mikes

Many thanks for the comments. I am glad there seems to be agreement about separating it from the gearbox before removal, because at least that makes the decision easier. Good idea about protecting the chassis tubes. So far I have only got as far as the penetrating oil on the exhaust studs bit to see if it works, but the engine won't come out until the end of December - there must be some good weekend blatting days left before Christmas - even with a slightly knackered crossflow! I suppose the other thing is to try and collect advice about putting it back in. Any advice on best ways to line it all up again? Mike

I am going to take the engine out for a rebuild over the Winter and, not having done this sort of thing before, need some advice on the best way to tackle it. I have read on other threads that some recommend removing the engine and gearbox as a single unit, but other advice is to split them before removal. The car is a 1989 1700 DeDion 5 speed if that is any help. I am just about capable of getting all the ancillary bits off (but still not confident of removing exhaust manifold studs that have not been shifted since the car was new by the look of them) but any help would be welcome. Thanks Mike

The Manual, when you get it, says 20psi. I use the same tyre size and have tried various pressures around that. It seems to me that this is about right for road use. I imagine it depends a lot on the tyre type. My previous set were Michelin Pilots which did last a long time but I eventually manager to remove the tread from the nearside front after a couple of years of track days. They have the deserved reputation of being long lasting - but a bit lacking in grip - quite true. I did however have the distinction of being told by one of the scrutineers at a club sprints that I was the only person there with those tyres though! I can safely say getting new tyres can be one of the best investments you can make. Mike

Mine has got to 28K and now smokes a bit (like the owner) and breathes heavily when exercised, again just like.... It has had an increasing track day use over the last couple of years and a sprint or two and it has got to the stage where on track days I have to empty the oil catch tank at least once, and I can tell you it gets pretty hot! Despite this, it has been completely trouble free and until the excessive smoking problem I had no plans to do much to it. I had been advised though, which seemed pretty sensible, that this was a sign of wear and or something breaking and it would be advisable to get it checked. I like many others have been to Roger King to consult on the rebuilding and have convinced myself that it is worth getting a few extras to a straight rebuild - don't we all? I usually use 4 prods and then hope to catch it before the battery gives up in the Winter time. Summer is usually no trouble. I got given a manual from Caterham for my 1989 De Dion Supersprint when I bought it second hand from them. e-mail me if you would like a copy at msankey@merckpharma.co.uk Mike

Thanks for the advice. From the way it looked it appeared that the 1/2" bolt actually went through the mounting rubber and bolted into the chassis. I see now that this would be rather stupid and would somewhat defeat the point of the mount rubber. I think it was the way the bolt had rubbed against the top of the chassis that made it look like it should be bolted through there. I am much relieved that all I now need is a new rubber. Mike

On my ’89 xflow I thought I just had a broken right hand side engine mount. I could see that the bottom arm of the tubing had broken near to the engine. When I removed the broken mount I found that the main bolt which goes through the rubber mount has sheared at the level of the chassis tubing. Does anybody have any ideas about how to remove this remaining bit of threaded bolt from the chassis? Mike ☹️