sevenmad

Thanks all,

The lens and rim are tight. I'll have a look at the rivets to see if they are loose, otherwise I'll try the weights to see if I can alter the "harmonics"

Anybody else got an annoying high pitched "rattle" from the driver's side headlamp and bracket at tick over?

On my sigma roadsport, tick over at 800 rpm obviously produces a harmonic rattle in the assembly which is really intrusive, like a high pitched squeal . The only answer is not to get stuck in traffic, no end of tightening the fixings make a difference, though touching the headlamp make it dissappear.

Anyone so afflicted or got an answer?

Are the latest (?EU4) brackets any better.

A few months ago I seem to remember several post about members using this heavy shockproof oil in their diffs.

Just wondered what people think of it. Is it safe to use and does it quiten a slightly noisy diff at all? I'm thinking of giving it a go.

The starter and horn buttons used by Caterham are manufactured by ITW switches. They are all form the 76 series, here

I bought my starter switch from RS components as it was half the price as from CC.

It appears there are latching versions if you look at the pdf on the ITW site. Then look the swith you want up on the RS site here.

Happy searching.

Just wondering whether anyone has been out in a 7 with the new BMW diff, I believe there's one at Caterham South?

I wonder how much quieter it is

I agree spiderlane. I'm in a similar position with a car just a year old with a relatively noisy diff that caterham said was "within acceptable limits".

If they new this was a problem why didn't they tell me within the warranty period and suggest a replacement with the new diff when it became available?

Now I have to fork out whatever, and am left with the question of whether to go for new or get the old diff R&R 'd.

Wonders will never cease, mines only a year old but I'm sorely tempted.

Any idea on cost?

On my sigma Roadsport the power socket is wired in using the loom connections for the power socket, not directly to the battery as most people seem to do. Is it alright to use a battery conditioner through this? It is always live.

Just realised that the immobiliser flattens the battery in about 2 weeks!

I belive the seats are made by the Oxted Group, based in Surrey,here

Could try sending them an email

I'm thinking of doing this so please let us know how you get on.

Are you going to do anything about the nose cone? It presumably has the cut outs for the old two point brackets?

Seem to remember someone on BC had the Burton upgrade and were not particularly impressed, certainly didn't get to 160 bhp.

Shawspeed claim to get 150-160bhp with throttle bodies etc, and beyond 200bhp with ported cylinder head, oversize valves etc etc but at high cost. here

Pro-tune also quote high outputs here

Personally I would go for cc upgrade if you want to keep you current car, this would make it easier to sell through cc if you want to trade it in.

The other option is to simply trade up to a Duratec as this permits further upgrades if needed, and may be less expensive in the long run. 2.8K is a considerable sum for an extra 25bhp.

Any chance of a photo of your brackets in place before I order some?

Cheers

I finished my 125 end of last year so I believe they should fit my car too

Which of the many brackets are the new ones? Anyone know the code number?