alan c

Based on experience I would source them direct from AP or one of their dealers, I had quality issues with others

Apologies been busy so slow to reply

Cannot access the car to double check but fairly sure the ECU is an MBE but not sure which one. I bought it second hand a long time ago. The loom was ready made and I think I got that from SBD.

I converted my VX engined car in stages to make it a little easier on the wallet. Did ECU, wiring loom and conversion  to 3D ignition as stage 1. Loom had all connections for next stage.

Then later I converted to Jenvey TB’s and the tank in my car was already set up so I did not have that issue which was very handy as I have a non standard “ saddle “ tank in mine but that is a different story.

if I did it again I would go with the TB’s that look like standard Weber 45’s

I had a similar experience when I went to a mapped ignition on a VX16V engine running twin 45's. Little if any change in power but more drivable and mpg improved

The ECU I had was overkill for what was required but I always had in mind to go to full injection which I then did some years later.

I had mine welded by local garage many years ago, with the wing off and some protection it was done in situ. 
They had been cut down and welded previously and one joint failed but no reason why same approach should not work, think we put a bit of steel bar in the tube to help.

Not sure about that but there are some poor copies around so in my view make sure they are genuine AP items

Mark,

I have had some issues with my AP discs, most recent set was sourced for me by Premier Power who had the car at the time and I believe he got them direct from AP

cheers

Alan

PS Are you and the local sevens group going to Snetterton for the caterham racing in August?

Spotted red 7 on A850 this morning, you had to turn round like us due to road closure for the Portree half marathon 

happy blatting - roads looks great 

When I purchased my first 7 it had the old style hood and doors and it was a straight swap to fit new hood and doors.

It was an S3 but not as old as yours.

Thar said do you need the hood, just buy new doors and a half hood 

Jonathan

someone has done what you are suggesting but my searches for the old thread are not finding it

I did this a while ago now and from memory it is just possible to fix the Chanel's under the floor using the existing bolt holes then you need to drill new holes for the new seat mounting points. The Chanel's are also held in place with rivets, the chanel is pre drilled but you will need to drill through the floor. It all took some time to get aligned.

There was a thread on here a while ago and someone made up steel (I think) plates that picked up the existing mounts and lay inside the car providing a steel section running front to back that the new seat can sit on.

I have been running them for a while, give me all the grip I need. We do some long trips and need something that can cope with everything Inc heavy rain and they have been fine for us.

So far as I am aware it's correct description is C20XE regardless of being on carbs or throttle bodies. Mine started on carbs but is now on TB's

i think I got the sump baffle system for mine from jubu to replace the foam.

i would say you will be fine with some mild upgrades, some people have taken this engine up to close to 300hp

When you say VXi do you mean the twin cam often called red top or C20XE?
if so I would say if in ok condition the bottom end will be ok at those levels. I have this engine and it ran in standard form with Stage 1 Swindon cams and was good for about 180. 
Had it rebuilt by premier power, head has work done, bottom end rebuilt and balanced, lighter flywheel but same cam and standard valves and it went to 220.

so head work and new cams should be close to what you are looking for but pistons may need pockets cut.

talk to Stuart at Premier Power and he will help, there is a VX enthusiast on his team

At some point they also changed the location of the damper mount so depending on age of current one that may or may not be an issue

Sorry for slight thread high jack but question for jigsaw - what are you using as the handbrake caliper?

i have the old AP set up and the handbrake caliper is useless so a good replacement would be nice.

Disc run out is different to minimum thickness as #7 said latter should be stated on the disc. If you cannot find this I have a set off the car I can dig out and get the data off them.

The vented discs are actually an AP disc and you can source from them, beware anything not from AP.

Or use a nut splitter to cut the nut then it will come off easily 

I have one as well and I also saved a set of instructions on how to remove when someone posted them years ago. Believe they are still on my pc somewhere.

Not tried or tested by me but if anyone wants a copy send me a message with your email and I will send them.

Alan

I have located said steering wheel and I would say the outside diameter is just over 11in. I have the centre that I assume can be used as a horn push but it was never connected in my car. Also have the boss that goes with it but that needs repainting with new crackle paint.

if you PM me your email address I will send you some photos.

Alan

PS I am located in South Bucks if that helps

I have a Mota Lita spare, I will retrieve it from my box of spares and check the size, there is a wheel boss that goes with it. It does have the centre in the wheel but I don't recall it ever being connected to the horn.

Just to add to the confusion I believe there are two different types of AP 4 pot caliper, i have the older once's dating from early 90's, not sure when they changed.

I am in the process of replacing existing Luke harnesses with new ones. I already have a surplus six point harness for the drivers side. I am waiting for the new passenger side to arrive and then that will be surplus but that is four point only. New ones due to arrive in about 10 days

Replacing so I can get lap belts that pull into the centre instead of down which is a little awkward.

Let me know if of interest.

Alan

I faced the same dilemma a few years ago.

I purchased the Chanel's that go under the floor, they are long enough so you can bolt these in situ using the old seat mounting points. I recall that there are rivets supplied as well which I also fitted. The channel is therefore held firmly in place with some of the load on the chassis rails as before. ( I didn't but i guess you could also use some "glue")

i then mounted the new S type seats with bolts through the channels

It took some effort to get it all lined up but it has held for many years now with no problem.

The alternative with the brackets above the floor as shown above is probably neater and easier if you can get the brackets made.

alan

Use a magnet to find the chassis