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DohNut

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Posts posted by DohNut

  1.  

    Does anyone know if there are places that keep X-flow silicone hoses in stock 🤔

    Not tempted by a four week wait as most places advertise - but at least you get to choose the colour without paying extra.

     

    Any supplier to avoid?

     

    Nick

  2.  

    Just a thought - do you have the funny weber trigger wheel 🤔

    Mine has a tooth every 90 degrees and a double one at TDC

    You may find an ecu that reads this - or can be taught how to, but if not then you need to factor in the commercial cost of fitting a new crank trigger wheel.

    It would probably be better to replace it but IIRC mine is mounted using three bolts on the fan belt drive wheel - not by a single centre bolt, its a nice way of mounting it but more invoved than drilling out a centre hole.

     

    Nick

     

    Weber injected X-flow since 1992 *smile*

     

  3.  

    My dreary-mobile is trying to get itself noticed. ☹️

     

    On cold starts - I turn on ignition until glo-plug light goes out.

    Then I start it.

    It starts fine and runs for about 5 seconds then it bogs down and stalls and will not re-start unless left for several minutes.

     

    If you rev it (nasty 😔) then after 5 seconds it bogs down and dies - increasing throttle cannot save it.

     

    So my current technique is to start it - rev it to 3k *eek* then when it starts to die, lift off the throttle and it returns to idle nicely. - Grrrr

     

    The car is not being used that much at the moment but it had a run down to the coast at the weekend so the battery should be in pretty good shape, might try to put it on battery conditioner tonight.

     

     

    Given that releasing the throttle at revs would make the mixture leaner I think the engine is flooding. *confused*

     

    Any suggestions 😶‍🌫️

     

     

     

  4.  

    Not exactly an appropriate link but here should give you an idea as to what I was meaning by quadrant.

     

    The butterfly spindle would be attached in the middle and the throttle cable would run from the bottom left and run in the groove round the arc.

    This gives an equal angular change for each length of cable pulled.

     

    The idea I was thinking about was moving the position of the spindle off centre.

    In this example if the spindle was moved to the right and up then the initial pull of the cable would rotate the quadrant a smaller angle but as the throttle was nearly open it would rotate a greater amound for the last bit of cable.

     

    Nick

  5.  

    I think that AMMO made a linkage for his that was a bit more progressive.

    Didnt see how he did it though.

     

    Does your cable pull straight on a lever?

    I guess a quadrant would make a nicer cable run.

    If you were really getting fancy you could try to re-make the quadrant with the pivot offset so that you start off with a big radius for small angle increase openings for the first bit of cable pull.

    That would increase to a large angle increase openings for the final bit of cable pull

     

    Nick

  6.  

    Do you know a scuba diver?

     

    The compressed air is dried to remove condensed moisture and to make it nice to breath does not have any oil in it.

    You can get a low pressure inflator to use with car and bike tyres.

    Been meaning to get one for ages - annoys me to be using a pump and having cylinders of compressed air sitting next door.

     

    a garage compressor will be somewhat dry but much less so as the resevoir is a much lower pressure the effect is reduced. it will also have some oil in the air.

     

    Nick

     

  7.  

    3.14 is what some bike powered cars use.

    That is the propshaft only has to turn 3.14 times for the drive shafts to turn once.

    only available on Sierra Diesel pick-up or something silly and very rare

     

    Compare with the more usual 3.6 and 3.9 versions

     

    On my crossflow I found that at 60mph I had a reduction of noise after making the gearing easier - an accidental side effect of going from 14in to 13 inch wheels

    not quite the same I know but..

     

     

  8. Quoting eric: 

     

     

    .... 1720 with accralite forged piston, std conrods, std crankshaft, alloy stage 2 head with stainless valves (39mm and 34 mm), FP 400 springs, Duplex chain, A2 cam (for road use) CR about 10.5.....

     

    Of course I will never have 170 HP but it is not important for me...

     

    But I wonder how much power an alloy head is worth ?

     

     

  9.  

    An article in Practical Performance Car a couple of months ago suggested that it is NOT illegal. - technically they quoted the relevant docs and said there was no reason to fail an MOT.

     

    I stand to be corrected but the increased throw of the HID lamps is not just down to the increase in light they are producing but that the beam shines at a shallower angle.

    The shallower angle means the self levelling is required to account for having something in the boot and avoid dazzling.

    Fitting them to a standard headlight should be ok as it will still shine light in the same place as the standard headlight, the risk might be that the tarmac infront of you is over-lit and you have more difficulty seeing up the road.

     

    N

  10.  

    If the Kitchen is on the ground floor, and unless the floor is raised a good deal I would be dubious that the joist ends are really supported by very dry brickwork, even if they are above the damp proof course. (rubble between cavity walls etc.)

     

    I would also suggest that a gap between floorboard and insulation that is big enough to provide significant ventilation would destroy most of the insulation effect.

     

    But I also take the point about the sealing effect of the lino above.

     

    On balance I would go with BOSS' suggestion perhaps leaving the insulation 6inches clear of the walls at the ends (likely to be under cupboards anyway)

     

    Nick

     

  11.  

    If I remember correctly, the basics of the system are simply introduce a water reservoir in between the engine and the pressure cap.

     

    Change the radiator cap for a blank that allows free flow of water out of the thermostat housing overflow pipe.

    Put a small diameter pipe between the over flow and the new header tank.

    Put the radiator cap on the header tank

     

    The expanding water/air should then pass freely out of the thermostat housing via the over flow down the small pipe and into the bottom of the header tank, pressurising the air above it until/if the pressure of the radiator cap is exceeded.

     

    FWIW I have the header tank fitted above the gearbox or on the heater (if it is in the car)

     

    Nick

  12. RetroFord make some Zetec and Duratec stuff, but more water rails and such, more affordable but does not looks a good from the photos I have seen.

    Would be interested to see some stuff first hand though.

     

     

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