mikecocker

All yours Brian. Let me know what you want to do.

Bonnet had cut out for air filter but now filled in. I used it in competition with numbers etc on it.

Scuttle has got a few holes from race screens, tonneau etc.

FOC to anyone who wants to collect from Cheltenham  GL51 

I've  got a few bits and pieces anyone can take at the same time if they're  of any use.

Sparco Black Suit Size 52, Slight Fraying On Collar

Sparco Race Underwear Size Small ,Top, Bottoms, Socks, Balaclava

Sparco Black Gloves Size 9

Sparco Black Boots Size 7/41

DT Rubber Overshoes

Richa Black/Yellow Rain Suit Size Medium, As New

Caterham Holdall to keep it all in

All good used condition

Collection Cheltenham  GL51

£175

 

1 Ton Sealey Folding Crane

1.5 Ton SGS Aluminium Low Profile Jack

6.5  Ltr  Vacuum Extractor Pump

4 Ton Clarke Strong Arm Body Jack

4 x 3 Ton Silverline Axle Stands

Clarke Engine Stand

240v Small Parts Washer

If you want any pics message me. 

Collection only from Cheltenham GL51

£275

RS Inter Club is the new non race National B

I'm guessing RS National is the old National A

It's interesting that Hugh Chambers is introducing "a number of changes to reduce hidden costs and increase accessibility for competitors", but seemingly at the cost of speed competitors.

 Last years licence fee £46, this year £69. That's a nice round 50% ffs

2, 3 and 2 please Chris

Yes please, thanks.

One for me  please, thanks.

That's the correct filter.

Next time, buy a few on ebay or the like for about half that price.

My experience is that they can be very tight to undo, good luck!

Yes. Green wire on left is switched live feed, black in middle is earth, wire on right is tacho signal.

51, 68, 84 approx.

It's not the plug on the submarine pipe, it's on the engine block facing the pedal box.

You can test the fan by waiting until the engine warms up, then disconnect the plug at the back of the engine on the driver side,UK only, and the ECU should default to fan on. Don't try when engine is cold, it will run like a bag of bolts!

It's switched by the ECU. Leave it running a bit longer.

I don't think you're running the engine long enough to get the fan working. On my Duratec the fan doesn't kick in until about 105° and then off about 103°. The engine will run about 95°-100° in normal conditions, but will climb when air flow stops, ie in traffic.

Different engines have different numbers eg my old Sigma fan kicked in about 95°. 

I always used Comma Xtec 5w 30 as recommended  by CC. Good price on ebay. Imo more important to change regularly, than spend loads.

18 psi cold

75 Nm

I always turn off master switch every time I get out of car, and have never had a battery problem, no matter how long I leave the car between outings. Allow the immobiliser to start flashing before isolating.

The radius arm cap head bolt is 10mm so you need an 8mm hex wrench. Depending on whether you can slide the seat out the way, or in my case it was fixed quite far forward, and I needed to shorten the short leg on a long series wrench.

I always spanner checked after events, but after a couple of times you will know where the problems are, which may vary on different cars. In my case, it was radius arm bolts, engine mounting bolts into block, top wishbone balljoint locknut and diff mounting bolts.

When the current design of backplate/diff carrier was introduced at the end of 2013, a workshop notice was sent out for those retrofitting the kit, which stated;

Fill with 800 ml of oil

Do not use fill hole as level

On the exploded diagram, the plug is described as fill/drain.

 

IVA / SVA requirement?

I've looked again at your photo at the orange arrow, and there is definitely a full hole showing in the bell housing, at least on this side. I know that the threaded portion is very near the top face of the plate, and that's why a shoulder bolt is used. The alternative protector also seems to have the threaded rod welded pretty flush with the top, so although you may have an oil leak, I'm not convinced the sump is in the wrong place.

There should be no gap. I expect that if you take out the 2 front screws, you will be able to push the back up and then fit the  2 missing bolts. 

Hi Chris,

You should have 2 shoulder bolts at red arrows plus the 2 screws at green arrow. Nothing at blue arrow. 

Have you got the shoulder bolts with the reduced thread size, or are you trying to fit standard cap head bolts as per rest of bell housing?

If you remove the plate, clean behind it and refit with shoulder bolts first, but only lightly tightened, and then screws. I found this to be easiest.

If you have removed the finger filter when changing oil, this will find it's way behind plate. I always remove plate when changing oil to avoid this.

This is it

https://www.myrouteapp.com/route/open/1298714?origin=library&partner=534&embed=true

 

For reference here's the route in MRA

Adrian,

That is the app I'm using on my Android phone.

If I go to Route Planning it changes wp 13 to a left turn instead of right. When I go to Navigation and Tracking it also changes wp 16-17 into a loop.

Maybe someone could try and see if they get the same result.