague they are also clear that the DRLs should not dazzle anyone at night.  So my plan was to power them from a single-pole double throw relay, energized by the sidelight voltage, with one throw connected to the ignition bus and the other to the main beam headlight bus.  This would mean that the DRLs would go on with the ignition, and go off when the sidelight were on - except when the main beams were on, when they would act as additional main beam lighting.  Any comments about the legality of all this would be welcome....

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Hi David

just came across your blog it's very interesting reading as I also have a CSR.

You mention trying to get a "quick rack" .... my current rack has 1.6 turns lock to lock, I have an issue with a bit of play in the end bushes and ordered a new one from Caterham but like you ended up with a 2 turns lock to lock rack. After a number of conversations with caterham and Titan ( with no conclusion )  I sent the rack back. I would be interested in what they told you.

With reference to the map in your  ecu, I understand it is locked and needs " special cosworth " software to access not just an unlock code ( I believe this is what the few rolling road/engine mappers have but I stand to be corrected  )

i have bought the lead etc from sbd and you can access basic info but not the fuel or ignition maps.

Regards Adrian

 

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Hello Adrian,

That at is jolly interesting.  I ordered the race rack from CC Parts and was surprised to find that it wa a 2.0 lock to clock ratio - so I emailed Darren about it and got this reply...

Morning,
 
OK, I have some figures from the supplier on the racks:
 
60S008A – 2.41 turns, 97.04mm travel, 40.20mm per turn
60S010A – 2.07 turns, 97.04mm travel, 46.91mm per turn
 
Regards
 
Darren Phillips
Aftersales Commercial Manager
Caterham Cars

So I fitted it, but I still feel that it is a little slow.  The SV quick rack is, by repute, around 1.6 - so perhaps I can poke Titan and see if they can shed some light on it.  I would be happy to buy a 1.6 and sell mine.  As for your rack, it seems to me that you should be able to rebuild the end bushes - I had a Lotus Seven years ago and did this, but I have not taken my present rack apart to investigate the construction.

I talked to SBD and they have a new ECU with a much higher data rate and a new base map for the 260, and they offered me this as the only way to unlock the map... said the original map could not be copied.  I did not ask if they could unlock the present ECU, though.  But I do not have any interest (yet!) in fooling with the map, and there are a lot of stories about operators blowing up engines on the rolling road, so I am going to buy the monitor interface and leave everything else alone.

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