Mick Day

https://jagwire.com/products/inner-wire

Dom: if you do suspect the pump get the pressure checked before removing it.

My problem was more to do with the poor quality aftermarket gasket. 

But there again the original Rover pump quality has been suspect.

Had this problem on & off for some time. 1.9 DVA K. But mine was a complete cut. No hesitation just complete shutdown. Give it 30 seconds & engine would start again.

At 1st it was occasional then ok for months.  But in the last 5 years it made the car undriveable. I changed all the usual suspects: coil, crank sensor, TPS, distributor cap & rotor arm, plugs etc.

In the end had the fuel pressure measured which was low. So tank out to remove the pump. The gasket had melted forming a goo around the pump inlet partially blocking it.

So after a new pump, gasket & filter I'm now back in the game.

20 years ago we ditched the foam & fitted a baffle in the sump.

This is one example:

https://www.lakesideengineering.com/art markus/Sump Blurb.htm

Try https://www.tracknroad.com/

Steve Greenald

GEMS....  DVA engine

Fan is switched by the aftermarket ECU. 86 on, 82 off. 82 thermostat. Engine sits at 77.

That's a simple repair by any engineering metalworking shop

Bump

Still available.

West Sussex

Originally purchased from Machine Mart in 2006. Little used (funny how you don't need it once you've got it!).

In excellent condition throughout, buyer collects.

£99

Had this happen a few times:

Once it was a poor engine earth: working one minute, turn engine off, after 5 minutes nothing, not even headlights.

Another time duff battery.

And finally duff starter. OK when cold but when hot the battery wasn't man enough to overcome the increased electrical resistance, & maybe partial mechanical seizure when hot. Coupled with a failed/failing fuel pump relay so really a fun day out!

Good luck!

Roger: it's easier with 2 people, but.............................when you're on your own use a G clamp to hold the screwdriver in place. From memory it can be clamped to the sump/crankcase flange.

As you have found out there are some variations in the use of the 4 relays within the MFRU.

If you find an ECU pinout diagram & follow the wiring into the MRFU (& out again) you can check what the various relays do (use a multimeter to confirm continuiity). My car is a 1994, originally with the old 1.4 K series. 4 relays were used controlling lambda sensor heater, fuel pump, starter & injectors (IACV & charcoal cannister).

The lambda sensor, IACV & charcoal cannister were removed a while back, & I installed a separate relay for the starter for obvious reasons.  However when I was getting a misfire, & odd fuelling problems, I got rid of the MFRU in favour of standard relays to just control power to the fuel pump & injectors.

This header tank also works well with a K series, especially with a dry sump oil tank in front of the engine.

As I've had this problem myself, a couple of times, this is how I cured it (assuming all wiring connections are in good condition):

NEW STARTER............

Starters do deteriorate over time & have a hard life in a Caterham. Usually the internal resistance increases &/or mechanical internals deteriorate & the battery has a hard time (even when in good condition) turning the engine.

For me a starter lasts about 6 or 7 years.

Pete

I used chicken wire, available from any local DIY/hardwire shop. Cut it to size then paint it matt black with a Hammerite rattle can. Once dry use small wire ties to attach to the rear of the grill.

PS: I see Yorkshire, South & Derbyshire, North meet at the Ladybower Inn. Maybe we should time another sh1t tour to coincide & also visit the cafe again?

My daughter had some front suspension work carried out to her car a while back.

The cause of the indifferent steering was one fastener loose plus a nut missing off another!

Go to the obvious 1st & check all fasteners are tight & in place.

Yes that's the one.

And you're right, the additional web helps prevent any fracture.

Exhaust manifold gasket can usually be re-used.

Clutch plate is a Ford based item but as CC only supply their own uprated AP item it's best to buy from them.

Remove starter but I always managed to remove engine with alternator & Apollo in situ.

Don't forget to remove engine diagonals (if removable).

Leave clutch cable attached as a gentle press on the clutch pedal often helps separate engine/bell housing once all fixings are removed.