Paceman

Iam using a new battery with the same results, shorting the Battery cut of switch certainly improves matters slightly though.

Well time goes on I still have problems starting initially and occasionally problems hot starting (usually after filling up at the garage. ten minute wait and then it starts, not a very good advert for the car). Have fitted a secondary battery switch which I use to short the FIA battery switch and connect the battery direct to the starter this sometimes works but not always. From the looks of it Starting seems to be a problem with quite a few types of 7 but working answers to the problems are few. Anybody who followed this thread got any Idears I havent tried yet. These engines dont seem to have any problems fitted in Fords, can it be related to the Engine Management and twin 45 Carb set up, which seems to be the only difference. expert advice needed

Well changed the oil to 5W /30W Seemed to turn over and start easier, however I had to run the engine prior to changing the oil. Left for a week but unable to try 7 out, left in garage for second week, !!! The suns out and can I start it, not a !!! hope. Do I need a bigger battery ??? The sump is a Raceline unit and the OPR is concealed inside the sump out of site so I could not check this item. Any one got ANY Idears, I am deffinitly loseing it.

Well due to illness I still havent been able to get under the 7 to check the OPR. Researched the internet on Zetec starting and found that the early series 1 of Zetec engines suffered similar problems, cured by using oil viscosities of 5W/30W (will it make that much difference!) as I am using Mobile 1 -15W/50W this may be causing my cold weather problem as once warm I dont have the starting problem. Engine Oil change must be needed as soon as i get back on my feet.

Its a 2000 ZETEC 1995 approx Edited by - Paceman on 27 Feb 2006 20:57:25

Poped into two ford main dealers today just to check out the availability and prices for an OPR , seams they dont sell them without an oil pump any more!! Second Dealer was most unsocialable must have been a bad day.

Many thanks Andy Will report back, probably not before next weekend as I can only work on it outside. Just a thought, before I remove the OPR do I need to drain the Engine Oil.

Hi Thanks for your rapid reply. Yes the engine usually cranks over 3 or 4 times before stalling at the compression stage, when the batteries had enough. Once it fires it is sensitive to the throttle (any throttle during starting prevents it turning over, stops on compression i guess)but once running it settles down and runs OK. Iam using Twin 45 carbs It sounds very similar to your experiance, only if the valves lift off the seats wouldnt this allow the engine to spin over more easily. I live in Weymouth

Thanks the lot any help will be very appreciated its got me totally stumpt

Well after several attempts and using jump leads finally its going. Even using this system it took a number of goes. Finally went for a drive and blew out a few cobwebs and frustrations. On returning stopped the engine and then restarted no problems????? Could it be something to do with the oil viscosity when cold, I am using Mobil 1 Any thoughts its blowing my mind How would the oil pressure valve sticking prevent the car starting ????

Were do I find this Oil pressure valve ??? Edited by - Paceman on 26 Feb 2006 12:32:56

Have now looked at the Battery with a Meter Banner Battery with 30Ahr Capacity Leads to battery 0 Ohms on the Black lead and connections good 0.3 Ohms on the Red lead including cut off switch connections good Battery fully charged reads 13 Volts Switch on engine turns over couple of times but slow. Battery volts drops to a very low 7V during cranking. Put another battery in parallel with it increadably the voltage still drops to 7V Is the battery Ampage to low I still cant start this 7 in the cold!!!!!!!!!!!!

My 7 has always had problems with turning the engine over from cold , all the leads and connections are visually good their just dosent seem to be enough power to turn the engine over and start the car at the same time( both my batteries supplied by Caterham)(have thought that the leads between the battery - cutoff switch - starter are very long and may produce large volt drop). You can hear the starter struggle as it gets to the compression stage (dare not touch throttle at this stage). This just flattens the battery in seconds even if the battery has just been fully charged. If the engine turns over (as in warmer weather) the car usual starts easily. Many thanks for your advice will check the leads resistance.

I have a 2000 Zetec engine fitted, which will always flatten the battery,have tried an extra switch in the ignition to throw 0ncethe engine turns over to some success in the summer. Bought a new all singing all dancing starter from Dick dixon in the 7Mag which improved things slightly in summer but on a cold day will the battery turn the thing over enough to start NO!!! It works better if I run it every day but sadly it stays in the garage to much, my love affair is becoming !!!!! Can any body suggest any other Ideas, it always fails when I need a fix most !!!! I fitted a new battery as well and a battery maintainer.