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blueyedbiker

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Posts posted by blueyedbiker

  1. 2 pairs of springs;

    6" x 80mm o.d 450lb (look unused) and 7" x 80mm o.d 350lb (few surface marks).

    Nominal donation to the charity plus postage or collect near Beaconsfield.

  2. During a garage clear out I've come across a X Flow crankshaft with some surface rust on the bearing faces so they would need to be ground down.  With a digital vernier caliper so not entirely accurate the diameters come out at Mains 53.49 - 53.56 and big ends 48.69 - 48.74.  Would this be usable or is it now an attractive door stop?

    Thanks.

  3. Thanks Jonathan, in order;

    And to you!

    2000 X Flow, De dion

    Separate

    Yes (ish) and available

    Yes

    Yes

    Jim Whiting went over it to make sure it was screwed together properly (it is) and replaced a faulty hazard warning switch

    Bonkers mad week ahead so it will be a while before I can look at it.

    Again, thanks JK.

  4. The red ignition light doesn't come on when the ignition is turned on, apart from a dodgy lamp, any suggestions as to where to start looking for the fault and any potential problems running it like it is?  Auto electrics not one of my strong points.

    Ta.

  5. Re #32, it's interesting what the new normal is, rather like red wine.  Back in the day 12% was "about right", in the Rothschild museum up at Mentmore there's a display of all the Mouton Rothschild labels back over the last century or so, most of them 11 1/2 - 12% until the recent vintages where it gets up to 13%.  These days it's rare to come across any red wine less than 13%.

    Same with 7's, the old supersprint spec with a 135bhp Kent or twin cam was deemed to be "about right".  How tastes change.

  6. As in #4, extra horses rarely makes the car go any faster, it just loads up other parts of the drive train which might not be up to it and simply changing one component can highlight deficiencies elsewhere but if it’s serious top trumps down the pub you’re after and you have deep pockets, go ahead, spend and enjoy!

    If you just want the car to go faster there are much cheaper, more effective ways of going about it, cheapest of all is to learn to drive it properly, first stop is Carroll Smith’s “Drive to win”, borrow my copy, it won’t cost you a bean.

    Next sort out the tyre pressures, the difference is huge.

    If you’re ready to start spending, a decent chassis set up to maximise what you’ve already got is next, and if you can afford it, put some decent dampers on it, the best ones you can afford or get the existing ones serviced.

    For racing or serious track day amusement beef up the brakes or even just optimise the pads you’re using.

    Don’t know what diff you’re using but going down to a 3.9 gives the car extra zip.

    For me, only when all the above is ticked would I even consider touching the engine.

  7. A problem with the Jag transmission, it's an XK, which defaults from automatic to manual of its own accord.  The "cancellation module" has been replaced but the fault persists.  It appears to be related to turning the steering wheel, mostly to the right but not always and the paddles are working properly so it's not being caused by inadvertent catching of the paddles.

    Any suggestions?

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