bigsi55

Oops! Seems like they are the standard 2 pot rear brake pads...

Pendennis, they are AP racing pads. I believe they are: http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=593 Thanks, Simon

Hi, Items that are sold have been updated. Thanks for the interest so far! Simon

Hi, I've sadly just sold my 2011 1.6 Sigma Academy car (metric chassis), and have a few items left over for sale. If anyone is interested please message me. I'm open to reasonable offers. General Bits: Longacre 14" wide angle rear view mirror set (used) - £35 - SOLD SPA Design Convex Mirror Left (Unused in packaging) - £25 SPA Design Convex Mirror Right (Unused in packaging) - £25 Soft Bits for Sevens Tunnel Bag - £30 - SOLD Caterham Roll Cage mounted Head Restraint - £5 Caterham Rear View Mirror - £5 Timing Strut - £5 - SOLD Crotch straps for 6 points racing harness (Luke - rated until 2016) - £5 - SOLD Left Hand Indicator mount (small lights) - £3 High Intensity LED Rain Light - £50 10mm thick wheel stripes (orange) - £5 AP Racing REAR brake pads for 2 pot calipers (unused) - £20 Sigma Specific Bits: Alternator belt for 1.6 Sigma engine (Unused in original packaging) - £25 Engine mounting rubbers (Unused in original packaging) x 2 - £15 each - SOLD Thanks! Simon Edited by - bigsi55 on 6 Dec 2012 13:21:53 Edited by - bigsi55 on 7 Dec 2012 13:09:05

Hi Mowerman, Can I put first dibs on the tunnel bag if it hasn't already gone? Thanks, Simon

Hi all, For any of you that had your money on the ECU being knackered, you win a prize! Took the ECU to Caterham Midlands today, and it basically is funked. Not great for a 15 month old car, but hey ho. Apparently this is only the second sigma ECU that has gone that they know of. I feel like I'm in a special club! Seriously though, I really appreciate all the help with the troubleshooting, makes me glad I joined the club

Hi, Just tried brushing the inertia switch wire on the battery. The fuel pump primes. Also, the fuel gauge read 50% so I now know a couple more things: Fuel pump is fine Battery is fine I have enough fuel in the tank Soooo, the problem appears to be in the wiring between inertia switch and battery. I also checked: Relays, these are all fine. I swapped them all into the light and indicator positions, and they all work fine. Fuses are also all fine. Swapped these out to check in the same way. The wire from the inertia switch goes to the starter relay. The other side of the relay goes to: Ignition switch Starter solenoid earth Engine harness Earth looks ok, engine harness I have no idea about. Would the ignition switch indicate an immobiliser problem, or any ideas where to go from here? Thanks, Simon

Hi all - thanks for all the help so far. I've done so many diagnoses on her I feel like I'm in an episode of House... The latest battery of tests reveal: Battery voltage when cranking drops to 10.6V (from 12.9ish), so that sounds OK if 9V is what you need to kick the ECU into action. Removed the fuel hose and turned the ignition on. I got a dribble of fuel from what was already in the fuel line, but no spurts of fuel from the pump, suggesting to me the fuel pump isn't being properly primed (backed up by no sound when the ignition is turned on). Checked the voltage across the FIA switch - reads 12.9 when switched off, 0 when on, which to me says it is working OK. Have checked and tightened as many earths as I could find both little and large (two by the ECU, all the fat ones under the bonnet, a couple under the scuttle on either side, the fuel tank to chassis one) and still no joy The one interesting thing I did find was when checking the voltages to the fuel pump. When the ignition is on, there only appears to be just under 5V going to the fuel pump. I can't quite understand this - I am assuming I need 12V to kick it into life. I am basing this on the voltage differences between the four wires going to the fuel pump. The four are: YG168 - which appears to be the earth - runs to the inertia cut off switch GB168 - which appears to be the live SG196 B10 The difference between SG196 and GB168 is just under 5V, and the difference between B10 and GB168 is also just under 5V. YB168 to all the others is 0. Does this shed any more light, and any ideas where 7V is being lost? Thanks, Simon

Hi all, Thanks for all the ideas. So far today I have tried the following: 1. Checked the battery voltage using a multimeter - it reads 13.1V across the terminals, which I believe is pretty good. 2. Checked all the "chunky" earths I could see - battery to bell housing, engine to engine mount 3. Took up the boot floor to see what was under there - found that the earth from the fuel tank to the boot floor had broken - so fixed that. Still won't start. I'm pretty sure the tank has enough fuel in it as I drove it into the garage about a month ago, and have since added another 5 litres just for luck. A few people have suggested the FIA switch might be the issue. How do I check that? Various other electrical bits work (lights, starter motor etc), would the FIA switch not affect these as well? Thanks, Simon

Hi Martin, when the light goes out I get what sound like four short clicks from the immobiliser unit rather than one loud click. Thanks, Simon

Pelico - I'm a bit rubbish on the electrical side of things. When I turn the ignition I get what sounds like four small clicks from behind the instruments, but I don't hear any noise coming from the fuel pump at all. I do have an FIA switch - will check it in the morning. Thanks

Hi - thanks - I am based in Bath. To start from the top: Yes, there is an immobiliser. It appears to be working as it should (lights flash, then when key is turned and fob placed under the key barrel, the light goes out). I haven't checked the voltage across the battery terminals. The trickle charger seems to indicate that the voltage is at 12V. I have also tried jump starting from another car, so I think the voltage should be correct. I believe all fat cables are secure. I will double check tomorrow. Yes, there is a master cut off switch, which is in the correct position. Millsn - how do I check the fuel pump has power? Does that require removing the boot floor? Pelico - battery appears to be fully charged - all other electrical items are working at full power, and trickle charger indicates it is charged, likewise I did try to start the car by jump starting from my other car. Thanks for the ideas - any more? Simon

Hi, This is my first post on here, so hello! and please be gentle... I have a 2011 Academy car, which I have had off the road over the winter. It was on a trickle charger all winter, and when I got it out of the garage about a month ago it started first time (I thought that was a bit lucky!). The problem is, I drove it for about 10 miles, put it back in the garage, and it now won't start whatever I do (it has been on the trickle charger since, so battery should be fully charged). The engine turns over, but I do not hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition on. I suspect the problem is electrical, but any ideas would be welcome. I have tried the following so far: 1. Added more fuel 2. Swapped all fuses 3. Swapped the relay for the fuel pump with another identical one 4. Pressed the inertia cut off switch 5. Removed the inertia cut off switch and shorted the leads (to confirm the switch isn't faulty) 6. Disconnected the speed sensor 7. Pushed the car with it in gear (to turn the starter motor over) And it still won't start. Does anyone with a bit more experience have any ideas? I have browsed through the threads on here and can't find anything else... Thanks in advance! Simon