philwaters

I had mine done by Zircotec, near Oxford. Nice finish and has held up well, but it has a few marks on it. If I was doing it again I would go with a silver or black colour. Too long ago for the price to be relevant, but it wasn't / isn't cheap

Not this week, but I have been in communications with Karl up until the 24th April, so they were around, but not sure if things have in the past week.

Thank you Ralph, that very kind. My car has been a bit of a journey, but that's a lot of the fun for me. And yes, JW TRE's on my car

I can recommend powder coating. I did my hubs and uprights a couple of years ago and with a gloss clear coat, they are really easy to keep clean compared to the normal finish.

If you have vertical play at the pinion end then you can adjust it via the large nut and locknut on top of the rack. However, I had the same thing - vertical play only at the opposite end to the pinion.

You have to strip the rack completely but punching the pinion out via the Ali disc - as the bearing it sits in is a tight fit. The bush at the end of the rack is an Igus part, but it is a custom part for Titan, who happily sold one to me, along with new bearings. I bought a new Ali disc off eBay - 31mm x 0.9mm I think it was. I dealt with a Brian in Sales and the bush part number was BLP-141-620-10-A4

Wanted or for sale Andy? 

Yes, you should really run a pressure regulator when you use an electric fuel pump on a carb car to prevent the pump over coming the float valve and over-filling the chamber. You can use something like this: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/sytec-pro-fuel-pressure-regulator-10mm-pf-reg-6

It just needs to go in the fuel supply pipe from the pump, before the carbs. The scales are a bit of a guess, but you should be okay setting it at around 3 or 3.5 to begin with.

In that case, cutting into the negative is probably the easiest way. If you cut into the live but don't have the resistor I think you could damage the alternator if you try to isolate while it's running (but don't quote me on that... )

The normal way is to cut into the positive side, with a high wattage resistor then connected to ground on one of the smaller terminals. This way, you cut the circuit and also dump the output from the alternator to ground to prevent any running on.

If you just want to isolate the battery, then I guess either way would work, but if you want to have it as an emergency cut-off to switch off the engine from outside of the car, then I think you need the alternator connection/resistor.

There is a diagram on this thread https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/battery-cut-switch-0

Rally Design sell them

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4662 - £1.35 each, with the washer - it's where I bought the set I use with my MB's

I don't tend to, but you could have a play later on - from memory they auto-set the fuel cut-off point and something else... if you are just trying to get things set up for the first time I'd leave them for now and revisit those settings separately later on.

With an Emerald you tend to set the TPS using the software - Setup -> Throttle Position Sensor. Then follow the instructions on screen (but basically hit Ok and then apply full throttle and then done, and it logs closed and open positions - all with engine not running).

That was me - on my way to TSK. Was a dull drive, but got the miles done. Sorry about the jam, I made a mental note to avoid it on the way home, then realised I was on the train anyway - feels odd leaving my 7 elsewhere!

You may have the same problem when doing them back up - once the nylon starts to bite it can cause it to spin. I keep an old nut with the nylon removed for doing up tight enough for the taper to engage and then spin it off and fit the nyloc.

I'm very pleased with the quality of my Ultimate Carbon front and rear wings. Bit difficult to reach, but good products

Might be worth talking to David at Classic Carbon - he might be able to help.

https://classiccarbon.co.uk/

Yeah, I know - but I couldn't track down one of the flat tanks. I think you could have a flat plate bolted down to the middle of the X part and then a slight bend on the end to match the tanks bracket and mount off of that - it would all be underneath and out of sight.

Mines an S3 - 1996 Classic with a Zetec in it.

The bracket could be nicer - it was a rush and then you never see it for months at a time.

Hi,

I made the Freelander one fit using a simple little bracket - see pics below.

I've just roughly measure the dia as 175mm and the height is 160mm, but I did cut off a bit of the little flange around the bottom to allow it to sit lower

Nice 

Always great to see how people personalize their 7's in so many unique ways.

I agree, more likely to be have been running lean - have you had it on a RR since fitting the cams?

New batch has been announced 

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/sale/arnie%E2%80%99s-tre-top-joints

For those interested, Jack, Arnie’s son, is doing a new batch of the top suspension joint and the track rod ends, which make adjustment for bump steers easier.

https://www.jackwebbmotorsport.co.uk/

No connection other than I’ve ordered a set of both and thought those not on FB might be interested also.

Phil

Another option could be to wet dip them (hydro-dipped). See if there is someone near you doing this as they often have sample swatches so you could see/compare it first.

For example

http://www.hydrodip.com/shop/water_transfer_printing_film_for_sale/metal/

Second the wheel nut comment by JNC.

I have read about the powder coat squashing up, the nuts are then lose and the wheel comes off - not ideal.

Phil