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Posts posted by Nick Bassett
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Thanks all - I'll either get the Rimmer Bros one or call Redline!
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Hi again - is there anybody that can confirm this part number or the correct one if it's wrong?
It looks correct, but need to be sure!
Thanks
Nick
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Nice looking bits of kit - thanks
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Thanks all
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Hi all
A friend came up this weekend to help me re-install the engine and box into my 7 and brought with him a hard copy of the above publication. I'd not seen one before, but looked very useful and wondered if anyone had a pdf version they'd be happy to share with me (and potentially others)?
Thanks
Nick
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Hi folks
Anyone know the throttle cable part number for MY 2000 SLR with KV6 TBs?
Wasn't sure if this was it: SBB10173?
Thanks
Nick
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Bit of a long shot really, but wondered if anyone had a spare K series coolant rail - the one that attaches to the cam carrier above the exhaust manifold? I'm looking for the later version that sits higher than the original.
Thanks!
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Graham - thanks.
Makes good sense as you say.
Please tell your brother his old 7 is still going strong - well it will be once the engine & 'box have been refitted!
Cheers
Nick
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Thanks for all advice etc.
Still not sure on whether to change engine & gearbox mounts - they look fine with no cracks etc.
JV - clutch plate was OK, but springs were broken, so have a new Helix going in. CRB was shot, but fortunately I bought an alloy example years ago that should do nicely!
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Hi folks,
Now that I have my engine back from DVA nicely refreshed, I'm planning on putting this big chunky jigsaw puzzle back together... just hope I'm not missing any parts!
Gearbox oil - what should I be using? I know I've read somewhere about Redline MTL, but a knowledgeable friend is suggesting MT-LV which I haven't heard of before. I've been told I need 2 litres, but the Redline is sold in bottles of 946 ml... is 2 bottles enough or do I need 3?
Finally - gearbox mount - is it normal practice to replace this whilst gearbox is out?
Engine mounts - looking to replace these too. The originals look fine, but are 20+ years old if original, therefore good practice to renew?
Thanks
Nick
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Size 46L
Selling my G1 jacket as I have too many leather jackets and having a bit of clear out!
Aviation Leathercraft produces some of the finest leather flying jackets, supplying the RAF BBMF and producing many other 'Squadron' type jackets.
Quality dark brown steer hide with a genuine moulton fleece collar. Cotton lined.
Cuffs, waistband and lamb fleece collar are all in very good condition, showing little, if any signs of wear. This really is a lovely jacket in great preloved condition.
£100 + P&P or pick up from West Berks
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I'm sure it's a lovely car, but on the face of it, seems over-priced for a non-genuine R400.
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Progress update: after a bit of head scratching yesterday, I got my trusty Dremmel tool out and started gently grinding away the cam ladder shelf that was preventing access to the IACV tube bolts and it worked! Now have much better access to these and have managed to undo 3 of the 4! The last one is putting up a fight as it's rounded slightly, but I'm going to invest in some long reach hex bits for my ratchet and hoping that will do the trick in getting the little blighter out! It's currently being soaked in a cocktail of WD40 and Plus Gas...
Any other thoughts on how to get this final one out gratefully received!
Pic of my fettling efforts below:
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Yellow SV (?) OU22.... Was following you in a black Passat from the A419 through to Aldbourne... you then took off and that was the last I saw of you!
BTW your near side rear light isn't working!
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I was hoping you were going to say that Dave! Thanks.
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Thanks Tom - mine seems to have just cap head bolts fitted, meaning an open-ended isn't an option.
I'll take another look at the weekend to see what's possible...
Cheers
Nick
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Stu - I'm trying to strip as much off the engine as I can before I take it to DVA later this month.
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Tom - yes I think so as the pipe masks one of the inlet bolts... will take another look tonight.
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Thanks Stu - I did wonder if the cut down allen key is the route to this.
Another concern I have is, could I get enough purchase on these bolts using just an allen key? I guess being an alloy pipe, the bolts won't be too tight? Famous last words...!!
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Hi folks,
Anybody got any tips for removing the KV6 TBs/inlet manifold from a VHPD head?
The issue is there is a horizontal bar that sits on top the inlet manifold holding the IACV and the 4 recessed cap head bolts (holding this bar to the inlet) sit directly below a lip on the top of the cam carrier, so it seems impossible to access these cap heads, unless a cut down allen key is the answer? I'm concerned that using an allen key could damage them, making them even harder to remove!
The annoying thing is, if recesses were cut into the side of the lip attached to the cam carrier, they could be made easily accessible from the top down.
Pic attached, with two of the cap heads circled in blue (lifted from DVA website - thanks Dave!)
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... we were in my red SLR - some lovely empty roads up there... just watch out for the 'orses!
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Keep her in her original scheme, but with bare carbon wings front and rear and a carbon nose ring... she'll be snapped up I'm sure.
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Hi Dom,
Are the CF wing protectors still available?
Thanks
Nick
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My Superlight R runs a standard Banner battery - no problems as such.
It's coming up to 5 years old and have noticed that leaving it on trickle charge, the final green light CTEK charger doesn't light up no matter how long it's attached, so I suspect it'll need a new battery for next year. I'll be SORN-ing it from November so will start 2023 with a new battery.
Only maintenance I do on the battery is check the levels once a year and top up if necessary - usually only requiring very small amounts.
Good garage in Cornwall/Devon for a service
in TechTalk
Posted
Caterhams are pretty basic cars , so any reputable Inde should be fine with it.
My Uncle owns a respected garage in Camborne... 'Glasson's' who are used to working on all types.
I'm not on commission!