Phil G

lift the front end. Release the nut at the TRE and mark it's original position (tape, pen or simply count the number of threads.....anything that remembers your original position).

There are a couple of flats on the rack end of the rod to aid unwinding. Unwind rod until it's free from the TRE and slide off old gaiter. Reverse assemble.

Rubber lube or WB40 is your friend when trying to slide rack end over the casing. It's a pig TBH and a lot of swearing may occur, but it will fit. A second pair of hands can be useful and a small pry-bar to stretch the gaiter.....take care not to pierce rubber!

Apologies.....I have history of only reading last few posts.  

9 years old..!

Deleted and moved to correct post.

Edit. WTF am I responding to a 5 9 year old thread. 🤪

Don't ya just love Caterhams.......not one the same!

30 minutes ago, BigCol said:

My steering wheel has the holes as per the apices of a Give Way sign, rather than a Warning road sign…. is that the case with yours too?

Blimey Col, had to look those signs up on tinternet....been a long time!

My Momo drilling was as per warning sign, however, the Go-Race was the opposite if you want the logo facing upwards. Not that it matters to me as i don't have a steering lock. Not even sure if a steering lock will impact the location of the column TBH (someone else may know this).

I fitted one of these recently and accidently pushed the lower bush out when sliding in the new column. Replacing this is a delicate operation as it appears to slot into a recess. After much swearing, I realised that the column to the UJ was not perfectly aligned, and no amount of wiggling in-situ would make the two come together. Solution was to remove lower section and fit to new column then slide the whole assembly back into the UJ. 

Note. My boss to Momo fitting was reversed, therefore, I  marked the UJ and turned 180deg. Have yet to run it down the road to check alignment (still SORNd).

Edit.

This is the slot that fits to the column.

Not sure what the long slots' function is given David's comments about the welded collar. Maybe its for wires to exit when paddle-shift or indicators are wired through column....thoughts?

I wanted to delete a post where I had made an error; however, I could not find a tab that allowed this function.

Does it exist? If not, can it be considered as, surely, the writer should be in control of their posts and have the ability to remove as opposed to simply editing.

I'm referring to members comments, not originator's topic.

9 minutes ago, dave-canada-slr said:

 

Duplicate post - edit

The tab is on the bottom and will not stop tipping down, only up! Or did you mean that you tried it without hooking the tab under the mounting bracket?   It has a marginal function of stopping movement whilst tightening the bolt, however, this is only effective on the N/S. IMHO naturally.

Just wind it up to rally tight and it won't budge.

TBH the tab serves little purpose. I wouldn't bother trying to fold back. 

Like the Thundersport Half-hood a lot, however, I was never keen on the side strap fitting method and changed mine to the SBfS popper style.

The tab is often a bit tight and needs to be give a tweek to widen the gap. May not be your issue but worth a go!

6 hours ago, David JLM said:

Not from personal experience, but in researching half-hoods, I read that some people stuck felt material on the underside of the hood, rather than putting something on the roll-bar. 

Felt - that's what I used. Fixed to underside of hood with double sided tape.

Hi Rob,

Sorry to hear about all your troubles. It's situations like this that that highlight how far Caterham have to go to restore customer confidence (take heed Mr Lashley).

For such a young car to show this level of corrosion, it make me wonder where, and how, it was stored during it's short life. I have seen cars that live near the coast to show atypical decay, however, in this case it may simply be neglect......not from you, obviously 

All the previous advice is sound and I sincerely hope this experience has not put you off Seven ownership. 

On 04/12/2023 at 15:58, Old Caterhamian said:

Very similar solution. After wasting a day as you described, CC advised me to use a thin long screwdriver (found cheap one on amazon) to hold the top of bmw diff, gives more movement whilst sorting bottom bolts. Then once bottom bolts are finger tight, use the persuader knock the top bolt in (and screwdriver out).

The top bolt is held in bushes that flex as you knock the top bolt in, so with bit of force it lines up.

K Series cylinder bolts are just the ticket!

How do I delete a duplicate comment?????

Whist said with tongue firmly in cheek there was an element of truth in what I suggested......as John will attest. 

The SOP appears to be brute force Mark.

Assuming you're replacing like for like........

Mount diff onto carrier first > grind a slight taper on the long bolt > install lower mount hand tight with appropriate spacer washers > offer up long bolt and belt the s**t out of it > swear a lot when the spacer washers drop out > apply band-aid to grazed knuckles!

I have a sneaky suspicions it's my auto fill being a bit keen!

https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/

I keep getting this message when logging in from my iPhone, despite the fact that it has successfully allowed me access!

Ditto #2

Spot-on JK

A few more from the same gathering.

Boppard last Saturday.

Big Head fasteners.