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diggerman

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Posts posted by diggerman

  1. DJ

     

    I sometimes get it in from below. Squeezing hard can be fun too. As an alternative, and if your feeling kinky, try it from above! 🥰

     

    PS I don't understand the bit about it running down your arm, that's beyond my experience.

     

    PC

  2. When my 150 Roadsport was about the same age I had similar difficulty with the immobiliser. One day it packed up completely and I had to trailer the car to Dartford to get it replaced under warranty. Suggest you speak to them and arrange warranty replacement before you have same experience!

     

    Peter

  3. My once lumpy hard to drive 150 was transformed by a visit to Caterham Midlands. It is now possible to drive in traffic without constantly slipping the clutch. Changing to a BMW diff with no backlash, made It even better. It now drives like dream, pops and bangs beautifully and is an all round bute

     

    Peter

  4. Andrew,

     

    Hope you enjoyed your cuppa,

     

    Looking at mine now! Perhaps it's not the same as I have the standard top and bottom hoses but a small dia third rad connection immediatly beside the top hose. So my connections as follows.

     

    Small dia rad connection, adjacent to top hose, routed to top of the expansion tank via a tee piece and to the rear of the cylinder head, under air intakes and between cam cover and distributor.

     

    Hose from bottom of expansion tank to front connection on nacelle with tee to rearmost connection in side of block. (just behind bottom hose connection to block)

     

    Hose from rear nacelle connection to top of heater control valve.

     

    Hose from top of heater control valve to top heater connection.

     

    Shaped hose from rear of engine block to bottom of heater control valve.

     

    Hose from bottom of heater control valve to bottom of heater.

     

    Suggest you instal the main top and bottom hoses first then route all the minor hoses alongside were possible so that they can be clipped together. Also clip to chassis members to prevent movement and rubbing.

     

     

    Hope this helps and happy building, summer is nearly here!

     

    Peter

     

  5. There are two things I have read on Blatchat at regular intervals over the last two years. Drilling holes in thermostats and blanking off areas of radiator

     

    I'm my opinion both actions are fundementally wrong.

     

    The thermostat is fitted to prevent the majority of engine coolant passing through the rad until the specified working temperature is reached. Typically 80 deg C. If working properly, it will then open allowing coolant in to the radiator. If driven hard it will fully open, if the rad can't keep up with the amount of heat produced then fan will start.

     

    So if the stat is working there is no point in blanking part of the rad area as if working temp has not been reached the rad is largely switched off.

     

    Equally, if the stat is working, drilling extra/ larger holes in it will only have the effect of slowing the rise to working temp, or worse prevent it from being reached at all.

     

    I suspect that many cases of engine temp problems are associated with failed, or partially failed stats. They can have quite short lives. But I can't see any circumstances where drilling the stat or blanking the rad is the right thing to do.

     

    Having said all that, air locks really must be avoided as this results in localised hot spots which are the cause of many cylinder head problems.

     

    Peter

  6. Apologies to the traditionalists, but the third diff (after two horrible Quaifes) on my Roadsport 150 is a silky smooth BMW diff with no backlash and no whine. Sublime *wink*

     

    PeterC

  7. Being Irish I drink the REAL thing, Whiskey! here

     

    It puts hair on your chest and fires you up to dig holes in the road, quite good for me bearing in mind my profession in the earth moving business.

     

    Still like the new badge.

     

    Peter

     

    PS have decided to commence building a fire wall to fend off incoming flak.

     

    PPS Bushmills have been producing WhiskEy since 1608. Probably the oldest working distillery in the world, at least 100 years older than the oldest Scottish equivalent. Bushmills, pure nectar.

     

     

    Edited by - diggerman on 12 Feb 2012 08:46:39

     

    Edited by - diggerman on 12 Feb 2012 08:49:35

  8. My Sigma engined Roadsport with plastic and Ali rad has developed a small leak on the top plastic tank seal. I have tuned up the crimp a little with a pair of pliers and I think it's done the trick. Seem to be trouble these rads?

     

    PeterC

  9. I had the same problem shortly after putting my 150 on the road. Spoke to Sean at Caterham and he sent a new rad the next day. That has been perfect for the last 8000 miles.

     

    When I fitted the new rad, I made absolutely sure that it was mounted with no twisting forces being imposed. This was achieved by using thin washers between rad and mountings so that all four mounting points clamp up simultaneously.

     

    I wouldn't recommend messing about with an attempted repair.

     

    Peter C

  10. I had same prob with my Sigma 150 when I first started it18 months ago. The problem was that the ECU was wrongly mapped. Caterham were very relaxed about this. They instructed me to complete the build and they would sort the map at the post build check. After 5 mins on the Cterham mids laptop all was fine. I know of others who have also experienced this.

     

    Am a bit more puzzled by you comment on oil pressure. You should crank the engine with no ignition for as long as it takes for the oil pressure to rise. This may take 20 plus seconds. Do this in several bursts with a good gap in between so that you don't stress either the starter motor or the battery. Once all the oil chambers and the oil filter are full of oil the pressure should go up quite suddenly to normal working pressure. At this stage top up the oil level and then when you reset the cut off switch the engine should fire up and full oil pressure be obtained straight away.

     

    If in doubt leave the start up to the Caterham checkers.

     

    Don't worry about it ..... All will be well!

     

     

    PeterC

  11. I also had problem with slow tick over on my 150. Discovered from guys at Caterham mids that adjusting the screws is not the solution. You need to make the adjustments with a laptop. They did it for me. It took about 5 mins and that transformed the drivability of the car.

     

    PeterC

  12. Used masking tape round the perimeter of the washers to hold them together like one fat washer. Hung the diff from top bolt and used trolley jack to push it against the rubber bushes sufficient to make up the couple of mm. Second bolt then went home with light taps from soft faced hammer. Also smeared bolts with copper grease so that they can be removed when you discover how noisy the diff is *confused*

     

    PeterC

  13. My BMW diff was fitted back in May and I have since driven it to the Isle of Man gig, on a west country tour and to and from Lausanne as well as many other miles just messing about. It's a different car to the crude beast I built 18 months ago. Caterham Midlands fitted the diff while I waited. Although having a cast iron body it is tiny compared to the Sierra diff and even with it's carrier I would be very surprised if it's any heavier. The change is expensive but the result is a quality car that drives like a £25,000 car should.

     

    PeterC

  14. OK, I have slandered you ....... Sorry!

     

    On reflection I do remember seeing the 1927 Ford, and yes you were being very careful. Nice to see you passing through our territory.

     

    PeterC

  15. The yellow car was probably the wife and I (roadsport 150SV) on route to Laussane. It was a brill drive with hardly any traffic and just a few rain showers. On the way back in a few days time.

     

    PeterC

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