Mcalvert

Have you checked the fuses? You would think that with a blown fuse, all guages would drop to zero, but they don't always seem to.

I had a similar problem recently, cured by a fuse change.

Regards _ MIchael.

I had 2 cables snap in my first year of ownership.

I have found that the cure for me wat to ensure that the brass nipple is well greased at all times (oo-er).

Otherwise, the nipple binds with the bolt at the top of the pedal, and instead of pivoting, it bends the cable each time the pedal is depressed, hence the cable snaps over time. It;s an easy job to pop the pedal cover off every few months and drop on a dab on grease to prevent the problem.

As for replacing the cable, it's easy. Order a complete unit from Caterham. Just watch carefully where the esisting cable is routed and copy this with the new one. Adjustment of the cable length and pedal height is with the aid of the two nuts where the cable enters the clutch assembly.

Good luck - Michael.

Erm. Caterham ?

;-)

Hi,

The battery in my 1700SS seems to down on charge - I'm not getting the same enthousiasm on starting (althoug it does still succeed), and I have had some misrires at high revs which I feel may be down to poor spark?

Can someone please provide some guidance re. how I should go about diagnosing whether it is the battery at fault, or the alternator down on efficiency. I have a multimeter, but would appreciate advice on what to look for, and what readings I should be looking for at different points.

Thanks - Michael.

Steve - That rules me out then I'm afraid, but I'm sure there are others in your area who can help!

Regards,

Michael.

Steve - I really can't see why it wouldn't. As it's only a 30 second job to change, I am sure you could try someone else's before parting with hard earned cash. Where abouts are you?

Michael.

I changed from the old style grill to a 7 style one with no problem - this is on a 1991 Supersprint.

Michael.

They just lever off, and inevitably ping into the darkest recess of your garage...

Caterham sell them for a few pence - I don't know of any other sources I'm afraid.

Michael.

Colin - Hi.

I tried to drop you an e-mail but it got returned for some reason.

I would be very intersetd in your heater - It's actually on the fan motor that I need, but as long as this works OK, and does not rattle like my old one did in the later years of its life, that would be great. How much do you want for it?

Regards,

Michael

I need a fan motor for the "old" type caterham heater (recirculating). Anyone got one that they no longer need?

Thanks,

Michael.

Does anyone have access to the official rules regarding minimum legal tyre tread for the orad?

After Brooklands yesterday, I have some unique Yoko R21 slicks on the back which definitely need changing, and I think that the fronts may be getting marginal.

Thanks - Michael.

I used the same solution, but found that a cheap foam camping mat provided the padding.

Regards,

Michael.

As an experiment last week, I took my screen off completely - I loved it up to around 50mph, but found that the airflow straight into the face waws unfomfortable above that speed.

I suspect that had I had aeroscreens fitted, these would have carried most of the flow over my head? Are aeroscreens more efficient than the R500 type moulded items? They look great, but I can;t see how much airflow they would divert.

I guess I need to take some passenger rides at the next Caterham gathering, but opinions would be welcome.

Regards - Michael.

Typical, a few days before setting off for Le Mans, my car's stared playing up. As mechanical novice, I'd appreciate any advice…

Driving up to Silverstone yesterday, an intermittent rubbing noise stared up on the drivers side.

Jacking the car up when I got home, it appears to be from the front hub. The wheel still turns freely, but there is a definite squeak. Looking from the inside of the hub, there is some sort of felt washer which is disintegrating a bit and turning with the wheel, which it doesn’t on the other side. Nevertheless, it still appears to be providing a seal (I presume it's there to keep grit out of the hub?). I note also that the gap between the upright and the hub where this seal fits is about 1mm wider on the noisy side than the other.

The noise comes and goes and does not change when breaking, so does not seem to be a break pad binding. I can only therefore imaging that it's hub related.

Does anyone have any ideas what it is likely to be, and most importantly whether this is likely to deteriorate much on the Le Mans trip? I would normally drop the car into James Whiting's to check over, but I know that he's off this week. Is there anyone else who knows Sevens in the Maidenhead area?

Thanks - Michael.

I had the same problem which I cured with the following information posted on the Sevens list:

Where the column enters the rack, at 90 degrees to the column there is a big

adjuster secured with a lock nut. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, mark the

current position of the adjuster (to the lock ring and to the rack body)

using tip-ex or some such substance. You can then loosen the lock nut (big

adjustable spanner) and adjust the mesh of the rack and pinion (Allen key).

Because tightening the lock ring changes the meshing slightly, you have to

move the adjustment by small amounts tighten it up and test with each

adjustment. You shouldn't test for slack, but for the onset of *noticeable*

friction. Mine needed adjustment of about 3mm at the circumference of the

adjuster (hence the tip-ex mark). The tip-ex also means that you can remove

the adjuster entirely to have a look at what it does inside the rack and get

it back to approximately the right place to start the fine adjustment.

Testing needs as little mass as possible to be attached to the system. You

can do this by knocking the rod ends out of both steering arms and taking

your wheel off. It would be better if you didn't have te column attached,

but it is not entirely necessary as it has a low moment of inertia. You can

do all of this with the rack in the car.

Testing involves moving the rack through its range of movement by pushing

and pulling on one track rod. The friction in the system is much more

apparent here than at the steering wheel. You should ignore resistance at

the very ends of the rack travel as the compression of the boots starts

having an effect, with air wheezing in and out. The majority of the travel

should be free running. Adjust until you feel the friction and then back

off by the width of a gnat's tadger.

There are valve stem seals which can be used even with the double springs. James Whiting fitted some to my 1700 Crossflow fairly cheaply last year.

Regards,

Michael.

I had exactly the same problem recently and adjusted it out with the pre-tensioner nut as suggested. It has made a fantastic difference - I hadn't realised that the steering had been getting slightly sloppier as time went by, but now it's perfect.

The only problem I found doing the adjustment was finding a big enough socket (32mm from memory?).

There are other possible sauses for play - check on the 7vens mailing list archive and you'll find pages of advice,

Regards - Michael

Standard Caterham rollbar for a de Dion car going free (donation to NtL would be nice) if anyone can use it.

I'm in Berks.

Regards,

Michael.

John - Yes, Caterham do a spacer kit - about £14 if I remember from a few years back.

Michael.

Caterham list a "Replacable spare wheel Carrier" on their race car option list (Have just placed a deposit for the 2002 Academy - whoopee).

Anyway, it may be worth following up with them.

Regards,

Michael.