Ralph

Hi Ian

£190 + Vat sounds good even without a bulk buy.

Have you suppliers details .

Also like  Jonathan Kay I would like to know how hard it is to take the windscreen apart and put back together.

This information would be good before I splash the cash.

Been proding the guys at work and they came uo with UROGLAS

Looks like they do heated screens, from a logistics point of view they are in Bromsgrove, Worcestershire,

I have e-mailed enquiring about cost / procedurefor the cost of 1 plus a bulk buy cost.

Will give an update when I get an answer, At the end of the day if I can get one for under £500 I would be Happy*wobble*

Ralph

Obviously as per above I would be interested in the bulk buy idea.

I called Redline to see if they could get me a new one but apparently you have to go to Caterham for windscreens.

Also I will make enquiries at work re supplier for a bulk buy.

Ralph

Hello Barkalarr

My car is S3 1996 X-flow ex academy car. currently with the heated windscreen which i do find usfull.

Thanks for the reply 

Ralph

Just on the off chance 
Has anybody got a Windscreen (no preference to finish).

Preferably in the Berks and Bucks area due to Logistics etc. 

Thought someone may be fitting an aeroscreen and may not need the windscreen. Mine looks like a shotgun has blasted it.

Also Caterham website says no stock.

Ralph

Thanks all

Must have had a mental block don't know why I did not think of Redline.

As for the car being a lotus don't I wish although JW did say once when I took it in on one occasion the only major difference was the price and the badge.

Still hear me 1700 Super Sprint

Quick question I hope

I have a 1969 1700 original academy ax cross-flow and I need replacement Rear Wing protectors. (trying to keep car to spec)

Can I buy the ones on the Caterham Website, Stainless Steel Kit P/N WS05K or will they be a different size

Mine are imperial 10" wide

Everyone hears me / 1700 Super Sprint

Just on the off chance before I go giving Caterham loads of dosh for one head rest, has anybody got one laying around.

Its the normal Caterham S-type which is £102.00 on the caterham site.

Someone stole mine from the passanger side along with my favorite screwdriver, from outside Halfods.

White 1700 supersprint (Still running in)

Anyone interested in a set of Choke Tubes (30) and Ram pipes (Horns) they are of my DCOE 40’s. One ram pipe is slightly distorted (not the end that fits into the carb) it also does not affect tuning using a carb synchrometer

Just had carbs refurbished and engine rebuilt and fitted by Vulcan & JW

Postage in the UK is about £3.50

New these would be about £90 together but is someone needs them any reasonable offer plus the postage would be acceptable.

Now a proper 1700 Supersprint Bucks

Thank for the reply

Just got of the phone with Fastroadcars, he is going to send me one, had a bit of a chat and he said the same thing drill a little hole in the wing nut and wire it in place.

Apparently this happens a lot

Just on the off chance has anybody got a Jet Inspection Cover for a DCOE40 lying around. (The one with the butterfly Nut) Part No 4 on the drawing , code 32376.003

Should I use bit of loctite?

Hi Alex

Just to be clear as I am slightly slow on the uptake sometimes.

Are you saying you should see yellow about 1/4 turn back from when it’s blue?

Since I have serviced them they have become very sensitive 1/4 turn seems to change the colour from one to the other.

White 1600XF LA Still original Engine

Just serviced my pair of DCOE 40’s on my 1600 X-Flow

The car is now running a hell of a lot faster and quieter than before except that on acceleration between 2000 – 3500 revs it hesitates just a tad.

From experience does anyone know if a rich setting or a lean setting would cause this?

(I have new plugs, HT leads, Dizzy cap and coil)

I am using colour tune and have them set up about a half turn past when the colour turns blue from yellow.

White 1600XF LA Still original Engine.

Thanks for all the input

I will be ordering the following if anybody is wondering about part No's etc I have also decided to go with some nice red fuel pipe.

Name Part No

STUDS STUD1

Thackery washers CSA004

NYLOC UNF5/16 LN516

Mounting Plates & Rings CSP002

2 x Kits SK2202

1600XF on 40's

Thanks for the help Guy’s

I think at the very minimum I will need new studs, nuts, cups and rubbers and I think I will add the Misab Plates as per John and Crudders suggestion.

By the way Kenny I love the nice shiny braded fuel lines were did you get them?

1600X-Flow on DCOE 40’s

I think I may have an air leak!

One of my carburettors is spitting when cold and the engine dies when hot for example if I pull of a motorway and stop at the end of the slip road.

Engine has been tuned and most of the ignition system replaced, but I did have trouble getting the carbs balanced.

My Question is this:-

The carburettors seem to be attached to the manifold with studs and a Nylock at each end on the topside but only one nylock underneath the carburettor.

Is this correct or am I right in thinking their should be nuts underneath and I need to buy a new set of studs and nuts as the ones I have are rusty.

Also would I have to buy new seals and would I need to replace anything else as it seems I may have to remove the carbs.

1600X-Flow on 40’s

Don’t think it’s the tappets, I am sure of one thing and that is the rings are gone as one pot is 70 PSI lower than the rest. (Did the wet test and the psi goes up about 30 PSI)

They are all a lot lower than two years ago when the last owner had them checked and number 2 pot was lower on a second test I did a few weeks after the 1st test

Thanks Gordon / Peter

I think you have just confirmed what I already suspected; I have been running it since I bought it a year ago, it’s always had a slight rattle at the front of the engine.

Unfortunately for me the bag of nails sound has only been noticeable since last week when I took a Blat down the M4, sounds more like a sewing machine than a seven and is as loud as the exhaust.

Time to get my spanners out I guess

Just need a bit of practical advice, I know I need to send the engine to Vulcan for a rebuild (145 Spec) but can’t afford it yet. Rings are shot and engine sounds like a bag of nails.

My question is should I continue to drive it (still starts with no problem) or am I likely to do any more damage to me or the car.

I can just get the engine out and refurbish other bits of the car until I get some more cash as I am now one of Gordon Browns statistics.

White 1600XF (Soon to be White 1700XF)

Ital Axle shiuld have a thread.

I replaced one not so long ago, the last owner changed the axle but broke the breather in the process.

Ital Axle shiuld have a thread.

I replaced one not so long ago, the last owner changed the axle but broke the breather in the process.

Ital Axle shiuld have a thread.

I replaced one not so long ago, the last owner changed the axle but broke the breather in the process.

Ital Axle shiuld have a thread.

I replaced one not so long ago, the last owner changed the axle but broke the breather in the process.

Ital Axle shiuld have a thread.

I replaced one not so long ago, the last owner changed the axle but broke the breather in the process.

Thanks Guys

I think from reading this it sounds like I should DIY the engine and save myself £500.00 plus and do it myself, I just need to take a deep breath.

I would be interested if anybody else has done this themselves using Vulcan, and if they learnt anything from the experience.

Also any ideas on the current best buy for a crane.

Ralph 1600XF soon to be 1700XF