Bio

Hi Graham, now moved from Hertfordshire to Chulmleigh so would be good to meet.

2000 VX built many years ago…hope weather dries up soon !

John

Hi Graham

Just booked mine in at Harris motor services Nomansland near Tiverton….They seem to understand sevens and how to interpret mot requirements.

John

Yes please please mail me for further details

Interested in the sump only….any ideas on pricing 

John

Hi Ed

I have drive shafts that I want to rebuild but they have now been in use for nearly 100000 miles.I have one rebuild kit (as rare as hens teeth) but would like to keep the car mobile.

You can purchase the rubber boot and I have a plan to reuse the tin can but need to practise on another drive shaft.

John

Tin can style drive shaft (near side) off side too if available for boot and can rebuild 

Thanks John

Jenvey direct to head throttle bodies 34mm-42mm, 90mm trumpets, fuel rail and injectors 0 280 158 024.....£350.00

2x Front spring new unused Elbach 099.225.0200....£50.00

2x Front spring new unused Nitron 9C0120....£50.00

2x Front spring used Nitron 9C0150....£30.00

2x Caterham rear spring used Progressive....£30.00

Phone 07780860875

John

Evening Simon,

Please mail me I might have something of interest .

John

K series wet sump pan in good condition £150.00

Apollo tank with pipe fittings and drain plug but no pipes or fitting kit.

£60.00 

Thanks John

Apollo Tank only...No pipework or fitting kit.

£60.00 plus postage if required.

Many thanks John

4 Vauxhall C20XE Mahle pistons and rods, standard size 86.00 mm pocketed by a further 2.00mm to accept high lift cams with ARP bolts.

£100.00

Many thanks John

Apollo tank only with drain plug and 1/2 inch pipe fittings.

£80.00 plus postage.

Many thanks John

K series.bell housing wet sump in good condition removed when dry sump fitted.

£140.00

Apollo Tank and pipework for K series ( no mounting plates)

£120.00

Hi Dave

The older tin can style are a bit tricky ....you need to remove the drive shaft and then extract the complete joint from the drive shaft before cutting off the tin can and fitting and swaging the new can on. Worthwhile doing both boots on the drive shaft at the same time and fitting new drive shaft nylock nut.

I did mine a while ago.

John

Could these be parts of the oil pick up pipe securing strap?

Does the temperature creep up to 100 degrees from normal when stationary....what happens when stationary does the fan run to bring the temperature down?

If the fan cycles normally then I suspect a faulty temperature sensor thus an incorrect temp gauge reading.

Does the car actually run hot?

Does the fan cut in and then out? The fan is controlled separately from the temperature gauge. If this is working properly then the problem could be the gauge sender.

Are you sure that the wet and black plug and piston top is not oil.....Damaged stem seals or oil control rings could cause this.

Does the engine use oil

The rear dampers are secured with 1/2 inch bolts top and bottom and the sleeve is part of the damper eye bush and does not require and additional bush.

The front dampers are secured with 8.00mm bolts top and bottom (5/16 on imperial chassis) and do require the additional bush/ insert to reduce the damper eye bush down to this size.

John

Pressure could be a factor...Is the catch tank made from plastic and could you add an additional breather pipe to vent to the underside of the car?

Does sound electrical......Start with removing plugs and Leeds add cleaning/ drying . Check the top of the plug and inside the Leeds (both ends).

Dry clean the dizzy cap and clean the contacts inside with a knife or fine emery cloth. The centre contact should be in good condition and sprung loaded.

Good luck

Hi Alan

I have tried various grades of oil....The original GM spec was 10-40 semi synthetic, but for Caterham use with hydrulic lifters Mobil 15-50 (if available ) or now 10-60 fully synthetic.

SBD recommend Millers 10-60