MADMALC

I think it is all part of the charm. My 1700 X-Flow did it and also left the black gooey stuff dripping from the carbs. The air is far too clean these days, can't beat a few noxious fumes to enhance the drive.

Hi M,
I used one of these   https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/laser-camshaft-locking-tool-rover-k16-LAS2626  Cheap enough and every little bit of help for a first timer is good. I used the 'white dot' and the 'in gear with the foot brake applied' tricks as well. Take your time plus check and recheck using photographs as a start reference.

Hi M,

I was recommended to look here  http://www.bhrepairs.co.uk/  by another 7 club member.

They were good to deal with and the equipment is very good, it gives good access both front and rear. Very happy to pass on the recommendation.

The brochure shows the maximum pad positions, if you need more information just give Bill a call. 

I know these pics are upside down but I have no idea how to rotate them, I have tried for 30 minutes without any success so you will just have to stand on your heads!!!! Sorry.

Removing the ARBs is worth a try. This is what some experienced lads did at Harewood many years ago and it seemed to work. Anything you can do to remove stiffness is considered to be a good idea.

If you want adjustable dampers as standard you have to go back  in time to live axle cars when Spax were fitted!!!  Completely irrelevant I know but QI none the less. 

'Any recommendations on the removal / drilling process.' For aluminum rivets I normally use quite a large drill bit and go very slowly. You can easily see when the head is about to come off. Others recommend a drill bit the same size or a little smaller than the rivet.

Chose your weapon and do your first one somewhere out of site so you get a feel for it.

I have always had the 10% of 'sale' items, have things changed recently?

The most obvious cause will be the tyre rubbing on something. I am confident your mechanic will have no problem sorting it for you.

Is the noise from the front or rear? Left or right?

Nice one Roger, I am sorry we did not spot that when we were there but you live and learn. You just need to put it back together now. All new knowledge suitably filed for future reference.

Hi Roger, Malcolm here. I am totally confused that removing the head has not revealed the issue.

For those kind enough to post I have personally listened to the noise via a screwdriver and the 'rattle' is/was clearly coming from the the specific valve area previously identified. When the screwdriver was positioned even slightly away from this valve the noise was clearly reduced. I am baffled that the issue is not now obvious.

I do not know if this engine is still on hydraulic lifters or has solid lifters. For those more skilled than us, is there any scope for issues with the lifter system on this valve that would/could give rise to the localised noise? Other than this I will gracefully retire defeated.

Good luck with this Roger, we may see you later in the year when we visit C&E.

For the A frame bush, with the car on the ground get someone to push and pull the rear of the car violently from side to side. While they are doing this go under the car and put your thumb and first finger across the A frame bush and feel for movement.

Relatively cheap and easy to replace. If there is any sign of oil contamination I would change it.

I can recommend the Trackace as well. A little patience and care using it is required but it is very accurate.

  Obviously not required when Wrightpayne is to hand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

A job well and safely done CK.

'Whats the issue with 4 stands? Is that a Caterham specific thing?'   No. Anything with three legs is basically unstable so extra care and thought needs to be taken in all circumstances. That includes sitting on a three legged stool !!!!!!!

I know, I know, I don't mind feeding the comedians on here.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You may want to consider removing the hub, brakes and drive shafts as one complete unit. Make sure the speed sensor wire is not still attached!!!!! It is a heavy lump so easier if two of you can man handle it.

Do be careful using 4 axle stands especially if you are going under the car or using 'force' on components. In reality it is NOT safe practice so do it at your own fully assessed risk.

If you do go ahead then leave the jack under and slide the wheels under there as well just incase.

Have a look here   https://www.ultimatespecs.com/car-specs/Mazda/7593/Mazda-MX-5-Miata-(NA)-16i.html

Then out with the tape measure.

Collect from where please?

Hi G1, they knock about 2 seconds a lap of your times!!!!!

A cheap heat gun would be a good tool to get so you can check actual temperatures of the discs front and rear. If you have a brake bias valve check that is correctly adjusted. Can you lock all 4 wheels?

Hi D,

We hope you are both well and enjoying the weather. If you click on the icon in the box next to the insert smileys box labeled Upload file. It is at the top right of add new comment area. You can then pick a picture from your computer. It might come out upside down as mine did.

I will try another just for fun!!

So not upside down this time. Hope to see both again 'on the other side'.

loflmands. 

How did you do that?????? 

Thank you.

Here is mine.

I know it is upside down but I can not see how to correct it. The original file was ok and even when I rotated that it still came back like this.

The original mounts are STRONG and comply with strict regulations. If you just drill a hole and use a long bolt there is no guarantee of integrity, and when it comes to seat belts better safe than sorry.

Sorry Elie but for this purpose I think your advice is flawed.

I have just checked the build manual from that era and it just states that there are suitable attachment points on the rear cross member for the upper fasteners and to use the same attachment points for the lower fasteners. I used 1 and 3 on my car.