Mike Bees

Blimey, that's a great buy. I'd be tempted if it wasn't an auto, so good job it is!

Mike

I'll bet that Cadwell will fill up within a day or two of the regs going out - it's included in a lot of championships.

Mike

I've seen that too, but I doubt it would leak whilst sitting in the garage, unless the tank was brimmed from a can and not driven, IYSWIM.

Mike

Do you mean the pump (lower right hand end of tank) rather than the sender unit (which is in the top of the tank under the boot floor)? For the sender unit to be leaking you'd need to totally brim the tank and then slop it about or pressurise it. Same rules apply re. nipping up the bolts though.

Mike

Edited by - Mike Bees on 24 Jan 2006 08:42:20

Bodge on bodge! Surely a better idea would be to bolt the support bracket to the hole thru' the middle of the DD tube... although that would probably foul the damper?

Mike

Maybe a bit more separation between the brain and the balls would help 😬

Mike

I used those too - 4laps of Goodwood was enough to split them open...

Mike

Quite 'light' for an aftermarket 15" alloy...

Mike

Thanks! Yes I have trawled the archives. Other than flags it's all a bit vague as to what you actually need to know for the test.

Mike

Engine-to-car loom connection might be different (or might not - someone will know). Exhaust cutout in the bodywork might be different. Otherwise I can't think of any incompatibilities. You might want to check out gearbox input shaft length and splines, as there have been some changes in that area over the years.

Mike

Google answered the 2nd question - it no longer exists.

Mike

Doing my ARDS test in a couple of weeks. My Go Racing pack is the 2005 model. Does anyone know of any changes in the 2006 Blue Book (or the video) which might affect the written part of the test? On the same subject, a trawl back through Blatchat reveals that there is a black and yellow flag which isn't mentioned in the Blue Book or the video, but it is in the test. What's that all about then? Mike

Doh! I should learn to read...

Mike

They have the lug on the cam, but no sensor and nowhere to fit one (unless you're talking VVC head which has provision for cam phase sensor on one of the inlet cams IIRC).

Mike

Why does that mean they "don't work" Arnie? It just means that the allegedly-useless too-soft part of the spring is fully compressed all the time, just as if there were a helper spring in the system.

Mike

A 1997 K-series will have a distributor, so not wasted spark. The tacho drive is a low-voltage output from the MEMS, so you should be able to tap into that.

Mike

Its a two for the price of one deal

They're priced separately, but with a 2-for-one-offer (but you knew that...).

But who knows if they any good

Scholar are a reputable company. I guess they would confirm or deny the provenance of these engines.

intrested,what make ecus do these run on,dave.

Any that you care to hook up and map I guess All ECUs strive to do the same thing. The ad doesn't mention a wiring loom, so they're not tied in any way to any particular ECU. I'm not the seller BTW.

Mike

Nowt to do wi' me:

Scholar K series engines, both new, one 1900cc £ 4200, one 2000cc £4900. All steel, doweled crankcases, Arrow rods, forged pistons, Piper cams/cam pulleys, flywheels to suit 7.25" clutch, Jenvey 45mm bodies 230 & 235bhp 165 & 180 lbs/ft price for both £8500.

Ad. is here

Mike

1. You still need the MFU. Maybe you could eliminate it with some loom changes, maybe not - you'd have to speak to Emerald.

2. I would have though Gunk would do. Carb cleaner is probably better.

Mike

It seems amazing that it was cheaper/easier/better to get different length dampers made and add the tack-on mounting bodge (alleged) than it would have been to get the correct length springs! But then amazing things do happen...

Mike

I don't see why changing to variable rate springs would require a longer spring/damper combo. I thought it was more of a geometry issue, tho' I can't provide any logical explanation for that either!

Mike

so in reality you don't have to do every round during the busy period...

Hmm, that's not the same sort of reality that kicks in whilst you're wandering aimlessly around the garden centre, or taking stuff to the tip, or "having a nice lunch together" whilst thinking about all the fun your comrades are having at Shelsley/MIRA/Loton/Cadwell/Harewood etc...

Mike

What a fantastic looking championship, very well done.

Although... with 6 events over 5 consecutive weekends in July/Aug and another 5 events over 4 consecutive weekends in Aug/Sep I can hear the divorce lawyers sharpening their pencils and thumbing through their Demon Tweeks catalogues 😬

Mike

If the engine is turning over at a sensible speed but doesn't fire until you crack the throttle open slightly then that can't be anything to do with the starter motor assembly itself. It's more likely to be the idle air control valve not opening enough to let sufficient air in to start a cold engine.

Mike