Peter G

Flasher relay on my 1.8VVC K series (originally a 1.6k from year 2000) has failed, the unit is a 3 pin made by Wehrle and quotes 2/4x21W, which I don’t seem to be able to replicate from on line motor factors. Not keen on a 20 mile trundle to the nearest Halfords right now, so Would the wiring have been Rover derived originally, and how should I spec a new one or just phone Redline? 

Many thanks

BTTT!

Ed and Bricol you both have messages.

The best thing to do for duplicate posts, (or triplicate posts ) is to edit the ones you don’t want.

BTTT

We've got a set of 4 newly refurbished wheels with Avon winter tyres on, genuine Mazda Arctic 15" wheel in pristine condition, on ebay, link https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324373303109

Light use over 2 winters, almost full tread left, looking for £425.00.

Thanks

This is a brand new ready for painting wing bought from Caterham a few years ago, with the old style cut out on the bottom edge.

£75.00, plus delivery, or collect from Bedfordshire.

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I’ve sold the 2 front wings, so have just the one rear (nearside) used wing left. It needs a bit of work to repair and then a  bit of paint. If you’re interested let me know and I can send more pictures over to you.

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Apologies for the picture being rotated. I have more photos that I can send to anyone interested.

Reduced to £20.00 for the rear. Wings are in Bedfordshire.

I’ve got a brand new unused unpainted nearside wing, picture on my blog on here apparently, couldn’t get it to you to before middle of October though??

I ended up doing the first bit and it felt a bit tighter, and when it fired up the lower section of belt below the water pump was moving around quite a bit, I realise the longer length from the exhaust cam to the crank pulley is in tension, but I couldn’t see that with the bottom cover on. I’ll leave it for now it’s still worn till June 1st, so I’ll give it a gentle run and then have another look and if needs be put a bit more tension on it. Thanks Ian.

Thanks for all the pointers everyone, belts all changed and all seems good, but before I fire it up, how is the tension on the manual belt tensioner set? The spring I have with it doesn’t seem to move the backing plate much and it’s leaving the belt loose in my view, any ideas?

Our MX5 is for sale, as now we're both retired we just don't use it. It's only been out for an MOT in the last year otherwise sat in the garage.

Full ad on Pistonheads https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/mazda/mx-5-mk2/mazda-mx-5-nb-arctic------------------2005/10545184

Asking price was £3250 now £3000

Some service history from early days, but all done by yours truly in recent years, including gearbox and diff oil change and the fuel filter, loads of receipts to back it up.

Hardtop to match also available by negotiation. Private plate will come off and hopefully we can get the original 05 plate back on it.

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Thanks again gents, much appreciated, garage tasks have been lowered down the list of other "projects" for a while, hopefully next week to get this done.

Andrew, Rimmer Bros have these shown on their website, but you could also try Brown and Gammons, who are cheaper, good service too.

A couple of questions before I set to on changing the cambelts, firstly is there more than one type of belt tensioner on this engine? If there are options, how do I know which one to get? (I remember on my 1.6K there were 2 options)

Secondly, whats the best way to change the rear belt? When I did it last time the engine was out of the car and we removed one of the pulleys, as there's a lip on one of the pulleys, obviously to stop the belt coming off.

Thanks all, I've got the pulley lock for the front end, and doing the job should be ok, having done it twice before, apart from now having to do the job with the engine in.

I just wonder what he's going to get up to next now he's locked in the house????

Thanks Andrew, I don’t understand all of that but I’ll take your conclusion and use the right oil.

PG

He’s gone quiet because he’s been for an MOT!

And it passed which is good.  Thanks for the tip Steven Long, very friendly little garage, apparently someone was there recently and ran out of fuel during the test, wonder who that was then Longy? Mind you mine did the K series click part way through and refused to start for 5 minutes.

The rev light is now working fine, but shall we say that it wasn’t paid a lot of attention during the test. 

The fitting was new about 4 or 5 years ago so is in good condition, but after jiggling and fiddling with wires, the light is now working just fine. Finger crossed for the MOT.

Thanks for the help, just got to put it all back together again now.