Peter G

On 22/04/2024 at 09:50, SM25T said:

You don't need to split the ball joint ! Crack the lock nut and unscrew the tie rod from the track rod end.

Newer track rods don't have flats on them, I recently replaced mine to take out play in the rack, sourced from Caterham.. 

On 16/02/2024 at 20:34, Colin_T said:

It should at least get you back in the range of adjustment to suit the length of the new spring. then you can adjust your ride heights back to how they were before. 

Just what I'll be doing, thanks for the comment.

Thanks, In the end I dropped the Adjuster section down one groove to get the spring on. it'll be interesting to see the ride height when I've done the other side.

Are there different length springs for standard Bilstein and for those with adjustable platforms, I'm fitting new springs, rears have gone on a treat but the fronts look like I need a spring compressor to get the top retainer back on??

Thansk for all the comments. Very useful and helpful. Not going with it at this stage. Other upgrades are on their way right now. 

What's the collective view and experience on Polybushes or similar and their effect on ride and handling, in place of the standard rubber ones?

My 7 is solely for road use if that makes a difference.

Just another option, if you have adjustable platforms on the rear, they can foul the De Dion tube, the lower mounting bolts need an extra washer or 2 so the shocks clear the tube,.

Still looking. Happy to buy a pair. Would be useful to have algal tyre on it too. 

I have a pair too but as I now wear glasses they're no use to me  reasonable condition and I believe all complete. 

I had a small dent on the bonnet and got rid of it (almost) by putting the affected area on a cushion, and rubbing the inside of the dent with a duster. Worth a try I'd say?

Thanks all, I did reply last night but the message didn't post, new washers being sourced.

Chaps. Some advice please. My 2000 K series imperial 7 has adjustable platform shocks on them and the adjuster sleeve is fouling on the de dion tube. The shocks are bolted to the lower mounting, I also have a through mounting on the de dion. Any ideas how I can stop the fouling? Is it possible to move the adjuster sleeve up and still have the same ride height? Or should I use the centre de dion mount and adjust the ride height?  Or just ad more washers? Thanks.

Thanks for all the comments. I've not had the relay mod done and its been doing this on and off for years. Definitely going to look at all the above and if it's still a bit iffy get the relay mod done. The starter is 23 years old so probably needs  bit of love and attention.

Ok, next problem!

The starter on my 2000 K series has a strange problem, not the infamous K Click. It will sometimes just click when pressing the starter button, then go on the next press. Or sometimes as today refuse to turn over at all. But If I put it into 2nd gear and rock it,  it'll start straight away. I'm intending to remove it, clean terminals and earths all round and lubricate the (I think its called) bendix mechanism as I suspect it's this that might be causing the problems. 

Any opinions on this course of action or any other things I should look out for or do?

TIA

Thanks Wrightpayne, just done that. Saved me £10 no doubt. Can spend that now on super unleaded! This club is the dogs doo-dahs!

The cap from my washer bottle has gone awol, does anyone know where the bottles are sourced from, so I can look to get a new cap?

Jonathan, both old headlights are now off, and the DRL is integral, I'll take pics when its all done.

I also need to fit a battery master switch I've had for more years than I'm going to admit to. But I've done one headlight via the tad yemp switch. So tomorrow I'll do the other one. 

Thanks all. 

Ian. I think I may have to go that way but there's always the risk of leaving the lights on and if overnight then a flatish battery.

Jonathan its a 2000 year K series I have a wiring diagram for 2001 onwards, if you have one for 2000 year I'd be very grateful for it but I suspect there won't be much difference. 

I am thinking of using the feed to the rad fan switch which is close enough and ignition switched live. Any possible problems with this that I may not be aware of?

Ive just fitted JAL LED rears with the original red and orange lenses, and I have a high level LED light bar on the roll bar, so I think the back end is as well protected as it can be. The car being a bright shade of Orange helps visibility too, but looking forward to having DRLs on the front, 

Where have people taken the feed from for the DRL on LED replacement headlamps? I don't want use the old sidelight feed as I'd have to have side and rear lights on all the time. So where is a suitable switched live nearby to feed into so they run as designed? Or do I need to go back to the fuses under the dash?

TIA

Thanks gents. Only just seen the messages. I'm thinking it might be easier to buy a pair and sell one on? If so I'll be in touch Stewart!

Indeed I did. But having had to butcher the backplates to use them again to use the lens cover screws attached to the original backplate there's no way I'll now be retrofitting. Had new econoseals with the kit I bought which needed the terminals feeding though to the right place. Not quite plug and play but not too difficult. 

Next, LED headlamps!

Thanks Nick, Youtube came to my rescue on this.