davestevenson

I have one bought from Maplin that you're welcome to borrow. I can't make the meet tonight, but drop me a BM if you want to collect (just north of Cambridge, or the Science Park during the day)

I fitted an Audicator to my 7 a few years back and it works a treat. Programmable number of flashes before it starts beeping at you, and then increases in volume. It also resets the count if you have your foot on the brake, so it doesn't get annoying sitting at a junction. I had the same problem with the Club discount code not working, but emailed them and they reactivated the code. Their contact details should be on the website somewhere.

Thanks John for the suggestions (and noticing my error). I must confess that I can't remember centreing the a-frame when I built it. I'll check that tonight if I get a chance. My measurements from the edge of ear to inside edge of the chassis tube would imply I'm off there (3mm out, when tolerance is +/-2mm).

This is my first TechTalk thread, so be nice to me. I think I may have the off side rear wheel bearing going on my 2007 S3 (metric chassis, 1.6 K-series). I had it go at 2000 miles/9 months, and when it was removed a couple of the rollers had fussed together! Caterham sent me a pair of bearings, but I think I'm getting the same squeak again. As an observation, when putting the ears on to the dedion, the near side ear was almost perfectly positioned and touching the end of the tube. On the off side, it was probably about 8mm off, which got squashed up as the ear is bolted in place. Surely this leaves a fair end load on the bearing. I've checked that the diff is centralised, and it is (38.5mm from unused mount to the inside of the chassis rail on both sides). From the inside of the chassis rail to the edge of the DD ear is 11.3cm on the N/S, but only 11cm on the O/S. Is this normal? And why is the O/S driveshaft longer than the N/S? My measurements would say they should be the same (unless the output shafts of the diff aren't central) Any suggestions warmly received. [edit to correct my units ] Edited by - davestevenson on 2 Jun 2009 13:07:10

Just to say that I get the same problem if the battery charge has dropped a bit too far due to being left standing for too long. 2007 1.6 K-series. Blip the remote and the LED goes out. Hit the starter button, the engine cranks, but the immobiliser LED will come straight back on, and the car won't fire up. (I did stick a battery monitor on it, but I can't remember the values. I might pop out tonight to try it again). In that state, jump starting it off the tintop works every time, and then gives me an excuse to go for a blat to put a bit of charge back into the battery 😬 Guess it may be worth getting a new battery, but it's not too bad during the summer when the car gets used that bit more. If anyone does come up with a better solution on this, please let me know. Dave

Probably me (although the reg is wrong). SWMBO made me put the half hood up as she thought it was too windy. Thanks for letting me out - I'd not got in to the right hand lane coming out of the festival site soon enough, so ended up going straight over and then turning round. Quite a fun way to spend a Sunday afternoon though. D

Just to add my own experience the other weekend. The 7 had been sitting in the garage for about 6 weeks. Hit the unlock button & the immobiliser appeared to disengage as normal. Ignition on, hit the start button, and the red light immediately came on. Pressing the unlock button would extinguish the light, but it would come on immediately as soon as I tried starting it again. Brought the tin-top round and connected jump leads, and it started first time. My guess is that the battery voltage was dropping just enough with cranking for the immobiliser to re-engage. The extra juice from the tin-top obviously avoided that and meant I could go for a nice drive to recharge the battery (hard life really!). Now to find something to just keep the 7's battery topped up when sitting idle for any length of time. Out of interest, does anyone know if the solar trickle chargers work (eg http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=FAQ&ModuleNo=115194&doy=10m2#faq )?