The Outcast

Absolutley correct.

 

Positive ground depends upon proper circuit functioning, the transmission of negative ions by retention of the visible spectral manifestation known as "smoke". Smoke is the thing that makes electrical circuits work; we know this to be true because every time one lets the smoke out of the electrical system, it stops working. This can be verified repeatedly through empirical testing.

 

When, for example, the smoke escapes from an electrical component (i.e., say, a Lucas voltage regulator), it will be observed that the component stops working. The function of the wire harness is to carry the smoke from one device to another; when the wire harness "springs a leak", and lets all the smoke out of the system, nothing works afterwards. Starter motors were frowned upon in British Automobiles for some time, largely because they consume large quantities of smoke, requiring very large wires.

 

It has been noted that Lucas components are possibly more prone to electrical leakage than Bosch or generic Japanese electrics. Experts point out that this is because Lucas is British and all things British leak. British engines leak oil, shock absorbers, hydraulic forks and disk brakes leak fluid, British tires leak air and the British defense establishment leaks secrets...so, naturally, British electronics leak smoke.

There is no doubt DJ is correct BUT if your looking for an upgrade path Oily is the way to go If you want a complete change with endless power Go Duratech

Ah but for the old days.

 

Come back Bruce all is forgiven

 

It's SOO nice to have an Arch inside sticker on the se7en.

Have a query then Dave not all manual tensioner Ks use 143s I've seen a few with 145s so is there a better ruling[perhaps based on which head is fitted]

On the scuttle there is a spade connector with a purple wire check the male and emale spade that the crimp is sound on the copper wire and not on the insulation also that the male /female joint is clean and tight.this is the feed to the ECU any problem there will give symptoms you describe

1) Is this primarily a problem with older engines, or is the EU3 equally problematic?

 

No but even later EU2 whee OK

 

2) Should HGF occur, is there a modified gasket that has been produced to address the problem?

 

Yes there is a new gasket But I wouldn't change it until you have to

 

3) I'm in the habit of ensuring that the engine of any vehicle that I'm driving is up to full operating temperature before I put my foot down. I also carry out regular under-bonnet checks for early signs of problems (in my 1700 SS I would have a visual check, including fluid levels etc, every day before using it). Are there other precautions that I should be taking in a K-Series Seven?

 

Check for leaks in cooling system particularly near club foot /head interface

 

Leaks must be found and Coolant replaced [not with water] also all air removed

 

4) Are there preventative modifications available to decrease the chances of HGF?

Deck the block and improve liner heights also replace crap plastic head dowels with steel [they will be supplied with any new gasket]

 

5) Am I'm being over sensitive? I'd really appreciate any positive feedback that anyone can give about the K-Series Sevens.

 

Not really BUT I've owned a K for over a decade with NO HGF

😬

No real problem BUT if your planning on DTHTB for inlet have you thought about exhaust They go hand in hand NO point in trying to improve gas flow in if it can't get out And you will need an Emerald remap afterwards.

It's the short answer you can't as they are not torqued in first place just think about it they are stretch bolts. you don't have a final torque figure. 😬

Emerald is programmable for in and out

check location of gear box in tunnel might be something touching

Which engine???/?

You are probably aware that the MT have appealed for Tech items for LF so there is a great opportunity. It would have to be written with NO criticism or apportionment of Blame to CC but as a maintenance check item. With lots of pictures showing owners what to look for and photos of the removal and replacement procedure. This would reach every member of the club, and would not attract any negative interest against the Club from CC. 😶‍🌫️

So how about it Ian your in best position for such a project and have the literary prowess to so do??? 😬

I think the most annoying aspect is that a member was summonsed and found guilty of careless driving as a result of a Tube failure [which can be catastrophic if it happens as you hit a bump at speed.] Mine certainly went that way and put me in the ditch BUT I was lucky as it was an empty road, In traffic the result could be nasty.

I can understand CC keeping a low profile after all most failures are age related and well outside any warranty there where thousands of cars fitted with the unbuttressed tubes so the expense could have very very bad consequences for such a small manufacturer and I suppose if driven very carefully some tubes may last the distance. But as time progresses we are seeing more and more on this forum and obviously have no idea how many are failing elsewhere with folk who have no idea of the history and presume it's an isolated incident. I'm on my third tube now as after my original failure CC admitted that the replacement batch where all faulty and BRUCE had to replace all of them. ☹️

From what you've described DVA will have removed the IACV [it can be fitted at cost] BUT without it getting enough air at Idle via throttle stop screws cab be problematic at full running temp, as speed will then be too high. Speak to Dave he is a very reasonable guy, and I'm very very sure he'll sort you out. Most Ks on after-market TBs have no IACV so there has to be a compromise. 😶‍🌫️

Under heavy competition use The internal pump is marginal The Pace 3 stage pump is adjustable and can deliver more oil than you will ever need I've been on a Pace for about 7 yrs and never lost a belt despite very heavy trans-continental touring and numerous track days I'm sure there are others with opposing views But yer pays yer money Only caveat if you ever want to trade car in to Caterham DONT fit a Pace. 😬

Ditch the foam no matter what way you use the car. The foam will not stop surge on track days and is crap at removing air If your serious about Track use Dry sump it or at least fit an Apollo.I can find dozens of references to problems with Foam in theses forums and NOT One to a problem with NOT having Foam. Dave Andrews is one of the most respected folk who contributes here on the K series His advice Always Get rid of the Foam. I removed mine at the first service and my K is over 13yrs old. 😬

Check level with engine running . It should just be below top baffle to allow baffle to do its job of removing air properly.

If it is a statutory requirement, please could you quote or direct me to the relevant statute?

Brilliant i've been plugging this line for ages It's the one question DVLA hate as so much of what they do and ask for is Policy and Policy has no bearing in Law without Statute.

Keep it up chaps always be polite but be firm in your request they have NO Option but to back down. 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬

No it's miles away from anywhere BUT if you post your location I'm very sure the POBC will find someone close who's done it before and will help.

It has always been possible to recalibrate the Mems, but not in the way you would program an after market ECU and only with specific knowledge and hardware. The SS calibration can be applied to an ECU by someone with the right equipment, however, altering or remapping the ECU on the fly is not so easy.

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From same thread comment by DVA

 

Mems are NOT reprogrammable in same way Emerald are.

Unless you happen to be on Rover Development Team 😬

Use everything of old one Tube can be changed in about 2hrs Biggest job is relocating Brake pipes [you will need new rivets] when mine failed I got a replacement from CC then 1month later they did a recall and I had to change it again . I changed a few others since then It becomes very easy and a doodle 😶‍🌫️.

Anyone got a guide to stripping and cleaning / re-greasing the solenoid on a Brise starter?

 

Ahmmm wouldnt recommend greasing it at all just strip and clean AFAIK Grease is NOT needed in a Brise unit

 

You can see why last week I was so annoyed about the article in Low flying I somehow think this message is NOT getting across I removed foam from my engine many years ago But admittedly eventually converted to a Dry Sump

99% of cars are designed with a 50Kg nose weight recommendation I am well used to setting up boat trailers for customers Simply set a pair of scales under the jockey wheel with the drawbar at hitch height, adjust the load position to give the desired result. The difference is remarkable and she will tow like a dream