philwaters

I spoke to Redline yesterday and they are expecting a batch in in the next couple of weeks. I will be going the route after thinking about it for a while - normally just after changing the bushes. So guess what I did this weekend and mine always end up as a fight (I suspect the diff plates are a little tight on my Ford axle).

Phil

That's Nigel - heading back after the ReHaB weekend in Wales :-)

I fitted a RIF one (which doesn't help you much now) but a couple of friends are looking to do the same on similar cars - Ultimate Carbon will do an un-cut blank as will MOG I think.

Hi,

Yes, in theory, with one possible exception. Are you running a blacktop or silvertop at the moment as a new engine is highly likely to be a blacktop and they do differ (engine mounts and exhaust).

If you have a blacktop then a 2lt blacktop should drop straight in.

As an aside, I'm running a high power Zetec on a Ford axle and haven't needed to strengthen the chassis at all - I don't think you need to worry about that area, especially at the 175-190hp kind of range (I'm at 230)

I'd have to check, but I'm pretty sure I've got a washer between the arm and the chassis - I've got about 2-3mm clearance to the skin of the car.

Hi,

Can't help with the sale, but if it is just the snatch'y'ness of that clutch then Helix do an organic and a sprung organic 7.25" clutch. That's what I have fitted and it is just like a normal clutch pulling away in traffic - no need for loads of revs everytime!

57-1001 plate (sprung organic 7.25" 25.4-23T (Ford) plate) and a 63-210GTP cover (the TP is to suit a flat CRB).

Those are the numbers I'm using on my Zetec to a Type9 gearbox... might be a starting point.

It's been a while, but I always remember them being really tight and hard to move. If memory serves, they only rely on friction, no locking nut. A long bar with gradual pressure is better than tapping with a hammer which is more likely to bend the spanner. Can you get a socket and use a large wrench with a set-down adaptor as required?

I know you've changed the plugs, and this is a very long shot, but have you checked the gaps and tried closing them up? My engine (albeit a Zetec) wouldn't rev at all until I closed the gap up from 1.0mm to 0.8mm.

Straw - clutched....

Quite a few in the ReHaB area are running Helix and happy with them.

I fitted a 7.25" Helix over the winter and they do a sprung organic plate to match which handles the 230hp/175lb from my car no problem. I didn't fancy a snatchy clutch so hunted around for an organic (they also do an unsprung organic plate).

Can be tricky to find info, but if you download the catalog from the dealer, Mardi Gras, you can compare info: http://www.mardigras.co.uk/rclutch.htm

I run 350lb on the front, but I have widetrack, so this is reduced to more like 250lb I think, compared to standard track.

On the rear I run 110lb, but you might want ot have a read of this - I had Avo rears and found them far too stiff on the damping: http://www.our-nest.co.uk/Caterham/html_files/2008_ProTech.htm

The old standard rears were 90lb I believe, but I may be wrong. You should be able to grab hold of the rollbar and bounce the rear of the car quite a lot - if you can't then I would suspect the dampers (but worth removing a spring and having a measure & calculation).

Hi Tom,

Sorry, haven't logged in for a while.

I've not heard of this before. Have you tried using a small about of lubricant on the rubber where it meets the wing - it sounds like things are moving as you do the fixings up and the rubber is grabbing onto the wing surface rather than sliding along with the fixing.

Phil

Yep - fits the cage and brooklands well

Long nose Shower cap received this morning

Hi Garf,

Very timely post - didn't get much interest, but I should get your ones next week and I'll then polish them up. My supplier has been very slow, so I was going to wait until I had them in my hands before posting anything...

I'll take the long nose shower cap if still available - if it is the one that goes to the front suspension, covering the bonnet.

Phil

I copied it Guy 

I did add a lock-wire on the nut inside -drilling at an angle to go through the straight coupling part.

http://www.our-nest.co.uk/Temp/Gearbox%20Dipstick/Gearbox%20Dipstick%2003.JPG

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone has fitted these a little bit higher up the wing?

I've got some taller than normal guards which means fitting these normally would uncover the current rivet holes.

I'm just going to lock-wire the nut on the underside (once I get my gearbox back)

I can't help with data, and I am always careful not to say 'twice as bright' etc, as that'll depending on your bulbs, etc.

I can't say I have noticed any heat - The bowls are only thin and then open to atmosphere. Next time I am in the garage I'll put them on for 5 mins and check the bowl. I've run them since May last year and not had any issues.

Pic of opening up the diameter to suit:

https://goo.gl/photos/Aodu173Rr5ddxTyq9

Hi, glad you are pleased. I like mine...

I can't see a cable tie in that photo Tony... did you crop it out?

Bought the parts today - just waiting to get my box back from Phil @ R&R

Possibly - but don't they have to be checked and x-rayed on a regular basis?

Diff is sprung mass on a LA, so weight removed helps the ride and response to bumps, etc...

Gearbox - just a pipe dream. Besides, the gearbox is one of the few original things left on my car!

Message sent

I did look for the Tracksport axle to post a link to, but I couldn't find it. Last time I spoke to Steve he didn't have any of the brake conversions kits, so perhaps the demand for axle stuff outside of the norm isn't there.

I'm having thoughts about Ali diff nose and gearbox casings at the moment... pricey, but light